After owning my car for something like 13-14 years I am finally getting around to swapping the motor out.

It all began when I purchased Jim's old motor ( 13B ACE )

He had it in his purple convertible with some rather large turbo and it ran great.

It was tuned with a Wolf, so I am using the same computer because it worked well.

Later on maybe I will change the computer, but I will leave that up to the tuner when he uses it and tells me

if he likes it or not. The car will be dyno tuned after break in by Waynespeed who sells the wolfs as well



The motor had sat for a few years but was what seemed like a perfectly good running motor when it was removed.

I know because we lived 10 minutes from each other and been to his house a few times.

Figuring it had sat too long I decided to enlist someone to rebuild it for me. I had checked a few times with different people

but never made a connection to get the work done. Finally I found someone to swap the whole thing and build the motor.



Quite honestly- I do what I do best- fix boats. Could I do the swap myself? Im sure I could with some head scratching and posting

questions. The fact of the matter is I have very little free time, my time is best spent fixing boats and making money- then going home and

enjoying myself for the 2-3 hours before I go to sleep again https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/wacko.gif



So here is where I am at now.



After taking the motor apart there was some scoring on the rotor housing, so now I tracked down another one.

It was found that the motor was barely ported- plenty of power left in it so the motor was ported to keep it streetable.

The rotors which were 3mm rotors were a little out of spec, so we got some super low mileage FD rotors and rotating assembly.

New stationary gears were also needed. I also got a brand new oil pump from Mazda.

Obviously we put all new seals in the motor.



I will be running a S4 front cover with a billet aluminum OMP adaptor from rotary aviation.

This requires a small bottle of oil and eliminates the need to pre-mix.

I got a nifty solution from one of my boating supply places intended for drive oil for a high performance boat.

I got linkage from a S4 car that will allow this whole deal to operate off throttle, this way I wont be puffing smoke sitting at idle as it would

be with pre-mix.



I got all new motor, differential, and transmission mounts. I got competition mounts from Mazda, I also got new Y-blocks for the transmission mount. New bellhousing bolts.

All new hydrolics including stainless clutch line, master, and slave.

I got a new clutch fork and obviously new throw out bearing and pilot seal.

I had a perfectly good TII transmission taken apart and rebuilt from my transmission guy.

Brand new Racing Beat 12lb flywheel is going to a totally custom clutch I had one of my customers make for me.

He makes race clutches for alot of companies in the country. We started with a worn out ACT set up ( which was sold to me as "barely used" and was not even useable ) and rebuilt and customized it from there.

He had done the clutch on my LT1 TII and I cant be happier with it so I am looking forward to this set up as well.



I have a manual rack going in place of the power steering rack.



I put all new bearings and seals in the S4 TII rear end, I had it professionally set up by Freddy Brown Transmissions locall to me.

He cleaned what I did not and checked over the LSD to make sure it was good to go. Those bearings and seals aint cheap, I got

them dealer cost 2 years ago and it cost me something like $250-$275 at the time, and that was everything but the LSD unit.

It looks brand new inside and out.



I have what I think is a Greddy FMIC, I will be retaining AC so I may have to get custom pipes made.

Battery will be in the trunk, again turning to my high performance boating people I got a nice composite battery holder for that.



I am replacing the auto meter gauges in my car now with Blitz, boost gauge will be column mounted Blitz BLM, oil pressure and water temp will

be mounted where I have them now under the radio.

The wolf controller will be in the glove box, as will the HKS boost controller- I am beyond having everything out in the open for people to see- I want to be low key.



Fuel system I got a brand new Supra TT pump from Toyota, its going to KG rails and brand new 1600s and 850s with a fuel pressure regulator, all stainless braided lines and AN fittings will be used.



Turbo is a brand new garrett T04B. I know its not that large, but the rest of the car is already built to handle much more- which I am already planning on next winter. Mounted on a HKS log manifold, BOV is greddy, wastegate is Innovative Turbo Systems.

Downpipe is a Himni 3" stainless with V-bands. Exaust will be custom pipe to Racing Beat stainless steel mufflers.

I got a nice oil feed set up from Himni which is a stainless braided line with all the adaptors.



Brand new stainless braided oil cooler lines will go to the factory oil cooler.

New MSD wires will light the fire.

