so i jsut got this all together, all the turbo everything on a NA block.



and i got to the point where i can start it. I have all the vacuum lines ran, and the extras capped. I blocked off everything, bac and all. I can get it to start, but its pretty shaky. And itll die unless i hold it around 3k. Ive checked and recheked and triple checked the timing, so i know its good.



now it doesnt have an 02 sensor hooked up at the moment. im about to go hook it up, but will not having one really make it run that shitty?



I might just need to adjust the idle? but where the hell is the adjuster on this TII tb business, on the na it was so obvious but i cant find this one.



thanks in advance dudes, i'd be so lost without you guys. (mainly j9, hes the man)

You may have some vacuum leaks. Also Idle may be too low. Not having an O2 sensor wouldn't make it not idle.



As far as idle adjustment....it was on the BAC. I've also removed the BAC and such things. I adjust the idle buy the set screw that's right next to where the throttle cable hooks up to the TB. It adjusts the throttle plates.

thats and theres also the tps and the mixture adjustment thing that can be adjusted for a better idle

got the dp and o2 on, no change.



ill recheck my vacuum lines and play with the idle screw.



i set the tps with the uim off the car via the FSM resistance method with a multimeter, i think somethings off though as its almost all the way tightened down jsut to get 1k closed, and it only went to 4k at full open.

i may have to try another method. ill unscrew it back to where it was good on the na, maybe itll like that better



i havent been able to see if letting it warm up will stabalize the idle, leaks keep springing up everywhere! most recent one, the oil sandwitch plate decided it didnt really want to seal to the block afterall. damn thing.

messed around with tps settings, still no idle. did get a backfire or two though revving it to keep it alive.



i still cant seem to find any kind of screw that looks like it does anything to the idle or throttle plates. anyone got a picture?

yeah you probbaly have a vac leak the 2nd time i did NA turbo i ended up with a bit of a vac leak on the lower intake manifold to block.... it seems like the na gasket ( at least the metalish/rubber one i used) doesnt quite fit right above the center iron ports where the air bleed holes are and what not...

i used RTV, ill double check that tomorrow as i doubt the neighbors would like me starting up my car open downpipe this late at night.



itll start right up, go to about 1k - 1.5k and then after a second die if i dont give it gas. revving it seems kinda sluggish and it wants to die after each rev if i dont rev it again quick enough.

only way to keep it alive is revving it constantly above 2k or holding it about 2k.

Here's the best pic I could find.

ahh, i thought that was it, but that screw is all the way in and doesnt touch anything when the throttle is fully closed.

My car was doing the same thing before I found out it had really low compression. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif I wonder if the same thing is happening to you're motor?

ran like a champ before i put all of this on it, so im doubting it.

i'm thinking vacuum leak too, other things to check though...



tps should be set with the car HOT, i like using the lights, but the ohm meter thing works too



um you might wanna check the bac valve, make sure it works, if the t2 one is bad, i think you could prolly get the na one to work



if you adjust the throttle plates, then it throws the tps off, so you need to readjust the tps.



id also play with the idle mixture screw, on a stock car it shouldnt be maxed out either way, if it is then you have a leak, but once you remove the air pump, its usually all the way lean.

i dont have a bac!



im gonna go over my vacuum lines tomorrow, i think one has a pinhole but that wouldnt screw the whole pooch. is that nipple on the lim angled towared the back of the car the injector air bleed deal? i just assumed and i may have assumed wrong.

did everyone miss the part where he said he used RTV as an intake gasket??????? ok there itself is a problem unless i read that wrong. i would just use a gasket with no sealent at all on the intake manifolds. disregard this if there is a gasket in there.

but but but, rtv seals EVERYTHING! haha kidding. i hope its not that, i dont wanna have to pull the turbo off to redo it.



if i could just get it to hold steady at 2k or something, i could spray around and find the leak. but it just wants to die if im not constantly modulating the throttle.

the smog guys have a stick they can put on the accelerator to make the thing run @2500rpms or whatever

gotta be a vacuum leak, left a ic clamp off and it got worse.



gonna try to borrow a friends plug thing, that you use an air compressor and listen for the leaks.



hopefully that tracks it down.

yep. ive had good luck just blowning in there with ME as the compressor

ran it with the afm straight off the TB, sounded different but still ran just as bad. rules out the ic piping



gonna tear it down once it stops raining.



is the oem paper lim gasket really that much better then rtv? if so ill order one.

