I love these...
09-08-2007, 03:20 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mangaf, Kuwait
Posts: 147
got bored, did the rats nest removal via rotary resurrection's website, everything went A-ok till I tried to start it. damn.
while I was in there I cleaned a metric-***-ton of gunk out of my throttle body, auxillary runners, and actuators. didnt have new gaskets, and I forgot to hook up the O2 sensor. car didnt start...
hooked up the o2 sensor, no star
did the egi fuse dance, no start.
threw some oil into the engine, no start... fouled plugs.
bought all new intake gaskets (but the lower intake manifold to engine gasket's top bolt holes dont line up, threw it on anyways because I thought it should still seal) new plugs, it starts (for no more than a second or two) and dies.
messed with the idle a bit (about a 1/2 turn) and it seems to help or hurt depending on how I'm adjusting it. planning on new O2 sensor and maf sensor tomorrow, probably do the TPS too while I'm at it (I have spares of all of these laying around) becuase I've had similar gripes when those werent hooked up before (start, sputter, die) figured it might be the same if they were bad.
noticed when I took the fuel rails off the first time (to do the rats nest removal) that fuel would drain from the lines, then stop comming out. when I took it all back apart again (to do the gasket job) it wouldn't quit spitting, like it was still under pressure! (maybe 2 or 3 psi) plugged the lines till I was dont with the new gasket job and hooked it back up. is that normal?
gotta cut this short here, gotta run to work.
any ideas? I'm sure I overlooked something durring the job...
while I was in there I cleaned a metric-***-ton of gunk out of my throttle body, auxillary runners, and actuators. didnt have new gaskets, and I forgot to hook up the O2 sensor. car didnt start...
hooked up the o2 sensor, no star
did the egi fuse dance, no start.
threw some oil into the engine, no start... fouled plugs.
bought all new intake gaskets (but the lower intake manifold to engine gasket's top bolt holes dont line up, threw it on anyways because I thought it should still seal) new plugs, it starts (for no more than a second or two) and dies.
messed with the idle a bit (about a 1/2 turn) and it seems to help or hurt depending on how I'm adjusting it. planning on new O2 sensor and maf sensor tomorrow, probably do the TPS too while I'm at it (I have spares of all of these laying around) becuase I've had similar gripes when those werent hooked up before (start, sputter, die) figured it might be the same if they were bad.
noticed when I took the fuel rails off the first time (to do the rats nest removal) that fuel would drain from the lines, then stop comming out. when I took it all back apart again (to do the gasket job) it wouldn't quit spitting, like it was still under pressure! (maybe 2 or 3 psi) plugged the lines till I was dont with the new gasket job and hooked it back up. is that normal?
gotta cut this short here, gotta run to work.
any ideas? I'm sure I overlooked something durring the job...
09-09-2007, 12:21 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mangaf, Kuwait
Posts: 147
right, the AFM, etc is hooked up now. I just meant that in the past when i was poking around under the hood I'd end up disconnecting them for whatever reason and the car would start, rev, die. thats why I'm trying them now for troubleshooting.
but no, I cant keep it alive with gas. it'll rev, but It seems to shut down every time after two seconds. like you turned the key off.
but no, I cant keep it alive with gas. it'll rev, but It seems to shut down every time after two seconds. like you turned the key off.
09-10-2007, 11:57 AM
#4
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 959
Sounds like a vac leak to me... those gaskets are sensitive sometimes and you got to be sure the mating surfaces are clean.
Here's my thought though - why would you adjust the idle screw? It was running and idling before you did all this work, so what makes you want to start adjusting things instead of focusing on the parts you did mess with? Not trying to bash on you, but debugging issues becomes increasingly harder the more things you start messing with...
Here's my thought though - why would you adjust the idle screw? It was running and idling before you did all this work, so what makes you want to start adjusting things instead of focusing on the parts you did mess with? Not trying to bash on you, but debugging issues becomes increasingly harder the more things you start messing with...
09-10-2007, 11:30 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mangaf, Kuwait
Posts: 147
Idle screw: last step of the rats nest removal says to bump it up a bit and adjust when warm.
thought about the vac leak, I had the surfaces clean but I guess it wouldnt hurt to throw a bead of RTV on em huh? I'm still tinkering though, still got a little more troubleshooting to do before I start to panic.
quote of the week: "if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
thought about the vac leak, I had the surfaces clean but I guess it wouldnt hurt to throw a bead of RTV on em huh? I'm still tinkering though, still got a little more troubleshooting to do before I start to panic.
quote of the week: "if it aint broke, fix it till it is"
09-11-2007, 02:56 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 959
IMHO there are no real "steps" to the removal as it is all going to be affected by your car, your climate, etc.