A brand new Koyo aluminum radiator will keep things cool.

I got a brand new FD alternator that actually came with a spec sheet that was putting out over 125 amps

I will hopefully be running the RE-Cosmo serpentine belt as I got a set of pulleys from a cosmo engine.

I got a ac bracket from a manual steering car so that I wont have that extra crap in the engine bay, it was

powdercoated to match.



We are trying to detail the motor as much as possible, paint and powdercoat will replace polished- I am hoping for a darker sinister effect

instead of that polished look.



Im sure I might have forgot some stuff or typed something wrong, its early and Im sleepy!



I also have full S5 parts for the car, im undecided to use them or not. Consisting of S5 vert tails, factory TII skirts, bumpers, and moldings.

I will probably use them as the other car I have needs a bumper anyhow- so might as well put my S4 bumpers on the other car.



Im having problems with the resize on my site, so excuse the pics.



Out with the old, I took this pic a few weeks ago when I took the car out of storage. This motor will go into another vert I have

that was on its way to the scrap yard so that another RX7 will be on the road instead of parted out.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1601-1/8%20003.jpg





the car it is going in:



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/490-1/d130cafb033d.jpg







The color alot of the externals will be, we filled in the un-used emissions stuff instead of using block off plates.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1618-1/25.jpg

the motor, in no order at all. I got its own new engine stand and its sitting on one of Colin's engine stand adaptors.





http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1604-1/101_0821.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1606-1/101_0822.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1608-1/101_0819.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1610-1/101_0818.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1612-1/101_0816.JPG

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http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1616-1/101_0812.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1621-1/101_0784.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1623-1/101_0791.JPG



I am not using that LIM, I got another one.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1625-1/101_0807.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1627-1/101_0796.JPG

Looks good so far. How much power are you looking for?



You should swap an LS1 in there instead. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/devil.gif

for what I will be into the swap for a LS1 would have been cheaper.

I already have a V8 car, this one will stay rotary.



If I do get a LS1 RX7, its going to be a FD.

With my insurance company taking these as collectors I pay next to nothing to insure them so

owning a few makes a little more sense.



I will be happy with 325-350hp with pump gas.

Honestly more is fun and great for bragging rights, but the car becomes almost un-driveable for the street.



The car and its supporting systems can easily handle 400+hp, add another fuel pump and get rid of the rest of the stock

fuel system and the car can see monster turbos with crazy boost.

Yeah, you are right about an LS1 FD. But having an LS1 FC, not very common right now. You use Haggerty right? Is their an age requirement? I know that they must be kept garaged and have a certain mileage per year.





Is'nt the TO4B capable of 450hp+. I don't keep up with turbo's anymore, I have gotten out of the rotary game pretty much.

it depends who you talk to and how truthfull they are about the horsepower.

When its tuned we will see what it do!



I have Grundy for the 2 RX7s, 1/3 price of haggerty.

Age requirements for every licensed drive in the house, must have a daily driver for each member less

then 10 years old, blah blah blah



Oddly enough they would not take my CJ7, so I have that one with JC Taylor who says they will take my RX7s

this year.

thats gonna be really nice rob!



imo if you're gonna have enzo do the tuning, let him tune it to a bigger boost number, then you can just drop it for driving in the real world...

YESSSSSSSs! This car was awesome when it was N/A. Now it will be even cooler.

Maybe I should have him tune it on race fuel, then turn it down for everyday gas.



**********er was grumpy today, I think it knows its time has come.

I went to start it to bring it into my shop to swap the gauges and drain the old gas so I could

put fresh super unleaded in it and all hell broke loose.

The main fuse blew, the headlights themselves are not working now, and the wiper switch is fucked up!



I think the battery has a dead short in it? At first I thought maybe my portable boost pack was not working right, but it did the same

when I put a regular jump starter/battery charger on it.





I swapped the main fuse out and put a different battery in it and it fired right up, but the headlights and wipers are still not right- will

check those fuses when I work on the car Monday. That would be some **** if I went this long with original switches and now they are

fucked up!



Anyone know if S5 wiper/headlight switches drop right in a S4 car?

rob finally caught the hp bug..

you swore it wouldnt happen.. it took some time but it broke through...

My fear is that I wont be able to let it sit in the garage a month then hop right in on a sunday afternoon and drive it 100 miles.



