Ghetto Fabrications And Chop Shop R Us
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Since Banzai shares his highly informative, professional pics... I thought I would go out to the garage to take a pic at my craftsmanship and handy work.
Enjoy.
Some commentary:
The metal sleeves for the delrin rear diff mounts and subframe mounts were made from the stock OEM metal inner sleeves. I just set the old ones on fire and doused gasoline on them every 20 mins to keep them burning. The neighbors love me and there is a huge black tar mark where the sewer gutter is. I then machined them down to 15/16" OD and 1.125", bored the delrin to that size...
The black paint is VHT caliper paint. I'm hoping to god that it's a decent strongish paint. yes I knwo about por15 I couldn't find it locally so all i had was canadian tire crap. It was 9.99 CDN + tax, which was cheaper than the no name black paint and was on par with tremclad. I debated using tremclad at candian tire for 30 mins... not sure why I chose VHT caliper paint.
I stripped by the rust using a wire wheel attachment on an angle grinder. I have a real shitty one so it vibrates like a vibrator for a 2 dollar hooker on crack. I guess I should've known better when it said made in China and it cost me 34.99 CDN + tax. I had to use two wire wheels which at 25 bucks a pop cost more than my angle grinder. I also used the dremel for little areas...
Whatever Rust i could not remove, i used Rust check's rust converter that converts rust into paintable primer. Not sure how well this stuff works but it was worth a shot.
hrm... whatelse... i'll post when i think of new things.
Enjoy.
Some commentary:
The metal sleeves for the delrin rear diff mounts and subframe mounts were made from the stock OEM metal inner sleeves. I just set the old ones on fire and doused gasoline on them every 20 mins to keep them burning. The neighbors love me and there is a huge black tar mark where the sewer gutter is. I then machined them down to 15/16" OD and 1.125", bored the delrin to that size...
The black paint is VHT caliper paint. I'm hoping to god that it's a decent strongish paint. yes I knwo about por15 I couldn't find it locally so all i had was canadian tire crap. It was 9.99 CDN + tax, which was cheaper than the no name black paint and was on par with tremclad. I debated using tremclad at candian tire for 30 mins... not sure why I chose VHT caliper paint.
I stripped by the rust using a wire wheel attachment on an angle grinder. I have a real shitty one so it vibrates like a vibrator for a 2 dollar hooker on crack. I guess I should've known better when it said made in China and it cost me 34.99 CDN + tax. I had to use two wire wheels which at 25 bucks a pop cost more than my angle grinder. I also used the dremel for little areas...
Whatever Rust i could not remove, i used Rust check's rust converter that converts rust into paintable primer. Not sure how well this stuff works but it was worth a shot.
hrm... whatelse... i'll post when i think of new things.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Notice the recycle bin, honey well 3000 watt room heater and surround carboard... It is currently -15°C outside (that's 5°F for the non metric people). THe lable on the primer specially says for best results use 20°C or higher. THE VHT lable says DO NOT USE BELOW 20°C. So with my wisdom I have my make shift oven. There is actually one carboard panel removed for the pic.
If you are expecting FD3SBOOST type quality work, pls look elsewhere. The garage floor is dirty. It's cold outside and there is snow leaking in from around the garage doors and side door entrance... =(.
Meh. All it has to do is turn fast laps and not break.
If you are expecting FD3SBOOST type quality work, pls look elsewhere. The garage floor is dirty. It's cold outside and there is snow leaking in from around the garage doors and side door entrance... =(.
Meh. All it has to do is turn fast laps and not break.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,467
From: Portland, OR
Working in those conditions as admirable, some ppl have the pleasure of nice weather year around and still can't manage to finish thier projects.
As long as you can get the scale off, the rust reforming primer works pretty well covering it in black magnetite. Also by heating the can(s) of paint in warm water and forcing heat into the parts to be painted (torch, oven, etc.) you can have success painting parts in adverse conditions.
The VHT should be fine, I painted the hats on my rotors as well as some other parts in high heat areas and have had great success and longevity in the paint finish.
As long as you can get the scale off, the rust reforming primer works pretty well covering it in black magnetite. Also by heating the can(s) of paint in warm water and forcing heat into the parts to be painted (torch, oven, etc.) you can have success painting parts in adverse conditions.
The VHT should be fine, I painted the hats on my rotors as well as some other parts in high heat areas and have had great success and longevity in the paint finish.
Super Moderator
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,288
From: Amityville, New York
89 rag- are those powerslot rotors?
the hubs dont rust on those, you could have left them silver.
obviously I would pay attention to spraying with the heat on it trying not to spray into the heating element.
the hubs dont rust on those, you could have left them silver.
obviously I would pay attention to spraying with the heat on it trying not to spray into the heating element.
Super Moderator
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,288
From: Amityville, New York
89RAG's look just as good, seems like he chose a paint with less mettalic in it thats all.
I didnt bother painting the hubs on the powerslots, they dont rust, those rotors are like 3 years old already.
They were only dirty from working on the brakes.
the stainless lines are not visable in the front, I only changed them because the original ones were old and I was taking the brakes apart for paint anyhow.
I didnt bother painting the hubs on the powerslots, they dont rust, those rotors are like 3 years old already.
They were only dirty from working on the brakes.
the stainless lines are not visable in the front, I only changed them because the original ones were old and I was taking the brakes apart for paint anyhow.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Feb 21 2005, 05:13 PM
89RAG's look just as good, seems like he chose a paint with less mettalic in it thats all.
I didnt bother painting the hubs on the powerslots, they dont rust, those rotors are like 3 years old already.
They were only dirty from working on the brakes.
the stainless lines are not visable in the front, I only changed them because the original ones were old and I was taking the brakes apart for paint anyhow.
I didnt bother painting the hubs on the powerslots, they dont rust, those rotors are like 3 years old already.
They were only dirty from working on the brakes.
the stainless lines are not visable in the front, I only changed them because the original ones were old and I was taking the brakes apart for paint anyhow.
yes 89 rag's is nice as well. I can't argue with that. I painted my rotors. The paint on them hubs stuck except for the surface where the back of the wheel meets with the rotors. Either I didn't let the paint dry enough when I first did them and mounted the wheels. Or the repeated changing of wheels on and off for autox events killed teh paint.
Rob come and paint my car!
One last thing... both you guys painted your brake calipers. Did you need a primer for it? A high temp paint primer? (does such a thing exist?) or did you just claen them and spray paint into them.
Super Moderator
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,288
From: Amityville, New York
I used engine primer, I was going to use DuPont VariPrime but I didnt feel like making a mess of myself, I cant stand the smell of VariPrime, plus I figured if the spray primer was good for engines,its ok for brakes
I primed only one side, I wanted to see if there would be any difference in the long run between one side of the car and the other.
btw- those oil filled radiators work nice in harsh enviroments as they have no exposed heating element, they are really safe to leave on as well. They are down to like $30-$35 now.
I primed only one side, I wanted to see if there would be any difference in the long run between one side of the car and the other.
btw- those oil filled radiators work nice in harsh enviroments as they have no exposed heating element, they are really safe to leave on as well. They are down to like $30-$35 now.