I am not getting any spark from the trailing coils. It will fire really weak for a second at start up but as soon as the engine catches it stops spark. The ECU is fucked. I put in my friends 88 ECU in my car and the idel problem went away the trailing coils are getting beautiful spark, and i took it for a test drive and omg that pep it once had is back. I could even connect my pressure sensor and it wont flood. I need an ECU any one got a spare S4 ECU?

Right here man! N326 with your name on it!

If youre trailing coils werent firing, youre tach wouldnt work.

Aside from that, trailing coils are there for emissions. They serve no real purpose in making power or holding a steady idle.

Ever seen the inside of a rotor housing? The leading sprak hole looks like this -> O and the trailing spark hole looks like this -> .

I drove my car for a long time with no trailing spark and it didnt cause ANY drivability issues.



I think youre real problem lies somewhere else.

Glad to hear it man...

yeah for a while my trailings werent working and my tach would go off. no driveability probs though

thats understandable, but if using his buddie's ECU fixed his problem, then I guess he already said where the problem lies. The trailing coil issue is just secondary. maybe he meant the leading coils?



Anyway, glad to hear you've figured it out, hope you fix it soon.

If his leading coikl wasn't firing and only the trailings were, he would know it. When mine was doing that I couldnt get it up much past 3k.

My leading is firing but the spark sucks and the trailing is not firing at all. Mabey the trailing coil not firing may not cause driveability issues but if the ECU is fucked it would. And I think that the trailing coil is there to complete the combustion process but I could be wronge.



I have seen the L & T holes and there is a big size diffrence. Im telling you guys after i put on his ECU it felt like a brand new car. When I get the ECU im gonna put in a CraneCams HI6 Ignition to help out. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683473.gif

You would be wrong about that. Its for emissions. Just to clean up the tail end of unburnt hydrocarbons.



Also, Im not saying the ECU didnt fix your problem, and Im not telling you NOT to get a new one. All Im saying is if youre trailing plugs arent firing, youll have no tach ( Is your tach working? ). And I dont think that youre car is running crappy because of no trailing spark. Thats all.

Trailing plugs do help complete the combustion. THey do add a very small ammount of extra power per stroke. And they do definately make the car run smoother (i'm guessing their main purpose)

Im not a bumb ass LOL



My tach is working so I had no doubt that they where firing but I was pushing a loose trailing wire in and it came off And I noticed I did not get a nice jolt so i said WTF.



I took both trailing wires and hooked up a spark checker ( A screw type thing that has a ground wire on one end and a plug nipple on the other) I hooked it up and started the car and I noticed that there was only spark for a breife moment at start up then it cuts out.



But my tach still works after it cuts out. I have a push start button under the dash so i can see it and it only gets spark if the engine is cranking. after it catches it stops.



But im telling you with my boys EC it feels like it did when i first did the swap, engine smooth as a whistel, strong, like a new motor.

Oh, yes you are. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



LoL. :P

Apparently you can fine tune the timing difference with the leading and trailing with an aftermarket ECU to gain more power/torque.

Have you ever driven your car without trailing spark?



When Im saying its there for emissions, thats the same as saying "to complete combustion". Trailing spark adds virtually no power. You might pick it up on a sensitive dyno, but itd be small enough that it wouldnt even be a credible gain.

My car ran just as smooth without trailing ignition as it did with.

Nobody is saying youre a dumb ass. But this is how things work on your car. If youre trailing spark DOESNT work, your tach DOESNT work. Its just that simple. Have you thought maybe your spark checker is malfunctioning? I know its always hard for me to get an inductive timing light to work on my trailing plugs. Why dont you try pulling off the wire from the spark plug and let the wire arc to the chasis?



In the end, Im just talking about a technicality here. If switching ECU's fixes your problem, then just switch them out and call it a day.

I've driven with no trailing spark before, I removed the coil entirely when the car acted up on the way to work.



Absolutely no difference in driving.



But I was running stock ECU, stock manifolds, stock everything.



I'm sure if timed properly with an aftermarket ECU you could see a decent power gain between the lead and trailing spark.

Yup i have. Not as good acceleration, and the car ran a fair bit rougher.



and its not worth arguing you so i'm not going to.

Well I have also let the wire Arch over to my ground strap. And it fires for a second then it dies.



<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>AND IF THERE IS NO SPARK ON THE TRAILING THE TACH STILL WORKS BECUASE IT DOES IT IN MY CAR.</span>

LMAO now that shut everybody up https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

then you have more than one prob, the tach works off of the trailing coil. at least thats what everyone told me

Just a question, of the tach measures the amount of revolutions the eccentric shaft puts out, how does the trailing spark affect that measurement? Is it based on the amount of sparks per a certain time period?

I'm probably wrong but it would make sense to me if the tach in the car used the signal coming out of the CAS. I think if you use a 'testing' tach (one that isnt built into the car) thats when its connected to the trailing coil.

yeah w/out the trailing it runs a bit rougher.

I dont want to shut any one up but I have pulled the 2 trailing wires stuck my finger in them and they are not fireing. Yet my tach seems to work perfectly fine.



The ECU could be so fucked that it is making the car run rich and stall the eratic idel. And all these problems just started from one day to the next. Like I had the car ideling fine smooth and all turned off the car and when I turned it back on the car felt like ****. I think that is when the ECU went out.



But the ECU fixed it so "CollingRX7" got some money for the parts I need https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683329.gif

one other test you can try is hooking up a timing light to the trailing wire while the motor is running, the inductive pickup in the timing light will pick up the voltage traveling through the wire to the plug and cause it to strobe, no light, no spark to plug https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

Oh yeah. I forgot youve got one of those cars that goes against the entire way that all the FC's were built.



Im sorry.



From now on you should post that detail in your sig so that we can avoid mix ups like this in the future.

Dude relax..

Collin the dick head has a point.



SO THERE



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