The idle adjust screw is pretty sensitive too, I would go back and check the mating surfaces of all your gaskets, and adjust your TPS.
You can use starter fluid (ethanol) to locate a vac leak...just have a friend get the car to hold a certain RPM as low as it will go and spray around the manifolds until you pinpoint the leak.
The idle adjust screw is pretty sensitive too, I would go back and check the mating surfaces of all your gaskets, and adjust your TPS.
You can use starter fluid (ethanol) to locate a vac leak...just have a friend get the car to hold a certain RPM as low as it will go and spray around the manifolds until you pinpoint the leak.
09-12-2007, 12:31 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mangaf, Kuwait
Posts: 147
car dont run long enough to do the starter fluid trick. sorry man. like I said though, more troublesooting to come. I'm working 6-12's right now, so getting the time to work on my car is kinda hard. tommorrow (before work) I think I'll throw some sealant on those gaskets. if the gasket sealant doesnt work, and the sensors (mentioned above) dont work I'll start to panic. till then.... wish me luck (I'm almost outta beer)
hope I dont have to resort to my whiskey stash
hope I dont have to resort to my whiskey stash
09-20-2007, 02:03 PM
#9
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mangaf, Kuwait
Posts: 147
shoot its getting sporty...
update:
threw some sealant on the gaskets (lower intake manifold to engine, upper intake manifold to lower, and lower intake to dynamic chamber) double checked all my vacuum lines and caps, all appear to be set and not leaking (with the exception of the four oil injection vac lines, which I'll replace here in a few)
I was thinking it might be a faulty or disconnected sensor, as they tend to cause similar problems so I went and checked al of them. I metered the tps and it checks ok, brand new O2 sensor, I swapped the MAF with a known good (I dont know how to meter those) and the MAP meters good at atmospheric pressure (3.5 ohms)
am I missing something here, I'm starting to get doubts here (not to mention I'm getting sick of driving my truck)
the only other thing I could think of is I didnt replace the BAC valve gasket when I put on my (home made) blank off plate (I used alluminum)
it'll start after cranking for a long while, I can strait rev (like a vrooOOOM to 2.5k rpms) for a two count (one... two...) then it the car shuts down. on the down stroke (down from the 2.5k RPMs) I can pump the gas, let off the gas, or yell and I cant get it to hit again untill I crank it a bunch more.
I tried reconnecting the electrical goodies I took out BAC, etc and it did the same thing.
maybe an ecu relay or something somewhere not kicking over?
one320B:
how do you adjust the TPS, the chiltons says 1k ohm closed throttle, 5k ohms at WOT. when I metered it, there was no inbetween, it was just closed (1k) and open (5k)
update:
threw some sealant on the gaskets (lower intake manifold to engine, upper intake manifold to lower, and lower intake to dynamic chamber) double checked all my vacuum lines and caps, all appear to be set and not leaking (with the exception of the four oil injection vac lines, which I'll replace here in a few)
I was thinking it might be a faulty or disconnected sensor, as they tend to cause similar problems so I went and checked al of them. I metered the tps and it checks ok, brand new O2 sensor, I swapped the MAF with a known good (I dont know how to meter those) and the MAP meters good at atmospheric pressure (3.5 ohms)
am I missing something here, I'm starting to get doubts here (not to mention I'm getting sick of driving my truck)
the only other thing I could think of is I didnt replace the BAC valve gasket when I put on my (home made) blank off plate (I used alluminum)
it'll start after cranking for a long while, I can strait rev (like a vrooOOOM to 2.5k rpms) for a two count (one... two...) then it the car shuts down. on the down stroke (down from the 2.5k RPMs) I can pump the gas, let off the gas, or yell and I cant get it to hit again untill I crank it a bunch more.
I tried reconnecting the electrical goodies I took out BAC, etc and it did the same thing.
maybe an ecu relay or something somewhere not kicking over?
one320B:
how do you adjust the TPS, the chiltons says 1k ohm closed throttle, 5k ohms at WOT. when I metered it, there was no inbetween, it was just closed (1k) and open (5k)
09-20-2007, 02:10 PM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Mangaf, Kuwait
Posts: 147
forgot: is there any way to meter out an O2 sensor (with a multimeter) a certain resistance value it should have going through it, or a certain voltage it should get after the car starts? (maybe 12vdc) if there is supposed to be voltage I didnt get it last time I tried to start my car. anyone know what pin it is on the ecu?
I only ask because when I got my exhaust I broke the stock o2 senor off and the car did the same thing with it disconnected... maybe I broke the wire this time.
I only ask because when I got my exhaust I broke the stock o2 senor off and the car did the same thing with it disconnected... maybe I broke the wire this time.
