Feve

I definetly need a new motor, or a rebuild. My compression is at 60. I did atf and water steamcleaning which made the car run better, but I still have my hot starting issues.



I also need a new turbo or a turbo rebuild, my turbos leaking oil .



My transmission is fucked, I thought it was my master / slave cylinders so I replaced them both, but I still have stupid shifting problems.



I am on the lookout for a cheap winter car, so I can park my seven early, and get if fixed over the winter and hopefully be rippin it as soon as spring hits

defprun

I'd also like a response to wether combustion chamber cleaner would be a good idea...like lucas or something.

Feve

Im not sure if I mentioned but when I changed my fuel injectors, I ran a compression test and was at 55 psi on both rotors. Today I FINALLY gave the car an oil change, and then drove around the block a couple times, and then took a compression test, and the gauge shows 85psi on both rotors I guess my motor isnt in as need of a rebuild as I thought.



Ive had a few people telling me that my compression should be 125psi, but my Haynes manual says that the compression is supposed to be 85 so going by the book my engines as strong as ever.



My transmission is still messed. my, I think its called release fork, is really lose you can wiggle it side to side front and back by reaching from the engine bay.



I am stoked that about my compression numbers because I didn't really want to rebuild my engine, or buy a new one. I'm not sure if I would even be able to rebuild it myself with my very little mechanical experience and lack of a garage lol.

Feve

I forgot to add, before I changed my oil, these past few days in the mornings my car refused to start, the temperature has dropped in the mornings here considerably.



So now I am having Hot-Start flooding problems, and Cold-star flooding problems, but when the temperature is about 30 degrees out, the car starts with NO problems at all. Ive been reading my manual alot the past few days about this, and thought maybe I had a messed cold start, so I went looking for it and it seems a past owner took the cold start system out.



Im not sure if changing the oil, and having my combustion chambers lubricated properly and compression up will change things or not, I guess I will find out tommoro morning.

Feve

Meh just an update, so far this is what I have done with the car since I got it in the spring.



- New: Air intake,

Spark Plugs,

Fuel Injectors,

o2 Sensor,

Fuel Filter,

Battery



-Changed the Oil (After I ran some atf through, and then steam cleaned the engine)



- Did a compression test, got even bounces at 85psi on both rotors.



The car runs quite rich, and idles at 1500rpm. When the temperature is cooler than 25 degrees Celsius, the car refuses to start, when I crank it the engine just floods itself.



When it is above 25 degrees Celsius and just nice and warm out, the car starts with no problem, although the past few days I've noticed a little puff of white smoke come out the exhaust when it starts.



My starting problems are definetely temperature related, I need some suggestions on what to do now, should I be checking my Water Thermal Sensor?



Also when the car is running, and I unplug the BACV, the idle doesn't change at all. Does this mean the BACV is broken?

fc3s4utnv

dude its an s4 dump all of the emissions and be done with it. then take it to a person that actually services rotaries instead of guessing at what you are doing. You can sit there and fiddle with it all day long and not accomplish anything...... take it to someone who knows what they are doing, or someone who can show you what to do.

Feve

Sorry I live in a little town called Medicine Hat, Alberta. There is nowhere within three hours that services rotarys. I kind of have to fix it all myself, or just dump the car (which isn't an option). Even if we did have a rotary shop, I don't have the money to pay $90 an hour to service my car.



The car was starting just FINE before on cold days, it is a recent problem that is just really starting to **** me off.



Anyways I finally found a couple good websites on FC's after googling all summer, so I don't have to rely on my service manual alone, or people on forums to help me with my car lol.



I found how to check ECU codes on my car by grounding some green wire, so I am going to attempt to locate that wire tommoro and see what my computer tells me.



I am positive my BACV is wrong like I mentioned before my idle doesn't change when I disconnect the wiring on it.

fc3s4utnv

Im telling you just block it all off and idle it up a few hundred rpm's. You wont be passing a smog check anytime soon if you do that though.

Feve

I am planning on buying a s5 in the spring, on ebay.ca I found a couple of places that sell full engine swaps, like for example



http://cgi.ebay.ca/JDM-MAZDA-RX7-13B-T-S5-...1QQcmdZViewItem





But until then I need to get my car to start I was hoping to drive the car in the winter to familiarize myself with it better. I am determined that the motor is still fine, compression test showed 100% consistant needle bounces at 85psi.



I will keep you posted on my luck getting this car to work right. But like I said before, the car starts 100% when its warm outside, like in the afternoon, but its just in the early morning, or when it rains that the car wont start.

Feve

Its been a while since I been here lol. So I just started work on the seven again, in my driveway. The temperature has gotten to +15, so I was hoping I might be able to start the seven, no luck. I tried to jump start it, ( had my buddy tow the car down the street with his truck ), still no start.



When I was tweaking here and there, I noticed if my keys in the on position, and my BACV is plugged in, it makes a rapid clicking noise (at first I thought it was an injector stuck open or something). I have a front mount intercooler set up, and the car has been hacked and modded, so the BACV has NO hoses or lines attatched too it. How do I just "block it all off" as fc3s4utnv suggests?



Oh ya, when I plug in my MAF with the key to on position, it makes a clicking noise somewhere in my throttle body, me and my dad could not detirmine the ezact location, but I was just wondering if anyone knows what this clicking noise would be?



Also, last fall, when I was first running into cold starting issues, I had a much easier time starting the car if I unplugged my MAF (of course I would have to get someone to plug it in for me while I kept the car alive because there is no limp mode). Does this point stricktly to a problem with my MAF?

I want to make sure before I go and spend $500 on a new MAF lol.