So im getting my list togehter here and im sure ive missed something. I have aeromotive a1000 regulator, fuel press guage, thread sealer, -6an fitting to hose barb connection, -6 an o ring to -6an straight, steel tubing, an wrench, hose mounting clamps, and a bender and flare tool. Im sure most will frown on the use of the hose barb but the cars still N/A. Main purpose here is to delete the factory reg and pd to try and stop the fuel system from leaking. Only thing im unsure of right now is what to do after removing the fpr from the rail, unless im mistaken it bolts to the end. Anyone have suggestions on that?

 

you can use a s4 secondary fuel rail and thread it for -an fittings or buy a upgraded rail like the one im tryin to sell from k2rd wich is a very very nice piece

 

 

Nice one Matsuda been looking for a diagram like that for a while

 

why not just do the banjo bolt mod and emiminate the pulsation dampner, this seems like major overkill and waste of money just to " stop leaks"

 

I would not use that configuration. I know of two people who ran that setup and it didn't work right. It lacks a pulsation dampener. Max did a better one. Do a search in the engine building sub forum for an updated better layout. I forget exactly wehre it is, it's been years since I have seen it.

 

I did some work on my fuel system today and was looking for input. I installed a new Warboro pump and -6 an lines to the front. After running th -6 an I startes wondering if I should have run -8 an on the supply side. I switched to -8 an after the filter so if I made a mistake at least that part would be right. I drilled the primary rail all the way through 27/64 I think. On the exit of the primary I used a fitting with an output for a preasure guage. I used this output for the guage and pulsation damper. I was going to use the stock damper but, just for kicks I blew into it and right through it. That cant be good so I guess I'll order the one from Marren. I then fed the line to the supply side of the secondary rail which I drilled out past the first injector. Stock size from there back to the tank using stock p/r.

I couldn't believe how restrictive those banjo bolts were. If this is a good set up it is quite easy and not overly expensive $225 plus the pulsation damper.

Should this set up be able to support 350-400 hp.?

Dave

 

I forgot to add the price of the fuel pump.

Dave

 

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thats what i did

 

works fine for me made 407 hp on the dyno still at 10.0 on the wide ban