I can only hope it stays as reliable as it has been for its 152k mile life as a NA car.



I swore it would never happen unless it looked as if it came from the factory like that, minus the powdercoat and other

dress up items I hope we can pull it off.

Ditch the OMP and just premix, the OMP does nothing, I always though ti did until I saw 2 engines apart, one using premix the other the OMP it was VERY obvious at that point the OMP was a band aid because Mazda knew no one would deal with premix.





As far as HP goes, if the car is intended to be a daily driver I would go with a T04E or GT35R or something small for a turbo, nice quick spoolup and great driveability. Shoot for about 320 the the wheels for Daily driving and you'll have a really fun car that will last a long long time.



Good luck with the swap.



BTW - Who assembling the motor? I have never seen anyone push the apex seals in while its together before.





Also, AAA is now offering insurance, I am insuring my RX7 with a stated value of 15K, full coverage for $400 a year with a 5K a year mile allowance.

my vert costs me $125 a year to insure with 10k coverage, I might up it after this.



My turbo is small and I already have it and its brand new- I will run it with this set up and see how it does

then really research some other turbos later on.



I am now debating electric fans or not, I know the stock fan cools great, part of me wants to ditch it and part of me does

not want the draw on the electrical system



The OMP adaptor is a pretty neat thing, its a total mechanical adaptor that will work off the throttle linkage.



http://rotaryaviation.com/images/Oil...n-ADAPTERS.jpg

I switched to electric and its a total PITA. When I got Tony Farkas' car from Team, it had an electric on a series 5 motor. I put the OEM fan back on and it ran so much cooler. If I was willing to swap out some parts off my FD motor I could run a OEM fan too. Very tempting, the duel 11" fans I run draw a LOT of amps.







Back to the OMP, what are those Aviation ones supposed to accomplish?



I was at Pettits one day and asked Cameron and Candy about Premix Vs. OMP and Candy pulled 2 rotor housings off the shelf. One was from a car that only used the OMP the other was from a premix engine, according to them, both had approx the same miles on them.



The one from the OMP engine had a shiney line about 4mm wide from the OMP weep hole around about 1/4 of the housing, the rest of the housing was worn and dark.



On the premix motor the entire rotor housing was nice and smooth and no signs of wear. I was sold.

When I blew my engine the 1st time Cameron rebuilt it, he called me up to come see the internals of the engine after it had been run for about 2 years and had tons of Autocrosses and Track days on it. Barely any sign of wear. If it was not for my boost spike and malfunctioning boost controller, I would have run a long long time problem free with little wear.



I was dead set against premixing up until I saw for myself the benefits of it. I have since removed the OMP from my car and only premix now.

basically it allows 2 stoke, not regular oil, to do the job.

Pre-mix works because of the 2 stroke oil, not because you are putting it in the fuel instead of how the OMP handles it.

So think of it getting the benefits of pre-mix without the hassle.



from the site:





Oil Metering Pump Adaptor



Wankel engines such as the one used in the MAZDA RX7 sports car need oil in the combustion area for lubricating the metal seals.



Most stock engines use a metering pump pumping a small amount of engine oil from the oil pan into the intake manifold and/or directly into the combustion chamber. Engine oil is designed to lubricate sleeve bearings and carry heat from the engine interior to some cooling areas. In the RX7 the heat is removed from the oil in an oil cooler. When engine oil is getting into the combustion chamber, it only is burning partially, leaving some unburned deposits behind. These deposits can build up and reduce engine performance.



One obvious method of preventing this is to disconnect the metering pump altogether and mix two-stroke oil to the gasoline like some older two-stroke engines require. With this method it has been demonstrated that two-stroke oil is an effective lubricant and there is no build up of combustion residues.



The Metering Pump Adapter, as offered by PCV Technologies takes the solution one step further in allowing to still using the stock metering pump but supply it with two-stroke oil. This adaptor pump is installed in conjunction with the stock oil metering pump.



With the Adapter installed, all that is needed is a small oil tank with two-stroke oil (you supply the two stroke oil reservoir tank), connected to the Metering Pump Adapter. The oil level in the tank should never be less then 6” above metering pump.



Oil consumption is approximately 1/100 of fuel used.

