Just recently put a new T04b turbo from CX racing on my car and i started it and it smoked the blue kind. after shutting down the engine i took a gander behind the turbo(tubine side) and notice i had Black oil like substance.



started the car again and it continued to smoke. i have no exhaust pipe on the turbo missing a Vband flange, but anyways is it something i need to worry about



its not pouring out its just enough to make the exhaust smoke. and its not as bad as i rev the engine, i was told to check the plugs to see if oil was on them but havnt gotten there yet just wanted another opinion.



the previous turbo blew seals ( so i let it sit in cold ass weather for two months until i got a new turbo) , so would it be oil from bad turbo traped in the headers and the exhaust blowing that oil threw the exhaust?



any opinions help.



if you need more info let me know

If the car hadn't been started for that long until the new turbo was put on, it could just be residual oil from the old leaking turbo. But i would still check your plugs and keep an eye on youre oil pressure and level.



Its possible that you got a defective turbo from CXracing. It seems like its 'hit or miss' with ebay turbos... Some people have really good experiences and make tons of power with them, and others have really bad experiences. Either way, i'd let the car warm up a little bit and idle for a few minutes. If its still smoking profusely after a while, well then you know you have a problem.

forsure. once i get my exhaust hooked up then ill let it run.

thanks man

ill keep u updated!

Sure thing, no problem.

You might wanna run it with just the down pipe when its warming up... that way if the turbo really is leaking, your cats/mufflers wont soak up all that oil.

Good luck, keep us posted https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683827.gif

Thing is the previous owner welded the whole exhaust solid so cant run it from the down pipe only! the previous owner didnt know much how to fix things right did it all ghetto!

Lol he didnt know how to change gaskets lol

That would be my guess. he had a autozone uniform on, so that kind of explains alot. lol so i also had another question..... how hard is it to delete the abs brake system. i was also lookin into deleting the ac pump and power steering(<---- maybe) just lookin for less pulley resistance!

let me know what ya think!

I recently swapped over to non-abs. Its a little bit of a pain in the ass, but if youre abs unit was leaking like mine was, its definately worth it.

You're gonna need a brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve, and the front hard lines (all from a non-abs car).



I have a leftover proportioning valve, master cylinder, and a few of the lines if youre looking for them. Their not pretty but they're usable. Just taking up room in my garage shelf, so if you're interested let me know.





I took out my a/c but kept power steering. It really doesnt free up any serious power by removing them, but it does clean up the engine bay and makes repairs a bit simpler.

i have a manual rack and no ac and it does clean the engine bay up a lot i had ps but my rack was kinda shot to **** causing a 5 beep code yea i know a steering wheel misalignment code for a bad rack but thats all i could find that was really wrong with everything

awsome i just might have to delete the abs. but not any time soon! mine aint leaking at all that i know of right now! gotta focus on getting it back onto the street so i dont keep steeling my girls car! but ill forsure let you know if i want them parts! my clutch keeps bleeding off and loosing pressure as well. after pumping the pedle a couple times i went and looked at the slave and the bleeder screw was leaking. i was on my way into town and didnt see if it was loose or anything. but if soo what size is the screw if you knew by chance!



and i was lookin at the engine earlier and the a/c was already taken out but the guy did a shitty job. just ripped the pump off and blocked the lines and didnt take them out! kinda pissed me off! but oh well.



ps is gonna stay in. i had a plymoth laser a couple years ago and i took the power steering out and it was just a pain in the ass to drive around!

another question! lol

any problems to anything is the exhaust was tii tight on the turbo? as in fiting the pipe to the turbo was too close and wedged the pipe onto the turbo!



gonna need twist and flex in it but say that there aint much.... what could go wrong? i have a fitted pipe about 5 inches long and each side is vband type. from turbo to custome pipe to remainding exhaust. reminder the entire exhaust is welded solid from custom pipe to tail pipe!





just a curious thaught!



thanks

I dd my car with no ps and a manual rack if you unplug the ps it sucks when i took the ac out i did it right took the lines all apart the condesor and evaperator and compressor

Red to4b



I can't read post #11..... i tried and cannot make scenes of it.

I'm not sure how different the fd to fc brake system is, but all I needed were a few custom brake lines and a proportioning valve. A brake booster is a brake booster. When making the custom lines be sure not to kink any and bleed from the master cylinder first, then each corner when done swapping lines.



My fd has the AC and ps delete. Getting rid of the AC helps with parasitic loss and getting rid of power steering makes it much more stable at high speeds. The car is much less jumpy and you have more steering feel so you know when your car is getting loose before it really is. Also it lessens the chance of overcorrecting if you get squirrely. You can use the ps rack, just make a line to go from one port to the other. This way there's no resistance to turn other than the tires and no junk gets Into the rack to ruin the seals. Furthermore not having ps will increase your arm strength as a side benefit.



For your exhaust, I'd take the entire car into a shop and either have a new custom one made or have them cut and add unions and a flex pipe lol



For your oil issue, I'm especially wary of eBay turbos as I blew up two sets of stock twins, one of which was from eBay. Within a couple months of installing the eBay twins they blew the oil seals and came apart in spectacular fashion. I had oil and coolant in my exhaust and the shop I had rebuild it had to flush all of the impeller blades out of my intercooler.



