spooliNrx7

When my engine is cold or slightly warm, my car starts within about 4 cranks....like a champ.



But, when the engine is warmed up, no start.



My theory is that since the tach needle ISNT bouncing during warm cranking, and IS bouncing during cold start, that my CAS finally went kaput on me. After 135k miles, this seems logical.



Do you agree or am I missing something here?

1Revvin7

Matt,



The FSM has the resistance values for the CAS circuits. That will tell you for sure. What does the E6X CAS reading say when you crank it " hot "?

spooliNrx7

Im pretty sure it read 0, but I cant quite remember from last fall. Gunna have to wait a week until I bring it out of storage.



No FSM so I cant check unless somebody would wanna look it up for a certain somebody....

1Revvin7

lol



Looking at the CAS side of the plug where the lock ontop:



Ne(2) G (2)



Ne(1) G(1)



between G(1) - G(2) should be between 110-210 ohms

between Ne(1) - Ne92) should be between 110-210 ohms



It sounds like your cas is bad though, try swapping with someone who has a known good one( ie car starts all the time )



Give me a ring if you need some more help bud

Apex13B

coils?



I'd say its that if its not the cas

cymfc3s

Check the plug wires on the trailing coil and the trailing spark plugs.

GMON

e6x right? Have you read about the issues with the problems it has reading an ignition signal?

spooliNrx7

I have not, link??

GMON

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...15&highlight=E8



http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...25&pagenumber=1

spooliNrx7

Well I Ohm'd out my CAS. Both routes checked out to about 177-178 ohms of resistance. This is good news and bad news because it seems as if I dont need a new CAS now, bad because now what I was very confident was the problem is not, so it seems anyways......doh.



I will try replacing it with a known good CAS and going from there.