92.4 psi? Thats not right at all, it would NEVER be that high no matter what. Base fuel pressure is between 38-42..

Update:



After driving my FC for four days mostly just to and from work with my new injectors, suddenly on Saturday after driving the car around alot, then filling at the gas station, the car wouldnt start.



I pushed the car out of the gas pumps and to the side of the road, and tried unflooding with the good ol' EGI fuse switch, and had no luck.

After about 15 minutes I finally remembered what ColinRX7 said, and I tried cranking for a whole 30 seconds, I repeated this three times in a row, and then switched the EGI fuse to ON while cranking and the car started, then I accidently stalled it, and it flooded all over again and I had to crank it for 30 seconds again, which did work.

This kinda pissed me off because I had thought my new injectors had fixed my hot start/flooding issues.



Well anyways, I did a compression test on the rx7, what I did was disconnect my egi fuse, pull my trailing (top) spark plugs out, pull the pin thingy out of the guage, put the compression gauge in each hole and cranked a few times on each rotor. The compression gauge showed an even 60psi on each rotor.



According to my Haynes manual my compression should 80psi - 120psi :S. Now I have been reading all kinds of articles about pouring ATF into the rotor chambers and how it can raise your compression (in some cases by 20psi) so if I did that and it worked, theoretically my compression would be at 80psi which should be alright accordingly to the book. I am a little sketch about doing the ATF trick because it seems half the people are for it, and half the people are against it.



Also, on Saturday when we were fixing my steering play, we had to remove my intake from my turbo for room for the welder (yes we welded my steering shaft lol and its just a "bandaid" but thats another story.) anywho there was oil in my intake from my turbo :|. My buddy says It has to be a turbo seal, and that I will have to get a turbo rebuild or replacement :(. I am not sure if theres any other explanations to this, but I think I am SOL.

What do you guys think about MMO over ATF?

plain water would do better, steam cleaning....

water treatment got me about 10k more miles out of my old motor. what ever you do dont let it die! You will be pull starting it if you do.

With the car running you just throw some water down the intake?!

sorry.. but putting water in my engine sounds way to sketchy.. isnt that how you sieze an engine instantly??? Anywho I am going to try using Carb cleaner instead of ATF then if that doesnt work ill go with atf lol.

** er not carb cleaner, I meant combustion chamber cleaner. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR

definitely i did that on both my old n/a engines and it made a big diff in idle, power, etc. it sure as hell seemed. although this could be the fact that it cleans up the plugs a bit too. hehehe

I had the same problems on my S5 TII. No idle when cold and occasional starting issues. I kept driving it until it got worse. No idle when cold, no idle when warm, hot starting problems and flooding issues. I thought it was leaking injectors and/or vacuum leak. So I got the injectors cleaned and reinstalled them, checked all vacuum hoses for leaks but still had problems.

I eventually took it to my local rotary workshop (we're privalleged to have a fair few here in Australia https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR ) where he did a compression test and found low compression. So I had the motor rebuilt (new mazda housings with street/extend port, stronger 2mm seals) and now it runs perfect.



Basically what I'm saying is that you may need to expect that a rebuild is on the books.