2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

got some rims but i am scared to put them on!

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Old 11-22-2005, 07:02 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by FCs Rule' post='780360' date='Nov 21 2005, 04:19 PM

ok now that i am doing more and more research on it the more i am getting scared! the wheel spacers! i am going to need spacers with longer bolts? when i was thinking spacers i was thinking of those thin 1/4 inch spacers you buy at the tire shop! so why is it that i can't put the wheels right on? why is it that i need wheel spacers? and how come i can put them on in the back with no spacers but i need them for the front? i am so lost i think i just might sell them!


Why don't you just turn around them and sell them if you are so concerned about everything?

The offset on FD wheels is + 50mm. The offset on a stock FC wheel is +40. The FD wheel is a 8" wheel and the FC wheel is 7" in width.



To run a 16x8" wheel in the front (since the macpherson suspension gets in the way) you ideally need +27 offset on a 16x8 wheel.

50mm - 27 mm = 23 mm spacer, or something close to it. 1" is 25.4mm. You will definitly need longer wheel studs.



If you have more concerns you should do some more searching. A good place to start is:



http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/RT/fdfit.htm
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Old 11-22-2005, 08:07 AM
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On my car, I have 10 mm spacers on the front and they dont rub and I have no problems with it. I also only have a 215 tire.
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Old 11-22-2005, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DareBee' post='780555' date='Nov 22 2005, 12:44 PM

This is both right and wrong

This statement is correct only if the wheels are the same width.

If the wheels are of different widths you need to work out the back-spacing and keep that number very close to the same.

Having said that, there is extra room to go deeper on the back spacing than a stock wheel does.


Not as far as I'm aware, you need to keep the offsets the same and not the overall track width.



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Old 11-22-2005, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by FCs Rule' post='780485' date='Nov 21 2005, 10:10 PM

just because you know it all and you have a ton of loot in your pocket doesn't mean i do! i want to know so i do it right! i rather wait and do it right then do it wrong it will cost me more in the end!


you are wrong on both accounts, its just common sense that if you take your time and pay attention you wont break anything.



what are you going to break if you take one of your current wheels off and try to put the other one on? if the strut is in the way then you wont be able to get it on, which means you wont break anything unless you try to force it. if the strut isnt in the way and you gan actually get the wheel bolted up look and see if it will clear everything and if it looks like it will then let the jack down slowly. the key to all of this is to take your time and make sure it will work before you screw something up.
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Old 11-24-2005, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by inanimate_object' post='780649' date='Nov 22 2005, 01:29 PM

Not as far as I'm aware, you need to keep the offsets the same and not the overall track width.



Mark


It has nothing to do with track width

1) you have to clear inboard items, in this case it is the spring and perch that is the issue. So changing wheel width and keeping the same offset gives you deeper backspace which equals interference in said spring perch.

2) The width of the assembly also has to clear outboard items, in this case the inner fender. Most of us want a wide rim, so you need to do the math and work outward starting with the BACKSPACE required and then ensure that it will swing inside of the fender well.
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Old 11-24-2005, 03:07 PM
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I'm coming at it from a handling point of view, you need to keep the offsets the same to keep the right suspension geometry - in the front at least.



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Old 11-25-2005, 07:10 AM
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I completely understand and agree with your reasoning.



IMO the amount of leverage change by adding adding 1" or less to your track is negligable and is also compensated for in the upgraded suspension components.

Not to mention the extra grip that you will get and it looks WAY better.
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Old 11-26-2005, 11:38 AM
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I ran this setup for about a year.



I had to use spacers in all 4 wheels to keep the tracking with it spec. IF you only run spacers in the front it will look like a drag honda.



At first I had the stock size 225/50 r16 they rubbed badly. I only had eibach spring with AGX shocks. You had to be careful taking a turn and turning to a drive way. It would damage the fenders bad.



I then ran 225/45 r16 and was able to get the rubbing to a minimun.



I love how the FD rims looked but it caused weird handling, and put stress on the front wheel bearings. I hardly recommended because of that.
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by turborotor' post='781586' date='Nov 26 2005, 12:38 PM

I ran this setup for about a year.



I had to use spacers in all 4 wheels to keep the tracking with it spec. IF you only run spacers in the front it will look like a drag honda.



At first I had the stock size 225/50 r16 they rubbed badly. I only had eibach spring with AGX shocks. You had to be careful taking a turn and turning to a drive way. It would damage the fenders bad.



I then ran 225/45 r16 and was able to get the rubbing to a minimun.



I love how the FD rims looked but it caused weird handling, and put stress on the front wheel bearings. I hardly recommended because of that.


where you running wheel spacers on there? i just got a set of wheel spacers but i have not put it on the car yet to cold and the holidays!
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Old 11-28-2005, 04:05 PM
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its says he did
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