Last year my buddy traded his blazer for a rx-7. Shortly the clutch blew on him and he parked it and got a 240sx. I seen the rx7 sitting at his house one day for the first time and asked him about it, he sold it to me for $2000 as-is a month ago. My dad put a new clutch in it, and now it is my daily driver (first car, first 5 speed. my first vehicle was an automatic nissan truck but I only drove it for half a year).



I finally have money (summer labour jobs rule) to fix my FC. I decided to post some pics and just kinda blog the progress on this thread. I will post all the cars mechancial problems later.



note all pictures have super reduced quality and were taken by my cellphone*

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Broken center console (1) Duck Tape to cover vaccumm leaks (2)

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Engine Bay

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Interior, no carpet or back seats in back.

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Front mount intercooler and broken mirror (both mirrors are broken)

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red door handle (1) very cheap paint on hood, and crunched bottom left corner (2) more cheap paint on passenger door handle, also notice car has been curbed.

right hand drive. turbo. a jdm????--- you bastard. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.gif

I think your car got some kind of computer virus. It's all hacked up.







That's a great project car for you, most of that stuff you can fix up pretty inexpensively, should be alot of fun!

Do you have to pass emissions where your at? will it pass?



Just wondering.

No we don't have emissions here. One of the upgrades done to the car before I bought it was the removal of the catalyctic converter.



So far heres my list on problems with the car (It grows almost by the day lol):



Broken Driverside (right side) door handle

Broken Mirrors

Hardly any interior

Major Hot Starting problem

Major steering problem (lots of play in steering)

Cold car will not idle

Car is really hard to shift, I have to double clutch (Dad says its Master and/or slave cylinder)



Theres probally more I cant think of right now.. but like Colinrx7 said, great project car, I am learning so much because I pretty much have to fix everything myself.



I love the fact that in the future I'll have conversations like this "My first car was a neon" "Mine was a sunfire" (Me) "My first car was a RHD Turbocharged RX-7"... hehe.

No emissions...you son of a bitch!!!



/wrists

They removed the airpump but not the power steering/ac?

nice project, car seems solid, just needs a bunch of little stuff. when you're finished it'll make a big improvement

lol nope i still got power steering and ac (which I dont use because it robs power and gas(in the long run) :P). ya its a fun learning experience. right now my major problem is steering, I have a good five inches of play in the steering which makes it hard to control the car. Does anyone know of any steering articles they could maybe link me to?



edit* my Dad looked at the steering and said I need a intermediate shaft (thats what the manual calls it). Is there any other names for this part so I can try and locate it?

update* I got my intake XD



I forgot to order a MAF adapter for it though :( so I have to wait till that gets here from ontario now lol.



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Maybe in your power steering you just need a fluid change....if you havent done it already.

I experienced my car flooding super bad today.. No matter how much I tried the unflooding procedure, it just wouldnt start. I had to push the car down a hill to get it to start, once it started it puked black smoke. I read this http://www.rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html



Im going to try the ATF thing, and I am going to oder some new spark plugs. I was wondering what plugs should I order, I have no idea. I seen these greddy plugs but I dont know what type to order.

Get plugs from the dealer for now. If you tell them what kind of car you have theyll order them up for ya.



Don't try the ATF thing yet!!!

Dont ATF it...



You should use that EGI cutout switch. How is yours wired again?



If you car floods (for both scenarios), shut off the EGI, and hold you foot wide open throttle, and crank. This will a) kill your injectors, or b) kill your injectors and ignition.



a) It will crank for a while, sputter, and it will run on the remnants of fuel left in the combustion chamber. Let it run until it dies, which indicates the chambers are dry of fuel. Turn the EGI back on and it should fire up no problem. Letting more air in increases the chance of making the proper AFR to get ignition and begin idling. Fuel will keep getting swept out the exhaust port, lowering the amount of fuel to air until it catches.



b) Crank it for 30 seconds, wait two minutes. Crank for 30 seconds, wait two minutes. Turn EGI back on, and try. 30 seconds is the maximum amount of time you can run a starter without any damage. Two minutes becomes the minimum wait time after a 30 second cycle. Rotary engines will push excess fuel out the exhaust port, so cranking it over for a full minute total will literally wipe the gas out of the chambers enough to get it started. WOT here assists pushing the fuel out, since there is no new injection event, and no ignition event happening, the combustion chamber pressurizes higher versus closed throttle at compression cycle and will help move particles towards the exhaust port.





