another question! lol

any problems to anything is the exhaust was tii tight on the turbo? as in fiting the pipe to the turbo was too close and wedged the pipe onto the turbo!



gonna need twist and flex in it but say that there aint much.... what could go wrong? i have a fitted pipe about 5 inches long and each side is vband type. from turbo to custome pipe to remainding exhaust. reminder the entire exhaust is welded solid from custom pipe to tail pipe!





just a curious thaught!



thanks

I dd my car with no ps and a manual rack if you unplug the ps it sucks when i took the ac out i did it right took the lines all apart the condesor and evaperator and compressor

Red to4b



I can't read post #11..... i tried and cannot make scenes of it.

I'm not sure how different the fd to fc brake system is, but all I needed were a few custom brake lines and a proportioning valve. A brake booster is a brake booster. When making the custom lines be sure not to kink any and bleed from the master cylinder first, then each corner when done swapping lines.



My fd has the AC and ps delete. Getting rid of the AC helps with parasitic loss and getting rid of power steering makes it much more stable at high speeds. The car is much less jumpy and you have more steering feel so you know when your car is getting loose before it really is. Also it lessens the chance of overcorrecting if you get squirrely. You can use the ps rack, just make a line to go from one port to the other. This way there's no resistance to turn other than the tires and no junk gets Into the rack to ruin the seals. Furthermore not having ps will increase your arm strength as a side benefit.



For your exhaust, I'd take the entire car into a shop and either have a new custom one made or have them cut and add unions and a flex pipe lol



For your oil issue, I'm especially wary of eBay turbos as I blew up two sets of stock twins, one of which was from eBay. Within a couple months of installing the eBay twins they blew the oil seals and came apart in spectacular fashion. I had oil and coolant in my exhaust and the shop I had rebuild it had to flush all of the impeller blades out of my intercooler.



Best of luck man and I hope this book helps.

Forgot about the clutch leak. Try tightening it (not too much, especially if corroded, they have a bad habit of breaking) and spraying it down with brake cleaner. Pump it up and check again, if still leaking then take it out and to a parts store to match it up. Bleeder screws come in all shapes and sizes and are usually made to fit in the area they're at. Be sure to bleed the system the same way you would brakes when done with any repairs as air has gotten into the system. This not only gives you a spongy pedal, but also puts you more at risk for metal lines corroding out and corrosion buildup in the hydraulics.

Just get a new slave if they dont have it and maybe a ss clutch line

Not for FC's.

This may be the case for FD's (since ABS came standard on all of them), but the abs and non-abs Brake Boosters have different sizes (and quantity) of diaphragms and pushrods. Because of this, the whole units also have different dimensions... so if you try to fit an ABS booster to a NON-ABS master cylinder, the whole assemly will stick out too far and probably won't clear the shock tower. And if you did find a way to fit it, the pushrod wouldnt engage the master cylinder anyway.



Some people have tried the "Mazdatrix ABS Delete Kit"... but I highly discourage anyone to do so (unless you get an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve). Tried it on my TII when my abs pump **** the bed. I put the Delete Kit in, took it out for a spin, and the brakes were dangerously unresponsive. I had virtually no front braking power, and the rears would lock up when trying to come to a full stop from ~30mph. Needless to say, I ditched the kit and swapped over to a legit non-abs setup. If i had the chance, I wouldnt even sell my used delete kit to someone because of how much danger they'd be putting themselves in (or others, for that matter).

I dunno why mazdatrix is still selling them on their site.



+1 for a new slave cylinder. Depending on how you drive, it gets pressurized just as much, if not more than the brake cylinder does. Might be a good idea to get a new one anyway. BTW, the slave bleed screw is an 8mm head size i believe, same as the brake bleeders

I agree lol. A solid exhaust from front to back will probably wind up bending or cracking from stress anyway. And having a multi-peice exhaust would be WAY easier if/when you have to do any work under the car https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/happy.gif

Thanks Guys. im gonna take my car in sometime this week to get the exhaust done on it.



as the new slave cylinder goes, is it just a bolt on or do i have to drop the tany to install? looks to me that all i have to do is remove the old slave and install the new one by just placing the rod on the clutch lever.



sorry for all the questions this is my first FC so im still learning! and we will see if this new turbo will hold up. crossing my fingers



thanks again guys!

The difference between the abs and non abs master cylinders is that the non abs one has an automatic proportioning valve if I had to guess. Fancier, but I'm betting the cheaper route would be to do the way I said earlier. On your vehicle all you would have had to do is install and adjust the proportioning valve down so your rears wouldn't be so grabby. Also did you bleed out the master cylinder before moving to each caliper? If not then you'll still have a ton of air in the system making the brake pedal spongy and giving you less braking force.