2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Iats? Do I Need It?

Old Sep 8, 2003 | 09:35 AM
  #11  
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Yes you can remove those if you want, just have to raise you idle to around 1000rpms to compesnate for the electrical loads w/o the Bac.

The air intake temp sensor is right below the bac, little 2 prong connector attached to the sensor..
Old Sep 8, 2003 | 09:36 AM
  #12  
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Cool, thanks! I was thinking after I posted the pic that the little sensor in the DC is NOT the thing I was talking about with the tube connected to it.. jesus
Old Sep 8, 2003 | 01:22 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Sep 8 2003, 07:35 AM
Yes you can remove those if you want, just have to raise you idle to around 1000rpms to compesnate for the electrical loads w/o the Bac.

The air intake temp sensor is right below the bac, little 2 prong connector attached to the sensor..
If you remove the AWS, but not the BAC, and just route that airtube right to the BAC, it should't affect your idle, right? Just wouldn't get the rev when you start up?



Trying to keep this all straight

The AWS controls the 3000rpm rev at startup, then drops it to 1500rpm. The thermowax controls the slow 1500-800 rpm drop as it warms up.

If you remove the thermowax and AWS, leaving the BAC installed, you will get startup at low idle, and it will stay there all the time, right? Let it idle for a minute, then drive sanely for a few, and you're fine?



My idle is so goofy right now, I'm in the mood to do anything that will give me a constant idle that I can tweak
Old Sep 8, 2003 | 01:24 PM
  #14  
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You won't need to raise your idle if you keep the bac, fc maniac wants to get rid of the little pipe back there..
Old Sep 8, 2003 | 05:03 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Sep 8 2003, 02:24 PM
You won't need to raise your idle if you keep the bac, fc maniac wants to get rid of the little pipe back there..
Yeah, the car already idles at 750 right from start up since TB mod so I only want to keep the BAC and remove that AWS and metal pipe. I'd remove the BAC too but I do get some idle/voltage drop issues as it is when I turn on the headlights.
Old Sep 8, 2003 | 07:02 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by FCmaniac' date='Sep 8 2003, 10:03 PM
Yeah, the car already idles at 750 right from start up since TB mod so I only want to keep the BAC and remove that AWS and metal pipe. I'd remove the BAC too but I do get some idle/voltage drop issues as it is when I turn on the headlights.
thats because of the underdrive pulleys.
Old Sep 10, 2003 | 02:27 PM
  #17  
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One more thing on this.. I'm ripping out the AWS solenoid and that metal tube and capping the intake pipe nipple. What about the BAC? Doesn't it need that vacuum pipe to function right? All I want to keep now is the BAC.
Old Sep 10, 2003 | 02:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by FCmaniac' date='Sep 10 2003, 12:27 PM
One more thing on this.. I'm ripping out the AWS solenoid and that metal tube and capping the intake pipe nipple. What about the BAC? Doesn't it need that vacuum pipe to function right? All I want to keep now is the BAC.
You really hate that tube don't you?

I guess you could run a long rubber line from the intake all the way to the BAC, but it'll be cleaner with that pipe...but yes, the BAC needs that intake air to function (it's not vacuum). From what I understand, it's a solinoid valve that adds more or loess extra air into the intake based on the modulation to stabilize the idle. The electric part controls the idle, but you need that extra air to compensate, since it doesn't control the TB (basically, you could run the entire car with no TB, and a giant BAC)
Old Sep 10, 2003 | 03:51 PM
  #19  
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the bac takes metered air from in front of the tb to after it. if you dont use the tube it will be a big vacuum leak



mike
Old Sep 10, 2003 | 05:07 PM
  #20  
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screw it then, I'll deal with the tube!
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