Silicone isn't really made to seal things that have gas going by. Besides, the paper gasket is what is supposed to be there.

no gasket=no seal

what if i put rtv on the lim gasket?



kevin.

thats good

good.



kevin.

guess im ordering a gasket and tearing it apart again.

thanks for the help guys, ill let you know if that fixes it. knowing me theres probably a handfull of other leaks too.

goddamnit getting that turbo on/off is a pita.

hmm.



whats the deal on AIT sensors? cause i dont recall having one when i was NA. and i certainly dont have one now.



does that make a difference at all?

how did the injector orings look? those dont like being removed after 20 years...

they looked pretty good actually. i had 4 550s and i used the two with the best looking orings. The secondaries are 720s and hadnt been used much, and coincidentally the orings were fine.



i think this air intake temp sensor deal might have something to do with it, but im not sure as im new to the whole turbo setup.

i found the sensor on my NA uim, now where the hell do i put this thing on my turbo stuff? I dont remember unplugging it but its definitely there.



fsm says it goes in the TB elbow, but im using a NA one right now.

im presuming its actually important and i should probably hook it up?

yeah on the turbo its on the tb elbow. um put it somewhere after the ic, it should be fine

what is the order that you took to set the idle?



Set master max idle screw

set tps

set thermowax

set tps

set bac?



I dont know if that is right, but that sounds logical to me. Anybody have any input on that?

still waiting on the gasket



messed with it a little today.



plugged in the AIT sensor just in open air, figured it was better then nothing. Played with the idle mixture screw a little, and i think i fixed a tiny leak i had.



It seemed to run better, although still jsut over 1.5k under that and it would die.



I tried using a friends setup, one of those stoppers with the bike stem deal in it. I couldnt make it work, it wouldnt build any pressure. And i couldnt hear air coming out because its a compressor hooked up to it and its loud. is it spose to build some pressure or do i need to use like a bike hand pump?

forgot about that, thats one advantage just blowing in there has, it makes no noise

you guys are friggen geniuses.



got some starter fluid, got it to stay around 2k. and spraying the fluid around the base of the LIM it revved up.



im still waiting to get my gasket from mazdatrix, but atleast now i know thats definitely whats causing it.

About the air temp sensor...



So you don't have one hook to the ECU at all? If you're using the N/A TB elbow drill and tap the elbow.

i have one i pulled off my NA UIM. Its sitting in open air atm but its better then nothing. Im either gonna rig it into what i have now, or end up with a greddy TB inlet because right now i have a cut NA one that pretty much emulates it and comes straight out the TB.



i also hooked up the catback, damn this thing is quiet! its now 2.5 from turbo to N1 catback, jsut straight pipe. The RB NA downpipe and presilencer with the same catback was so much louder.

turbo is a good muffler, thats why people use em

best muffler ive ever used!



im still waiting on the gasket i ordered last friday, mazdatrix usually doesnt take this long..

so i jsut busted my ass to put that gasket in, and its still ******* doing it.



its not AS bad but it still wont idle, if i hold it at a rpm itll go up and down on its own until it finally stays at that rpm.



spraying started fluid at the lim to block area still made the idle bump up.



it kinda almost idled for a few seconds after i kept it alive enough to warm up and gave it some angry hard revs.



that and once it warms up theres smoke coming off the back of the exhaust wheel housing and downpipe

hows your timing?



kevin.