Well after I was told me car started. I found that it really didn't start. So my mom went behind my back and set up and appointment at a local import shop that said they had a rotory specialist. Well today I towed my car down there (all the time with it in gear trying to start it). It was a no go, it got a lot louder when I had the gas depressed, and it was popping a lot, so I figure it was trying to start but it just couldn't.
But right now I have the car down there and they are going to be doing a check, and I am praying that they don't **** anything up. I still have no idea why it won't start. I have redone the CAS like 10 times. I checked the CAS resistance, set the TPS 3 times, adjusted the air screw on the TB. Checked the BACV valve reistance. Looked at the FSM wire diagrams to make sure that I had the fuel injectors wire on the right fuel injectors. It sucks. Plus this car had a new clutch, rebuilt engine, rebuild transmission, rebuild slave cylinder, brand new down pipe/pre-silencer/cat back, rebuilt fuel injectors, etc... And it still won't start https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR#>/11.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif |
thats wierd no matter whats wrong with it it should have started being towed
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did you ever check the timing
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My local import shop has a rotary specialist so why wouldn't yours.Import shops can take care of all imports.No rotary specialist could **** your **** up there a specialist.At least you'll get to the bottom of this mess and get it running but they could **** you over with the price $.
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Did you check the plugs? Got any spark..
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Originally Posted by 1BadassRevvin7' date='Dec 9 2003, 07:30 PM
My local import shop has a rotary specialist so why wouldn't yours.Import shops can take care of all imports.No rotary specialist could **** your **** up there a specialist.At least you'll get to the bottom of this mess and get it running but they could **** you over with the price $.
Make sure they contact you before they do any actual work for you to approve it. |
Originally Posted by Nemesis' date='Dec 9 2003, 05:56 PM
Just because they have the title "Rotary Specialist" doesn't mean they know what they are doing. Just that they are slightly more versed with rotary motors than the other mechanics there.
Make sure they contact you before they do any actual work for you to approve it. |
Originally Posted by 1BadassRevvin7' date='Dec 9 2003, 09:55 PM
to earn the title specialist you have to know what your doing or else you wouldn't be a specialist.But like Nemesis said make sure to have them call before they do anything to your car.
Probably not. j200pruf, take word of mouth before having someone work one your car. Know that the person that is working on your car KNOWS what they're doing by asking for references. There are many people around here that say they are "specialists", but theres only one that I would go to because of what people have said. Just my two cents... |
I think I need to drive up to Portland and look at this beast. PM me.
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My parents are kinda maid me an appointment, as they are a bit pissed that my car has been in their garage for the last year. And 88 I will be shooting you a PM shortly.
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You damn people need English lessons.
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Originally Posted by 88IntegraLS' date='Dec 9 2003, 09:50 PM
I think I need to drive up to Portland and look at this beast. PM me.
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Originally Posted by j200pruf' date='Dec 10 2003, 02:00 AM
My parents sort of made me an appointment. They are a bit pissed that my car has been in their garage for the last year. 88IntegraLS, I will be shooting you a PM shortly.
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Originally Posted by 13BAce' date='Dec 10 2003, 02:37 AM
You damn people need English lessons.
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Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Dec 10 2003, 12:54 PM
13BACE - Hows this?
Wtb-secondary fuel rail that except 1600s. |
Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Dec 10 2003, 12:54 PM
13BACE - Hows this?
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weird? u getting any fuel?
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Originally Posted by 13BAce' date='Dec 9 2003, 11:37 PM
You damn people need English lessons.
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Originally Posted by 88IntegraLS' date='Dec 10 2003, 03:41 PM
You need to have more orgasms bro, you are always so sour. Take some prozac already!
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Quit hijacking his thread. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683607.gif
Any word from the shop on what was wrong with the car? |
Originally Posted by 88IntegraLS' date='Dec 10 2003, 06:41 PM
You need to have more orgasms bro, you are always so sour. Take some prozac already!
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now its getting gay in here
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Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Dec 10 2003, 06:43 PM
Why?? You offering hand jobs??