So I guess it's still using the OMP even though you are premixing? Just curious as I have read about some people using this method just as a backup.

Remove the OMP completely, premix and be done with it. I buy my premix by the gallon and have about 8 little 8 oz. bottles I keep in my RX7 in the back. When I fill up I throw 6 oz.s to 12 gallons for daily driving and 12 oz. to 12 gallons for Autocrossing and road racing.



All that Aviation one is going to do is inject a tiny bit of oil through the weep hole. See my above posts, it does not work, it was Mazda's only way of getting oil into the engine without freaking out the consumer.





I mean, do what you want its your car but I am telling you its a waste of money and full on premix is 100X better.

Gonna be nice dude, took you long enough to commit LOL

its going to inject 2 stroke oil, not regular motor oil.

thats the difference between this and a regular OMP set up.



the mazda way does not work well because it relies on motor oil, not 2 stroke.

And if Mazda's way was SO bad there would be thousands and thousands of bad motors out there.



so now I have become the guy who has the gauge mounted in his car before the motor, I feel so ashamed.

Its part of me getting the car ready to bring over there for the swap, figured I would tinker with this crap and

deal with the brittle mazda interior plastic on my own so no one feels bad if something breaks. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif



luckly nothing broke, I could not mount the other blitz gauges because I still have to track down some fittings for them to

work for me, you would think it would be easy to get japenese gauges working in a japenese car?

Maybe when I bring them to the motor I will find they thread right into the motor somewhere and wont have to use the RB adaptor

thats on the car now.



It only blocks a tiny bit of the un-viewed part of the tach. Its looks like it blocks more of it, but thats just the angle of the pictures.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1631-1/gauges%20006.jpg



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1634-1/gauges%20007.jpg



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1637-1/gauges%20008.jpg





it was nice to get it into the shop for once





http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1640-1/gauges%20001.jpg

Rob,



My last post on this OMP thing I promise. I just want you to know what I found out. Remember I WAS anti-premix. I did not want to be bothered playing chemist every time I had to fill up. Once converted, I realized it was very easy to pre-mix. I wait until I am below 1/4 tank then add 6 ounces of premix then add usually 12 gallons of fuel give or take its not really important you be exact, just close.







http://pettitracing.com/rx8/index_faq_protek.htm





Also, using 2 stroke oil and injecting it with the OMP is not going to make it any better other than you will not have build up from unburnt 4 cycle oil. As far as lubricating goes, the OMP will not work.



Why Rotaries are not failing all over the place is simple, I have a friend with a ITS car that has not had a OMP or premix in it for 7 seasons on the same engine. These are hearty engines and they last, but when your pushing them hard in a turbo application every little bit helps. In my friends case he has only track miles on his RX7 and while he has run 7 seasons his total miles is probably less than 5K miles.



Did you tear down your N/A engine? You did not premix it right? Tear it down and see the little 4mm wide bands going about 1/4 the way around the housing essentially showing you the OMP was doing nothing more than lubricating a 4mm wide band on the apex seal.



IMHO the OMP is a waste of space under the hood, Pre-mix is the only way to go. This coming from a guy that was adamant he would never premix.

I thought some of the OMP lines went into the intake manifold so the oil would lubricate everything, not just the apex seals?



I also think too many people make a big deal about the "muss'n'fuss" associated with premixing. The worst part about premixing for me is the stares and idiot comments from other people at the gas station. When I REALLY want to freak them out I just open my trunk and start pouring methanol in there, lol.



I notice your boost gauge reads in bar instead of psi, did you get it like that on purpose?

I dont think it was availble any other way, I really liked the gauge when it came out.

some more assembly pics, you can see the clearance tools, some of the stuff is just sitting on there for the picture and not yet

mounted.

The RB flywheel is there, and my custom clutch set up.

Cosmo pulleys were mocked up as well as the FD alternator which needs some fitting.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1643-1/101_0867.JPG



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1647-1/101_0873.JPG



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http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1645-1/101_0882.JPG

You'd be surprised what power you can actually make out of some to4B's. Reason most people here use such large ass compressors is everything is far from optimal. However those verts are heavvvyyy.

we shall overcome, I KNOW I wont keep this turbo, after the car is sorted, the suspension finished- then

its turbo swapping time- maybe next winter- I want to drive this thing when the weather breaks

I think your going to like that T04B a lot. Especially if your just street driving it. It will be really responsive and give a really nice punch fast. Top end will suffer but, honestly on a street driven car it should not be important. Bottom end, where you will spend most of your time will be most important.



