ok my temp gauge is almost touching the redline before its critical and would over heat,i thought i fixed the problem,i completely flushed the radiator and put on a new thermostat,mixed a 60/40 water/antifreeze solution. the guage is about an 1/8th of an inch until it hits the red. what the hell is going on? my radiator is fine and so is the water pump. could the fan or the fan clutch be going out, the fan doesnt spin to freely but i dont know how freely it should spin. if its more than that im going back to pistons cause i know if i overheat it once the entire motor could be fucked. i really need some help, tommorow im ordering a electric fan from british victoria. when i cruis really slow the temp goes about halfway down on the gauge which is almost normal so im hoping its just the fan and the radiator fluid paths inside the rotor housing arnt plugged up or something, anyone???????????????? forgot to mention its a 88 gxl with 70,000 miles n/a 5 speed if that helps any?





waste the p.o.s. hondas,seriously! :teufel: :newburn: :thefinger: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/devil.gif :thefinger:

After you changed T-Stat, Did you bleed the system?

bleed the system? how do you do that? bleed the radiator system? i dont understand ive never had to do that b4?

If there is air in the system it could cause you to overheat. Bleeding the system (kinda like bleeding brakes) eliminates the air in the system. I am sure someone can give you a description on how to do it cause right now my brain isn't functioning and I forget. I think you just pop the draincock and let the air out. Kinda like flushing the system. Just keep starting the car to get the coolant flowing so the air gets moved around.

I believe the stock radiator has an air bleeder screw on the top. Having an air bubble will cause it to overheat.

What you should do to free up this air is to wait until the engine is cold then remove the refill cap, start the engine, while the engine is running add coolant to keep it full. The air should come out. In the mean time you could remove the bleed plug on the radiator inlet to let air out from this part and screw it back. Have somebody to keep an eye on the gauge. Let it run until the coolant level stop changing and there is no air coming out. Before stopping the engine, put the refill cap back on and always keep coolant in the reservoir since it would suck air up again when cooling down. :thumbs-up:



You shouldn't have any problem if you follow this procedure. If you still get overheating I would check back the thermostat if I were you, you could have placed it on the wrong side, it happens sometimes by careless mistake. BTW I hope you put a OEM thermostat. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...lookaround.gif



Hey, don't worry there are piston engines more complicated than this to get the air out of the system. :lachuh:

and you might as welll remove that fan and get a fiero 5 blade electric fan....I installed mine this weekend and my temp never reached the half way mark

I still have the stock thermostatic fan and my temperature never move more than 2 needle width even when I beat on it. When I bought the car 12 years ago, I thought the temperature was too low so I put a new aftermarket thermostat but the temperature started climbing everytime I pushed the gas pedal for too long. I then tried another one, same result. So I bought Mazda thermostat, the temperature has always been stable ever since and never reached near half way mark in the worst cases.



BTW I personally think a mechanical thermostatic fan is far more reliable than an electric fan. :director:

It could always be the interior temperature gage on the dash. i dont think mazda is all that well known for their electronics, expecially considering my stereo has a tendency to come on and off even when the car is turned off and no key in the ignition. I had that problem after my engine was rebuilt. the radiator was replaced, along with hoses and the thermostat. nothing worked until the dash was replaced. Now my car never reads above 1/2 even with the AC on. My car also lost about 20K miles. :lachuh:



to check to make sure the gage is reading right, use an external temp sensor (senses the temp of the engine) and compare it to mazda's required "HOT" temp. If it's way below it and the gage is reading hot, the gage is wrong. This is what my mechanic (Tito from Alamo Rotary) did.

The temperature sensor should have about 155 ohms when the needle indicates "C" (120'F) and about 12 ohms when indicates "H" (265'F) so if you want to know if it's only your temp. sensor then replace the sensor with a 100-ohm resistor connected between the sensor plug and the ground, the meter should indicate about the same as normal temp. or a little less.