I Know Why My Car Sucks.
04-25-2004, 10:30 AM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,591
Im not a bumb *** LOL
My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.
I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.
But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.
But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.
My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.
I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.
But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.
But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.
04-25-2004, 11:06 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Woodstock, Georgia
Posts: 583
Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' date='Apr 25 2004, 10:30 AM
Im not a bumb *** LOL
My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.
I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.
But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.
But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.
My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.
I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.
But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.
But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.
Im not a bumb ***
Oh, yes you are.
LoL. :P
04-25-2004, 02:28 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville KY 40299
Posts: 344
Originally Posted by ioTus' date='Apr 25 2004, 03:10 AM
Trailing plugs do help complete the combustion. THey do add a very small ammount of extra power per stroke. And they do definately make the car run smoother (i'm guessing their main purpose)
When Im saying its there for emissions, thats the same as saying "to complete combustion". Trailing spark adds virtually no power. You might pick it up on a sensitive dyno, but itd be small enough that it wouldnt even be a credible gain.
My car ran just as smooth without trailing ignition as it did with.
04-25-2004, 02:31 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville KY 40299
Posts: 344
Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' date='Apr 25 2004, 10:30 AM
Im not a bumb *** LOL
My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.
I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.
But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.
But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.
My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.
I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.
But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.
But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.
In the end, Im just talking about a technicality here. If switching ECU's fixes your problem, then just switch them out and call it a day.
04-25-2004, 02:34 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
I've driven with no trailing spark before, I removed the coil entirely when the car acted up on the way to work.
Absolutely no difference in driving.
But I was running stock ECU, stock manifolds, stock everything.
I'm sure if timed properly with an aftermarket ECU you could see a decent power gain between the lead and trailing spark.
Absolutely no difference in driving.
But I was running stock ECU, stock manifolds, stock everything.
I'm sure if timed properly with an aftermarket ECU you could see a decent power gain between the lead and trailing spark.
04-25-2004, 09:39 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 409
Originally Posted by adamlewis' date='Apr 25 2004, 11:28 AM
Have you ever driven your car without trailing spark?
When Im saying its there for emissions, thats the same as saying "to complete combustion". Trailing spark adds virtually no power. You might pick it up on a sensitive dyno, but itd be small enough that it wouldnt even be a credible gain.
My car ran just as smooth without trailing ignition as it did with.
When Im saying its there for emissions, thats the same as saying "to complete combustion". Trailing spark adds virtually no power. You might pick it up on a sensitive dyno, but itd be small enough that it wouldnt even be a credible gain.
My car ran just as smooth without trailing ignition as it did with.
and its not worth arguing you so i'm not going to.
04-25-2004, 10:09 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,591
Well I have also let the wire Arch over to my ground strap. And it fires for a second then it dies.
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>AND IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON THE TRAILING THE TACH STILL WORKS BECUASE IT DOES IT IN MY CAR.</span>
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>AND IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON THE TRAILING THE TACH STILL WORKS BECUASE IT DOES IT IN MY CAR.</span>