When I switched from my hybrid T04E made out of a series 5 Turbo with a TMIC and went to a FMIC and true T04E I was surprised at the lag. I was so used to the quickness of the TMIC, and little turbo.



The engine looks really nice. If your spending the winter on this swap I suspect the final product will be really clean. Looking good so far. That vert is going to be the ultimate cruiser.

BTW - Is that Racing Beat Flywheel the 12# one?



I remember when I switched from stock to a 9.5# one from SR Motorsports your going to like that a lot. Taking off requires a little skill but the throttle response from that lightened flywheel is just amazing. Your going to love that setup.

I went with the 12lb'er for ease of street driving, always hearing good things about it in the past.



Big numbers are great for bragging rights, but I want a car I can drive safely and enjoy on a sunday afternoon.

That has not been my experience, I think one reason top end sufferes on a lot of cars with smaller turbos is they usually couple them to small turbine a/rs( .84 P trims for example), in addition to smaller exhaust systems. Then again air density is never concentrated on; like sucking air off your radiator...



Car looks good robo, get rid of that pos cast iron manifold...

I just bought a GT35R and I was lamenting over a 1.01 A/R on the turbine or a .84





I decided on the .84.



Reason being is I street drive this car 80% of the time, good throttle response is important to me. I then Autocross the other 15% of he time so throttle response is a huge deal to me. Then Track it about 5% of the time, I prefer a good punch coming out of a corner vs. top end at the end of a straight. I have yet to meet a track where I ran out of gearing on the car and needed to be over 6K RPM in 5th gear. Moroso in WPB comes close as I hit 165 on the front straight and Sebring a close second as I hit 150 on the back straight. If your doing roll races on ther interstate to 170+ then yes, a bug honking turbo is what you want.



A dig race to 60-80 MPH small quick spooling turbo is the ticket.

I ordered my fan and shroud from sneed racing today, they are making me a 3000 cfm version.



funny thing is the LT1 TII I have runs great on its electric fan with no shroud.



http://www.sneedspeedshop.com/store/...x7shroudbg.jpg

I decided not to use the blitz oil and temp gauges, too complicated to try to find adaptors for them for my motor.



I will be putting them up for sale or just file them in my basement with other spare parts.



I did get a stainless braided line for my autometer oil pressure gauge, and had a autometer bung welded on my waterpump housing

for the temp gauge- I run all mechanical gauges.



I got my throttle body all cleaned up, you guys can keep your polished throttle bodies- im going for a stealthy look.

I think some of the linkage on the throttle body will be removed.



I will snap more pics of the motor tonight, its dressed a little more.



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1683-1/tb%20001.jpg



http://robx-7.nopistons.com/d/1686-1/tb%20002.jpg

Stealthy is where its at, I would love to show you the inside of my TB but my mechanic would have me killed. Lets just say its 30% bigger than stock.



PM me if you want his contact info, he can modify yours if you would like. I am VERY happy with the results.

Very nice Rob.



Your vert will be in a class of it's own.

any back to back testing or did you do that mod along with other mods?

No testing on my car but it was tested on another customers car. They did a pull on the dyno with a regular stock TB then swapped in the "custom" one and there was a nice gain.



I keep forgetting you running a series 5 motor. So never mind, you cannot port a series 5 enough. It has to be a FD or RE TB.



FYI - It was a FD with stock ports, power FC and T78 turbo.



11 PSI - stock manifold and TB - 297RWHP 272 TQ



Pulled stock stuff, put on ported TB and heavily ported intake manifold upper and lower, this requires him cutting into into the manifolds, he cuts them open to get to the parts you cannot reach and welds them back shut and polishes them, you can barely see my cut outs. I would estimate 30% more airflow.



Another pull.



11 PSI nothing else has been changed except the TB and manifolds.



341RWHP and 301TQ.

That sounds awsome! Would he do another FD TB/manifold set?

Yes, it takes a few days to do.



JR will answer the phone tell him Jim sent you.



772-343-0510 - Just Racing Fabrications.

I would keep that mind should I ever swap manifolds and TBs.