Flush coolant and oil change...
11-16-2002, 05:42 PM
#21
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ok...opened neck cap and "bleeder plug," drained radiator and block. flushed the whole system with water. put back block plug and radiator drain plug...flushed reservoir...added coolant till it came out the bleeder plug hole, put bleeder back on, ran engine and added coolant till it was full, but low coolant warning kept buzzing
called dad, said run engine with neck lid off, wait for level to go down, and add coolant accordingly...tried this, but it just kept dribbliing out, then kinda started popping out...warning light still buzzing. wtf should I do?
also, how do I drain the reservoir? I only see the hose going in the top
called dad, said run engine with neck lid off, wait for level to go down, and add coolant accordingly...tried this, but it just kept dribbliing out, then kinda started popping out...warning light still buzzing. wtf should I do?
also, how do I drain the reservoir? I only see the hose going in the top
11-16-2002, 06:06 PM
#23
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if the buzzer keeps going it means theres air in the top of the radiator. you can remove the bleed valve in the elbow on the radiator to get it out, some people just remove the sensor itself and let the air escape and waith til fluid is pouring out of the hole then reinstall the sensor immediately.
11-16-2002, 06:23 PM
#24
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I always fill the coolant with the bleeder in, let the car run for a WHILE with the radiator cap off and the bleeder closed and make sure the reservoir bottle is kept at the Low/cold mark.
Close the cap, let the car run some more or drive it around the block or so, fill the reservoir to the FULL mark and you should be done, I personally have never had any air in any of my Mazdas.
Close the cap, let the car run some more or drive it around the block or so, fill the reservoir to the FULL mark and you should be done, I personally have never had any air in any of my Mazdas.
11-16-2002, 06:30 PM
#25
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thanks...that helps a lot (hopefully)...I'm not at home so I can't try right now, but I'll unbolt the reservoir and drain, and remove the bleeder plug and possibly the sensor...whatever works...thanks for the info
tomorrow I'll try changing the oil, and see what I can make go wrong
tomorrow I'll try changing the oil, and see what I can make go wrong
11-16-2002, 06:33 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Nov 17 2002, 12:23 AM
I always fill the coolant with the bleeder in, let the car run for a WHILE with the radiator cap off and the bleeder closed and make sure the reservoir bottle is kept at the Low/cold mark.
Close the cap, let the car run some more or drive it around the block or so, fill the reservoir to the FULL mark and you should be done, I personally have never had any air in any of my Mazdas.
Close the cap, let the car run some more or drive it around the block or so, fill the reservoir to the FULL mark and you should be done, I personally have never had any air in any of my Mazdas.
87 rx-7 shop manual coolant replacement procedure
11-16-2002, 06:39 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='Nov 17 2002, 12:38 AM
Pretty much what I said.
I think it's just generally a good idea to use the bleeder valve, I've had success without using it but... it seems to vary from person to person, probably just depends on the orientation of the car and other variables wether you will get all the air out or not without the help of it.
11-16-2002, 10:15 PM
#30
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I'll try all this...and you'll probably hear a bunch more questions from me on Monday regarding this and oil changes...assuming my normal bad luck kicks in...(if the engine dumps oil and then a grinding sound, is that bad?....etc....)