Best of luck man and I hope this book helps.

Forgot about the clutch leak. Try tightening it (not too much, especially if corroded, they have a bad habit of breaking) and spraying it down with brake cleaner. Pump it up and check again, if still leaking then take it out and to a parts store to match it up. Bleeder screws come in all shapes and sizes and are usually made to fit in the area they're at. Be sure to bleed the system the same way you would brakes when done with any repairs as air has gotten into the system. This not only gives you a spongy pedal, but also puts you more at risk for metal lines corroding out and corrosion buildup in the hydraulics.

Just get a new slave if they dont have it and maybe a ss clutch line

Not for FC's.

This may be the case for FD's (since ABS came standard on all of them), but the abs and non-abs Brake Boosters have different sizes (and quantity) of diaphragms and pushrods. Because of this, the whole units also have different dimensions... so if you try to fit an ABS booster to a NON-ABS master cylinder, the whole assemly will stick out too far and probably won't clear the shock tower. And if you did find a way to fit it, the pushrod wouldnt engage the master cylinder anyway.



Some people have tried the "Mazdatrix ABS Delete Kit"... but I highly discourage anyone to do so (unless you get an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve). Tried it on my TII when my abs pump **** the bed. I put the Delete Kit in, took it out for a spin, and the brakes were dangerously unresponsive. I had virtually no front braking power, and the rears would lock up when trying to come to a full stop from ~30mph. Needless to say, I ditched the kit and swapped over to a legit non-abs setup. If i had the chance, I wouldnt even sell my used delete kit to someone because of how much danger they'd be putting themselves in (or others, for that matter).

I dunno why mazdatrix is still selling them on their site.



+1 for a new slave cylinder. Depending on how you drive, it gets pressurized just as much, if not more than the brake cylinder does. Might be a good idea to get a new one anyway. BTW, the slave bleed screw is an 8mm head size i believe, same as the brake bleeders

I agree lol. A solid exhaust from front to back will probably wind up bending or cracking from stress anyway. And having a multi-peice exhaust would be WAY easier if/when you have to do any work under the car https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/happy.gif

Thanks Guys. im gonna take my car in sometime this week to get the exhaust done on it.



as the new slave cylinder goes, is it just a bolt on or do i have to drop the tany to install? looks to me that all i have to do is remove the old slave and install the new one by just placing the rod on the clutch lever.



sorry for all the questions this is my first FC so im still learning! and we will see if this new turbo will hold up. crossing my fingers



thanks again guys!

The difference between the abs and non abs master cylinders is that the non abs one has an automatic proportioning valve if I had to guess. Fancier, but I'm betting the cheaper route would be to do the way I said earlier. On your vehicle all you would have had to do is install and adjust the proportioning valve down so your rears wouldn't be so grabby. Also did you bleed out the master cylinder before moving to each caliper? If not then you'll still have a ton of air in the system making the brake pedal spongy and giving you less braking force.

no need to drop the trans. Pretty much bolt on, and bleed the clutch system and you're good to go. You're probably gonna need to remove the top mount intercooler if you still have it, otherwise its gonna be a bitch to get your hands in there. I'd recommend having a look at a Factory Service Manual (probably in the archives or FAQ of this forum), to show you what the process entails.

Its 2 bolts on top by the fire wall kinda awkard to get to but still doable

Got the FC back on the road guys! fixed the exhaust and the slave bleeder screw had gunk in it so i cleaned it out and it doesnt leak any more!



only thing i need to do is find where coolant is leaking. looks to me its the fill neck on the radiator!



but thanks again guys. no i have to buy tire chains its snowed last night and still gonna snow for the next three days! FML.

Haha that sucks i still say keep an eye on the line and slave it could go bad so if you got a spongey pedal its the slave or line

feels good to me but ill get a new one just in case.



so after driving it today it wouldnt start till i floored it. punched the accelerator to the floor and started right up. still running on the fuel from 4 months ago. might have some water in it. tank is about a quarter tank. so ill keep ya posted on this.

Your gas could have gone a little bad so the octane isnt where it should be

put some gas in it and never had the problem again.

Heet



Go into any parts store and ask for that. It's a water remover and it works. We used to use it for semi tractors to get water out of the fuel in winter. Best of luck man

used it might have helped some!



got another question( sorry for all of them)



but i want to do the whole sleeper look witht the headlights any idea on how to stop the flip lights at about half way or less?

Pop your hood pull the retractor fuse and hit the switch inside to pop them up without the headlights on or just turn the headlights on all the way then tap the fuse until the come up enough or if they come up too much or not enough underneath is a knob it might be covered with a rubber boot if so pull the boot off and rotate whichever way is needed and throw the retractor fuse into the glovebox so you dont loose it

No oil at all in exhaust any more. running like a champ now. thanks guys might talk to you guys soon just because of the rotarys .....

Did you get your sleepy eyes done from my insructions

gonna try tonight dont have internet at my house so im at a friends gettin bills paid and such. ill let ya know. it seems like a very simple task but i just keep running into complications with it.

Lol its call print it out its not that hard fuse brick is labled in the bay

ill post pics when i get er done!

Lol you better not say you cant