It helps to know when your car is exhibiting signs of flooding when you crank, so you can minimalize the amount of time your cranking with the EGI working to inject more fuel (thus compounding the problem). You'll get to know the car a little better, the first flood is always the worst.

Today I had another flooding encounter, and I noticed fuel leaking out of the bottom of the car. Dad says I have leaking fuel injectors.



I am ordering new injectors and spark plugs at the speed shop tommoro.



About ATF flush, why do you warn against it? I have read all over the internet (forums and such) that it is a common fix for bad flooding problems.





My Dad (Mechanic for over 20 years now) says if I crank a starter for 30 seconds its going to destroy it, I normally crank it for about 5 seconds, then repeat about 5 times so that should make the same difference.



About my EGI switch, the switch is under my seat, hooked to the egi fuse of course. Normally when I start the car, I crank with the EGI switch off, and then after it cranks for half a second I switch it on and the car fires up. When the car doesnt start, I normally have to repeat this a couple times for the car to start and I always smell fuel.



Now yesterday, and today, nomatter how many combinations of using my switch, cranking it, and flooring my gas pedal, it would not start.



Thanks for the all the suggestions and help!

sounds to me like you have a leaking pulsaition damper. very bad many have been lost to fire because of this. you dont need new injectors just pull yours and get them cleaned and balanced.





FYI, start saving for a rebuild if you having that many problems.

No.



Peak torque occurs when the starter motor begins to crank. The starter may use ~100a to begin turning the motor over (since everything has stopped moving, it takes MORE work to make it start to turn), and then it will drop to, say ~40a or less during cranking.



1 second at ~100a and 29 seconds at 40a or less with a minimum two minute break in between for cooling is far better than 1 second at ~100a and 4 seconds at 40a or less, with a five second break for cooling. The starter motor will see peak torque way more often than it should, and it will burn itself out.



If you don't buy it, get an ammeter and hook it up to the starter, and watch the amps when you crank it at dead stop versus letting the starter crank at it's speed.





BTW, I really speculate you have a leaky pulsation dampener. It's way more common than leaky injectors (which don't require replacement to be repaired). Much easier repair than changing out all the injectors.









Whoever you chose to listen to, just remember the people here offering advice have had the issues, went through the bullshit to figure out what it is, and can offer typical scenarios based on the THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE that come here and think they have a wierd issue that turns out to be something we all see all the time. Don't waste your money, or your time. Have a looksee at the pulsation dampener. Not sure how or where? Just ask. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.gif















Oh and about the ATF, automatic transmission fluid is known to be detrimental to certain types of rubbers/seals. The kind of seals and stuff that you won't find inside an automatic transmission, because the transmission is understood to be using ATF. Inside your rotary engine, is oil seals in the rotors to prevent excess case oil from getting into the combustion cycle. Those seals are not compatable with ATF.

Okay heres where I currently stand:



I replaced my fuel filter today (by myself https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...) then after I did a fuel pressure test and got 50psi reading :S my service manual says it should be 92.4psi.



I have 4 NGK Laser Platinum spark plugs on the way.



I bought 4 Precision fuel injectors, two 550cc primary two 880cc secondary. Me and my buddy put them in.. backwards, *we thought the 880cc were the primary.. so now we are going to reverse them tommoro.



After we put in the injectors the car really had trouble starting, I had to crank for like ten seconds, and then floor the gas pedal to keep it running, and once it was running it would not hold an idle at all.



My current theory is that the fuel pump isnt pushing enough fuel to the "880cc Primary*" fuel injector, which as I understand the primary injectors is for starting the car, and idleing it so I am really hoping once I reverse the injectors, the starting problem will be fixed, all though I will still need to buy a fuel pump to support the 880cc secondarys for when im driving the car.



I also got my new master and slave cylinders I still have to put them in the car. I found Convertible Kouki door mirrors for my car, and then found out that they arnt compatable with RHD, so I can see out my drivers side mirror but the passenger side just looks at the side of the car, or the ground :@.



