how to remove some of your bushings
09-20-2006, 02:28 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 193
this is what i did to solve my problems
-front control arm D bushings-
okay here is what i did, i torched off the top part of rubber [by torching i mean letting the rubber catch of fire then leaving it on fire for abotu 10 min, smells like **** but it works]and cleaned it away with a piece of metal. cut the metal sleve that was in the middle in a swirl and rotated it off. on one of the control arms the rubber came with, on te other i had to melt it off. then i was able to press int eh polyurithane ones with just my weight.
a torch can be bought at your local hardware shop, i bought mine for abotu 12$ and it came with a schnozzle.
-Subframe & Differential Bushings-
The way that these are set in the car is that there is a metal sleve that caps the top of each of the mounts, and runs though the whole part of the rubber itself. instead of having to drill a thousand places, or use a sawzaw and cut some rubber out pry it out. first use a sawzaw (or hacksaw) to cut off the top most part of the rubber. after that where the two pieces of metal meet, make that line bigger. what this does is give the top most meatl some bit of extra space to move. then use a hammer and either a frikken strong old screw driver, or (what i used) an old chizel that i had laying around and and break the rustish seal between the top of the mount and the crown of the metal. then spray some GUNK, or WD40 into botht he top and botth of the mounts [not on the rubber but around the edges]. let it sit for abotu 2 min, then spray some more.
-Differential finish-
then flip the differential around and start hammering the chizel at the sleeve of the bushing. you will know it is the sleeve because it is metal, and the closest thing to the mount itself. it hsold pop off very shortly after quite a few whacks.
-Subframe Finish-
becuase the subframe has a collar on the bottom preventing you from using the differential technique you need to tie the subframe down, and have a strong (or fat) friend hold it in place. then you need to get some kind of tool to pry the bushing from the crown off. i used a piece of metal that is used to remove nails. then spary top and bottom of mount [after you notch, and break the top seal] with GUNK, or WD40. finally start prying away and boom it should come off.
finally, the 5/8ths hole that you need to drill out of your subframe and rear control arms.
[VERY DANGEROUS, DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU FULLY CAN TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR INJURIES]
alot of you said that i shouldn't do it myself and that it would look ugly. so i decided not to listen to you and go on ahead and do it anyways. a frind of mine had a 5/8th bit that was pretty dam nnew so we knew it was sharp. then took my trusty yellow electric drill and started drilling away. the trailing arms are pretty easy as the metal at that point is cast, but the metal holes on the subframe are rediculous.
==i HIGHLY suggest that you hold the drill with your left and press down with your right. that way if the bit does catch a burr it will slide out of your grip and not break your wrist. also it is a good idea to keep your knees out of harms way of the drill, as you can loose a knee cap if it bites. ==
none of us got hurt, but i just want to let you know that it is quite dangerous.
but hey, i was able to get all this done myself without the need of a press or any really fancy tools.
-front control arm D bushings-
okay here is what i did, i torched off the top part of rubber [by torching i mean letting the rubber catch of fire then leaving it on fire for abotu 10 min, smells like **** but it works]and cleaned it away with a piece of metal. cut the metal sleve that was in the middle in a swirl and rotated it off. on one of the control arms the rubber came with, on te other i had to melt it off. then i was able to press int eh polyurithane ones with just my weight.
a torch can be bought at your local hardware shop, i bought mine for abotu 12$ and it came with a schnozzle.
-Subframe & Differential Bushings-
The way that these are set in the car is that there is a metal sleve that caps the top of each of the mounts, and runs though the whole part of the rubber itself. instead of having to drill a thousand places, or use a sawzaw and cut some rubber out pry it out. first use a sawzaw (or hacksaw) to cut off the top most part of the rubber. after that where the two pieces of metal meet, make that line bigger. what this does is give the top most meatl some bit of extra space to move. then use a hammer and either a frikken strong old screw driver, or (what i used) an old chizel that i had laying around and and break the rustish seal between the top of the mount and the crown of the metal. then spray some GUNK, or WD40 into botht he top and botth of the mounts [not on the rubber but around the edges]. let it sit for abotu 2 min, then spray some more.
-Differential finish-
then flip the differential around and start hammering the chizel at the sleeve of the bushing. you will know it is the sleeve because it is metal, and the closest thing to the mount itself. it hsold pop off very shortly after quite a few whacks.
-Subframe Finish-
becuase the subframe has a collar on the bottom preventing you from using the differential technique you need to tie the subframe down, and have a strong (or fat) friend hold it in place. then you need to get some kind of tool to pry the bushing from the crown off. i used a piece of metal that is used to remove nails. then spary top and bottom of mount [after you notch, and break the top seal] with GUNK, or WD40. finally start prying away and boom it should come off.
finally, the 5/8ths hole that you need to drill out of your subframe and rear control arms.
[VERY DANGEROUS, DO NOT ATTEMPT UNLESS YOU FULLY CAN TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR INJURIES]
alot of you said that i shouldn't do it myself and that it would look ugly. so i decided not to listen to you and go on ahead and do it anyways. a frind of mine had a 5/8th bit that was pretty dam nnew so we knew it was sharp. then took my trusty yellow electric drill and started drilling away. the trailing arms are pretty easy as the metal at that point is cast, but the metal holes on the subframe are rediculous.
==i HIGHLY suggest that you hold the drill with your left and press down with your right. that way if the bit does catch a burr it will slide out of your grip and not break your wrist. also it is a good idea to keep your knees out of harms way of the drill, as you can loose a knee cap if it bites. ==
none of us got hurt, but i just want to let you know that it is quite dangerous.
but hey, i was able to get all this done myself without the need of a press or any really fancy tools.
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