Sounds like a stuck thermostat was the origional problem, would ATF be worth a try?

change the thermostat, no water in the block, the rad is boiling...

Now its seized?



I was reading when you said the car radiator was cold and the car was hot..





**** You have alor of problems...



You need to really take it to a Rotary shop in your area..

So these guessing games will stop..and take it to someone who knows about them ..not Joe Blows gas station..

I got rotarychainsaw mixed with the guy who posted this

Let us know what happens when you change the thermostat. I would buy an OE one from the dealer. I would also drain whatever fluid is left out of the block and start over. Don't forget to remove the air bleeder plug on the side of the radiator. I am not sure how much a water pump will run ya, but you could change that also and see what happens. If you're coolant system is still puking then I guess a new engine might not be a bad idea. If you decide to build on your own you can borrow the video tape, it was very helpful to me. Two good places to get rebuilt engines are Atkinsrotary and Pineappleracing, which happen to be fairly close by. Good luck.

thanks isamu, actually the water pump is BRAND new, that's what I narrowed it down to is the thermo, and I'll be removing that today. Just to tell you, the reason my car won't turn over anymore, it's not a siezed engine its a dead battery..... haha I was so intent on figuring out mechanical problems that I didn't even notice that none of my gauge or dome lights would turn on. figures. I deffinetly will keep everyone posted though!!

Take a whiff of your coolant. Does it smell like exhaust?

I would pull the plugs and see if it will crank over. Might be hydrolocked (Water in the combustion chamber). Make SURE you pull the EFI fuse or fuel could squirt out and start your car on fire (been there and done that... not fun (It wasn't a Mazda but a Porsche I had with mechincal injection).



I agree, do not drive it!

Definitly the thermostat, you can take it completly out to test it, but you will want to put a new one in.. There is a small water bypass located behind the thermostat that allows water to bypass the radiator when the stat is closed. when it opens it also closes this bypass forcing the water to go threw the radiator... Anyway your fix shouldn't cost you more than $15 unless you've driven it alot overheated, then you may have bearing problems and scored rotor houshing...

Well I took out my thermo, and tried, then I put a new thermo in and tried, and it doesn't start any better, the only thing I noticed was that it is running a whole lot cooler than it origionally was. So back to square one, anyone have any ideas? Comments? Questions?



Dragon, is there a good way to check for the other things you mentioned like scored rotor housings, etc? What do you think the cause for it to have such a trouble starting is? It seems to start immediatly when I leave it over night, or if I try to start it immediatly after I shut it down. If I leave it sitting after running it though I usually have to compression start it. Ideas? If I take out my FI breaker and let the rotor spin a couple times, then pop it back in and full throttle it at start it will start about 50/50 to 30/70 percent of the time. (thinking about other telltale syndromes) The coolant low warning light comes on just about every 5 minutes, but after I took out my thermo it stopped for almost 15 minutes, but then started coming on every minute to thirty seconds. I really can't think of anything else that immediatly comes to mind. Do you have any questions, I'm positive I can answer them! Thanks everbody for the continuing help, it really is much appreciated!