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door handle! installed all by myself!



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Kouki Door Mirror



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Cluch cylinders

Ok , here is the deal man :



Those injectors deliver more volume of fuel per shot than those 550s that are suppost to be in the primary spot.



So, holding down the throttle allows the extra air in to bring up the AFR to a ratio the motor can actually run at . The ECU thinks its got 550s running the primary bank but you got it extra juiced up with 880s! No worries, just switch them around.



Now, somebody can say here, factory secondaries are 720s, I think. I dont know if you can jump to those 880s on a factory computer. I dont think you can. You got the right type of impedance when you got there new ones, yes?



And, where did you get the 100 psi of fuel pressure from? Sounds like your fuel pressure is normal to me. Factory FPR dumps off around 50 psi.

I just got home from switching the injectors around, had a little trouble with a coolant hose that BROKE off a fitting on the intake manifold, so had to tap and die that back together, got all that fun stuff done, put the car back together, turned my key, VROOM!! Fired up, then died. I tried again this time when it started I kept it idleing with the gas pedal, after five minutes it held itself at around 1100rpm.



I drove the car home from my buddys garage, holy smokes, felt like a brand new car! I cant wait till tommoro morning so I can drive to work lol!



Oh ya btw It wasnt 880cc injector, it was 780cc injector. I am not sure how the car will handle the 780cc one yet because my stock fuel pump is only* spraying 50psi , I am going to try bringing my rpms above 3000 tommoro.



*(I say only because service manual says it should be 92.4)



Now next project will be my clutch cylinders, and fixing my loose steering problem.

92.4 psi? Thats not right at all, it would NEVER be that high no matter what. Base fuel pressure is between 38-42..

Update:



After driving my FC for four days mostly just to and from work with my new injectors, suddenly on Saturday after driving the car around alot, then filling at the gas station, the car wouldnt start.



I pushed the car out of the gas pumps and to the side of the road, and tried unflooding with the good ol' EGI fuse switch, and had no luck.

After about 15 minutes I finally remembered what ColinRX7 said, and I tried cranking for a whole 30 seconds, I repeated this three times in a row, and then switched the EGI fuse to ON while cranking and the car started, then I accidently stalled it, and it flooded all over again and I had to crank it for 30 seconds again, which did work.

This kinda pissed me off because I had thought my new injectors had fixed my hot start/flooding issues.



Well anyways, I did a compression test on the rx7, what I did was disconnect my egi fuse, pull my trailing (top) spark plugs out, pull the pin thingy out of the guage, put the compression gauge in each hole and cranked a few times on each rotor. The compression gauge showed an even 60psi on each rotor.



According to my Haynes manual my compression should 80psi - 120psi :S. Now I have been reading all kinds of articles about pouring ATF into the rotor chambers and how it can raise your compression (in some cases by 20psi) so if I did that and it worked, theoretically my compression would be at 80psi which should be alright accordingly to the book. I am a little sketch about doing the ATF trick because it seems half the people are for it, and half the people are against it.



Also, on Saturday when we were fixing my steering play, we had to remove my intake from my turbo for room for the welder (yes we welded my steering shaft lol and its just a "bandaid" but thats another story.) anywho there was oil in my intake from my turbo :|. My buddy says It has to be a turbo seal, and that I will have to get a turbo rebuild or replacement :(. I am not sure if theres any other explanations to this, but I think I am SOL.

What do you guys think about MMO over ATF?

plain water would do better, steam cleaning....

water treatment got me about 10k more miles out of my old motor. what ever you do dont let it die! You will be pull starting it if you do.

With the car running you just throw some water down the intake?!

sorry.. but putting water in my engine sounds way to sketchy.. isnt that how you sieze an engine instantly??? Anywho I am going to try using Carb cleaner instead of ATF then if that doesnt work ill go with atf lol.

** er not carb cleaner, I meant combustion chamber cleaner. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR

definitely i did that on both my old n/a engines and it made a big diff in idle, power, etc. it sure as hell seemed. although this could be the fact that it cleans up the plugs a bit too. hehehe

I had the same problems on my S5 TII. No idle when cold and occasional starting issues. I kept driving it until it got worse. No idle when cold, no idle when warm, hot starting problems and flooding issues. I thought it was leaking injectors and/or vacuum leak. So I got the injectors cleaned and reinstalled them, checked all vacuum hoses for leaks but still had problems.

