ok my temp gauge is almost touching the redline before its critical and would over heat,i thought i fixed the problem,i completely flushed the radiator and put on a new thermostat,mixed a 60/40 water/antifreeze solution. the guage is about an 1/8th of an inch until it hits the red. what the hell is going on? my radiator is fine and so is the water pump. could the fan or the fan clutch be going out, the fan doesnt spin to freely but i dont know how freely it should spin. if its more than that im going back to pistons cause i know if i overheat it once the entire motor could be fucked. i really need some help, tommorow im ordering a electric fan from british victoria. when i cruis really slow the temp goes about halfway down on the gauge which is almost normal so im hoping its just the fan and the radiator fluid paths inside the rotor housing arnt plugged up or something, anyone???????????????? forgot to mention its a 88 gxl with 70,000 miles n/a 5 speed if that helps any?





waste the p.o.s. hondas,seriously! :teufel: :newburn: :thefinger: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/devil.gif :thefinger:

After you changed T-Stat, Did you bleed the system?

bleed the system? how do you do that? bleed the radiator system? i dont understand ive never had to do that b4?

If there is air in the system it could cause you to overheat. Bleeding the system (kinda like bleeding brakes) eliminates the air in the system. I am sure someone can give you a description on how to do it cause right now my brain isn't functioning and I forget. I think you just pop the draincock and let the air out. Kinda like flushing the system. Just keep starting the car to get the coolant flowing so the air gets moved around.

I believe the stock radiator has an air bleeder screw on the top. Having an air bubble will cause it to overheat.

What you should do to free up this air is to wait until the engine is cold then remove the refill cap, start the engine, while the engine is running add coolant to keep it full. The air should come out. In the mean time you could remove the bleed plug on the radiator inlet to let air out from this part and screw it back. Have somebody to keep an eye on the gauge. Let it run until the coolant level stop changing and there is no air coming out. Before stopping the engine, put the refill cap back on and always keep coolant in the reservoir since it would suck air up again when cooling down. :thumbs-up:



You shouldn't have any problem if you follow this procedure. If you still get overheating I would check back the thermostat if I were you, you could have placed it on the wrong side, it happens sometimes by careless mistake. BTW I hope you put a OEM thermostat. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...lookaround.gif



Hey, don't worry there are piston engines more complicated than this to get the air out of the system. :lachuh:

and you might as welll remove that fan and get a fiero 5 blade electric fan....I installed mine this weekend and my temp never reached the half way mark

I still have the stock thermostatic fan and my temperature never move more than 2 needle width even when I beat on it. When I bought the car 12 years ago, I thought the temperature was too low so I put a new aftermarket thermostat but the temperature started climbing everytime I pushed the gas pedal for too long. I then tried another one, same result. So I bought Mazda thermostat, the temperature has always been stable ever since and never reached near half way mark in the worst cases.



BTW I personally think a mechanical thermostatic fan is far more reliable than an electric fan. :director:

It could always be the interior temperature gage on the dash. i dont think mazda is all that well known for their electronics, expecially considering my stereo has a tendency to come on and off even when the car is turned off and no key in the ignition. I had that problem after my engine was rebuilt. the radiator was replaced, along with hoses and the thermostat. nothing worked until the dash was replaced. Now my car never reads above 1/2 even with the AC on. My car also lost about 20K miles. :lachuh:



to check to make sure the gage is reading right, use an external temp sensor (senses the temp of the engine) and compare it to mazda's required "HOT" temp. If it's way below it and the gage is reading hot, the gage is wrong. This is what my mechanic (Tito from Alamo Rotary) did.

The temperature sensor should have about 155 ohms when the needle indicates "C" (120'F) and about 12 ohms when indicates "H" (265'F) so if you want to know if it's only your temp. sensor then replace the sensor with a 100-ohm resistor connected between the sensor plug and the ground, the meter should indicate about the same as normal temp. or a little less.

Out of curousity, how are you positive the radiator is good? Did you take it out and have it cleaned and flow tested? Your water pump may also be no good even though its not leaking. Ive had 2 cars in the past, both piston engines, give me similar problems, they would run hot only when driving, and not idling or slower driving. So it meant that the fan which dis-engages at higher speed was no longer keeping the car cool. On my truck, it turned out to be the radiator, my stock one was fine, in the sense that it wasnt leaking and it flowed good, but being as the truck originally came with a V-6, and now it has a AMC 360 in it, it wasnt cooling enough, the thing wouldnt over heat, but it would run too warm on the highway, or any steady driving over 45-55 mph or so. Is your car stock? Because if its not, the radiator may be the culprit. The other car drove me so damm crazy, I also went through the basics, and still it ran hot. It turned out to be the water pump, it wasnt leaking, but the impeller inside had gone to ****. You could try grabbing the pulley on the front of the pump, and see if you can wiggle it up and down. If your pump is real old, they arent that much money, and you may want to change it if all else fails. Unless its a air problem, then all this typing was a waste, lol. Oh- then there was this time on 2 seperate Trans-Ams I had, where I ripped the spoiler off under the car, that caused both of them to run hot as well because it wasnt sucking air into the engine compartment anymore. Also- do you still have your fan shroud??

Take your car in and have it tested! You'll pull your hair out replacing this and that to no avail if you have coolant leaking into the motor. They can test your coolant for the presence of exhaust.



Unless you get a V-10 or V12 in your next car... you will certainly miss the smooth power of the Rotary. I still kick myself and wish I would have never gotten rid of my R-100 for a boinger.

ok today i was drving home and the temp was about 3/4 the way up and before i knew it the coolant alram went off and all i herd was a bang,bang,bang sound comng from under the hood of my car! what the %$#(* the mecanic told me it was the normal range to operate in guess the guy was wrong. so i had it towed backa t about 11:00 at night. i still dont understand what is wrong. i know the radiator is fine because i flushed it completely and water flowed through it like it should,i know what im talking about,i bledd the radiator 4 ******* times the oter night to no prevail and added a new thermostat that engages 15 degrees cooler and bought a new radiator cap and put in prolong additive with te radiator fluid. i swear to god im going back to pistons,im getting so close,piece







waste those p.o.s. honda's!!!!!!!!seriously!!!!! :teufel: :thefinger: :newburn: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR :thefinger:

Do you really think those problems can't be found on pistons? BTW what was that bang-bang noise anyway? If your coolant level light is coming on and off, it means there's air in the radiator. I don't know what's the problem but I've never had any problem bleeding the air out of my engine for 12 years. And temp range of operation is quarter to half at most in the worst case. Consider replacing the water pump if you're 100% sure of the rad and thermostat. You could also check the temperature of the oil cooler, the bypass valve may be stuck. but I don't think it would give this huge effect.

There are only so many things that can cause overheating.. sounds like you covered most of them...but only by taking the top off and actually looking into the core of the radiator can you be sure it is flowing porperly. My old 12a had a internal coolant problem, blow by into the combustion chamber of the front rotor....that was causing my overheating and loss of coolant problem...kissed that motor goodby.. :madgo: Good luck... :thumbs-up:

I think you could be right, in that case the air is coming from a combustion chamber and it should have some trace of combustion residue floating in the coolant and even smelling weird. That would explain alot.



Good luck! :thumbs-up:

Yep same as a bad head gasket in a boinger...runs hot and fouls the coolant. if it gets bad enough it will blow coolant out of the overflow jug when it overpressurizes the system. But I would check the radiator first.... :dontgetit: