How Long To Install Toe Steer Eliminators?
01-04-2005, 02:37 AM
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 203
Originally Posted by porsche4786' date='Jan 3 2005, 10:24 PM
Using an air powered impact gun and a 30 ton hydraulic press, I average 30 minutes or so per side.
01-04-2005, 01:44 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Took me 2 hours, but I used all hand tools, had to deal with seized rusted bolts, underpowered impact gun for axle lock nuts, and no press. I used a hacksaw, hammer, punch to remove the old toe eliminator bushings. I pressed new ones in with a dead blow hammer and c-clamp.
01-04-2005, 02:03 PM
#4
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Location: Tallahassee, FL
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Jan 4 2005, 02:44 PM
01-05-2005, 08:29 AM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
-you need to raise rear of car,
-take off both rear wheels
-blast brakes with brake cleaner and wear gloves
-take off both rear calipers and hang them with zip ties onto the spring without kinking any of the brake lines
-take off both rear rotors
-get 32 mm socket, impact gun good for atleast 240 ft-lbs in reverse
-remove the stake in the axle lock nuts
-remove the axle lock nuts
-push the 1/2 shafts in by finger or gently tap with a peice of wood and hammer
-undo the 3 bolts that hold the triaxial floating knuckle to the rear trailing control arms
-then remove the knucle with the hub still attached
-press out bushings
-clean area
-remove any burrs
-install new bushings with press/hammer/vise/whatever
bolt everything back up.
besure to torque to recommended values as specified in teh FSM, use new axle lock nuts!
done.
see mazdatrix faq for pictorial write up
-take off both rear wheels
-blast brakes with brake cleaner and wear gloves
-take off both rear calipers and hang them with zip ties onto the spring without kinking any of the brake lines
-take off both rear rotors
-get 32 mm socket, impact gun good for atleast 240 ft-lbs in reverse
-remove the stake in the axle lock nuts
-remove the axle lock nuts
-push the 1/2 shafts in by finger or gently tap with a peice of wood and hammer
-undo the 3 bolts that hold the triaxial floating knuckle to the rear trailing control arms
-then remove the knucle with the hub still attached
-press out bushings
-clean area
-remove any burrs
-install new bushings with press/hammer/vise/whatever
bolt everything back up.
besure to torque to recommended values as specified in teh FSM, use new axle lock nuts!
done.
see mazdatrix faq for pictorial write up
01-05-2005, 10:36 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Jan 5 2005, 06:28 AM
-you need to raise rear of car,
-take off both rear wheels
-blast brakes with brake cleaner and wear gloves
-take off both rear calipers and hang them with zip ties onto the spring without kinking any of the brake lines
-take off both rear rotors
-get 32 mm socket, impact gun good for atleast 240 ft-lbs in reverse
-remove the stake in the axle lock nuts
-remove the axle lock nuts
-push the 1/2 shafts in by finger or gently tap with a peice of wood and hammer
-undo the 3 bolts that hold the triaxial floating knuckle to the rear trailing control arms
-then remove the knucle with the hub still attached
-press out bushings
-clean area
-remove any burrs
-install new bushings with press/hammer/vise/whatever
bolt everything back up.
besure to torque to recommended values as specified in teh FSM, use new axle lock nuts!
done.
see mazdatrix faq for pictorial write up
-take off both rear wheels
-blast brakes with brake cleaner and wear gloves
-take off both rear calipers and hang them with zip ties onto the spring without kinking any of the brake lines
-take off both rear rotors
-get 32 mm socket, impact gun good for atleast 240 ft-lbs in reverse
-remove the stake in the axle lock nuts
-remove the axle lock nuts
-push the 1/2 shafts in by finger or gently tap with a peice of wood and hammer
-undo the 3 bolts that hold the triaxial floating knuckle to the rear trailing control arms
-then remove the knucle with the hub still attached
-press out bushings
-clean area
-remove any burrs
-install new bushings with press/hammer/vise/whatever
bolt everything back up.
besure to torque to recommended values as specified in teh FSM, use new axle lock nuts!
done.
see mazdatrix faq for pictorial write up
its good practise to put a little grease on the axles when you put em back in the hub, you dotn want them rusting in there. its also ok to put a dab of grease on the wheel hub, keeps the wheel from rusting on too
01-05-2005, 01:17 PM
#8
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: watertown wisconsin
Posts: 1,331
put them in mine aswell took all of 2 hours for both and that included a trip to my buddies shop to use his press.
on a side note to remove old bushings try to burn them out with a torch if your not goin to use them anylonger.
on a side note to remove old bushings try to burn them out with a torch if your not goin to use them anylonger.
01-06-2005, 11:09 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 177
Originally Posted by porsche4786' date='Jan 6 2005, 09:03 AM
i just got my toe steer eliminators in the mail today....when i take the stock ones off of the car will i know which way the metal piece is supposed to be through the plastic outside?
mazdatrix ( http://mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm ) and corksport ( http://corksport.com/main.php3?primNavInde...%3Fcat%3D214917 ) each show the metal pieces in different ways.
which is right?