Im not a bumb ass LOL



My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.



I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.



But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.



But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.

Oh, yes you are. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



LoL. :P

Apparently you can fine tune the timing difference with the leading and trailing with an aftermarket ECU to gain more power/torque.

Have you ever driven your car without trailing spark?



When Im saying its there for emissions, thats the same as saying "to complete combustion". Trailing spark adds virtually no power. You might pick it up on a sensitive dyno, but itd be small enough that it wouldnt even be a credible gain.

My car ran just as smooth without trailing ignition as it did with.

Nobody is saying youre a dumb ass. But this is how things work on your car. If youre trailing spark DOESNT work, your tach DOESNT work. Its just that simple. Have you thought maybe your spark checker is malfunctioning? I know its always hard for me to get an inductive timing light to work on my trailing plugs. Why dont you try pulling off the wire from the spark plug and let the wire arc to the chasis?



In the end, Im just talking about a technicality here. If switching ECU's fixes your problem, then just switch them out and call it a day.

I've driven with no trailing spark before, I removed the coil entirely when the car acted up on the way to work.



Absolutely no difference in driving.



But I was running stock ECU, stock manifolds, stock everything.



I'm sure if timed properly with an aftermarket ECU you could see a decent power gain between the lead and trailing spark.

Yup i have. Not as good acceleration, and the car ran a fair bit rougher.



and its not worth arguing you so i'm not going to.

Well I have also let the wire Arch over to my ground strap. And it fires for a second then it dies.



<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>AND IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON THE TRAILING THE TACH STILL WORKS BECUASE IT DOES IT IN MY CAR.</span>

LMAO now that shut everybody up https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

then you have more than one prob, the tach works off of the trailing coil. at least thats what everyone told me