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I wouldn't know what to do with his package if I were actually gay enough to imply that I wanted to fondle it with my hands. You queers, I meant that he needs to have more sex with hot women. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png
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Yeah...so uh...j200pruf, any word on your car?
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Originally Posted by 88IntegraLS' date='Dec 10 2003, 10:01 PM
I wouldn't know what to do with his package if I were actually gay enough to imply that I wanted to fondle it with my hands.
O.K. I am sorry for thread hijacking. I will stop now. Is the car still in your possesion j200pruf?? Do you have fuel pressure and/or spark? |
I got a call from the shop yesterday. They said they got my car to start after the spark plugs were changed and the CAS realigned(sp). They also informed me that I had 75psi on both rotors. But there was some bad news. They said that it ran like ****. Apparently it was knocking and vibrating really bad, bad enough that I wouldn't be able to drive it away. There specialist swapped the ECU from his car and said that it ran a little better, but still really shitty. They think that the rotors aren't properly installed, WTF!!! I am damn near positive they were put in right (the engine could be rotated by hand). And I never noticed a vibration or knock when I was towing it or cranking it over.
When I thought that I blew my old motor, it seems like it was running on only one rotor, and vibrating really bad, didn't remember it knocking though. I am thinking about finding another ECU, and try regrounding everything. Anyone have any more ideas |
75 psi is quite low, isn't it?
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Normally yes, but it is decent for a fresh rebuild.
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Originally Posted by j200pruf' date='Dec 11 2003, 03:02 PM
I got a call from the shop yesterday. They said they got my car to start after the spark plugs were changed and the CAS realigned(sp). They also informed me that I had 75psi on both rotors. But there was some bad news. They said that it ran like ****. Apparently it was knocking and vibrating really bad, bad enough that I wouldn't be able to drive it away. There specialist swapped the ECU from his car and said that it ran a little better, but still really shitty. They think that the rotors aren't properly installed, WTF!!! I am damn near positive they were put in right (the engine could be rotated by hand). And I never noticed a vibration or knock when I was towing it or cranking it over.
When I thought that I blew my old motor, it seems like it was running on only one rotor, and vibrating really bad, didn't remember it knocking though. I am thinking about finding another ECU, and try regrounding everything. Anyone have any more ideas |
Originally Posted by 13BAce' date='Dec 11 2003, 07:18 PM
How old is the gas?
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6 or so gallons of it is pretty damn old, but about 2 months ago I added 5 gallons of gas with a bottle of techron fuel cleaner. I sitll have a few wires to hunt down and fix(although they aren't ECU or runnign related), and some new stuff like my fuel filter and what not.
I also was wondering aobut my oil pan, my new motor that I rebuilt didn't have the same oil pan as the originall motor, instead of having 2 sensors it only has one, and I can't find any reason why they are different. |
I forgot to ask. Could I have been stupid enough to put the rotors in wrong enough that it would affect the timing, or is the shop as dumb as I though https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png
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Originally Posted by j200pruf' date='Dec 11 2003, 05:25 PM
Normally yes, but it is decent for a fresh rebuild.
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drain fuel
put new fuel filter in check timing and take it from there, as for the rest of your questions I cant quite help you there. |
there is a drain plug right on the gas tank by the way
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It could be bad vacuum leaks, etc.
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Originally Posted by j200pruf' date='Dec 12 2003, 01:43 AM
I forgot to ask. Could I have been stupid enough to put the rotors in wrong enough that it would affect the timing, or is the shop as dumb as I though https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/blink.png
you have compression, if it doesnt sound like a disaster during the compression test it should be fine internally. Look at the fuel/air/spark stuff, engine management related junk, vacuum leaks etc. |
Well I just picked up the car and spoke directly to the tech. He swears that all the sensors are good and that there is something internally wrong, making it knock and vibrate really bad. He said it seems like its running on one rotor.
It could be the apex seals, but if those were bad there wouldn't be uniform compression in the engine like there is know. End play, I checked that after teh second rebuild, right in the middle of spec, closer to the tight side. And looking at the paper is says internal issuse, timing is off, it also stated that my ECU is fucked(not in those words). |
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