I eventually took it to my local rotary workshop (we're privalleged to have a fair few here in Australia https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR ) where he did a compression test and found low compression. So I had the motor rebuilt (new mazda housings with street/extend port, stronger 2mm seals) and now it runs perfect.



Basically what I'm saying is that you may need to expect that a rebuild is on the books.

I definetly need a new motor, or a rebuild. My compression is at 60. I did atf and water steamcleaning which made the car run better, but I still have my hot starting issues.



I also need a new turbo or a turbo rebuild, my turbos leaking oil :(.



My transmission is fucked, I thought it was my master / slave cylinders so I replaced them both, but I still have stupid shifting problems.



I am on the lookout for a cheap winter car, so I can park my seven early, and get if fixed over the winter and hopefully be rippin it as soon as spring hits https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...

I'd also like a response to wether combustion chamber cleaner would be a good idea...like lucas or something.

Im not sure if I mentioned but when I changed my fuel injectors, I ran a compression test and was at 55 psi on both rotors. Today I FINALLY gave the car an oil change, and then drove around the block a couple times, and then took a compression test, and the gauge shows 85psi on both rotors https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.gif I guess my motor isnt in as need of a rebuild as I thought.



Ive had a few people telling me that my compression should be 125psi, but my Haynes manual says that the compression is supposed to be 85 so going by the book my engines as strong as ever.



My transmission is still messed. my, I think its called release fork, is really lose you can wiggle it side to side front and back by reaching from the engine bay.



I am stoked that about my compression numbers because I didn't really want to rebuild my engine, or buy a new one. I'm not sure if I would even be able to rebuild it myself with my very little mechanical experience and lack of a garage lol.

I forgot to add, before I changed my oil, these past few days in the mornings my car refused to start, the temperature has dropped in the mornings here considerably.



So now I am having Hot-Start flooding problems, and Cold-star flooding problems, but when the temperature is about 30 degrees out, the car starts with NO problems at all. Ive been reading my manual alot the past few days about this, and thought maybe I had a messed cold start, so I went looking for it and it seems a past owner took the cold start system out.



Im not sure if changing the oil, and having my combustion chambers lubricated properly and compression up will change things or not, I guess I will find out tommoro morning.

Meh just an update, so far this is what I have done with the car since I got it in the spring.



- New: Air intake,

Spark Plugs,

Fuel Injectors,

o2 Sensor,

Fuel Filter,

Battery



-Changed the Oil (After I ran some atf through, and then steam cleaned the engine)



- Did a compression test, got even bounces at 85psi on both rotors.



The car runs quite rich, and idles at 1500rpm. When the temperature is cooler than 25 degrees Celsius, the car refuses to start, when I crank it the engine just floods itself.



When it is above 25 degrees Celsius and just nice and warm out, the car starts with no problem, although the past few days I've noticed a little puff of white smoke come out the exhaust when it starts.



My starting problems are definetely temperature related, I need some suggestions on what to do now, should I be checking my Water Thermal Sensor?



Also when the car is running, and I unplug the BACV, the idle doesn't change at all. Does this mean the BACV is broken?

dude its an s4 dump all of the emissions and be done with it. then take it to a person that actually services rotaries instead of guessing at what you are doing. You can sit there and fiddle with it all day long and not accomplish anything...... take it to someone who knows what they are doing, or someone who can show you what to do.

Sorry I live in a little town called Medicine Hat, Alberta. There is nowhere within three hours that services rotarys. I kind of have to fix it all myself, or just dump the car (which isn't an option). Even if we did have a rotary shop, I don't have the money to pay $90 an hour to service my car.



The car was starting just FINE before on cold days, it is a recent problem that is just really starting to piss me off.



Anyways I finally found a couple good websites on FC's after googling all summer, so I don't have to rely on my service manual alone, or people on forums to help me with my car lol.



I found how to check ECU codes on my car by grounding some green wire, so I am going to attempt to locate that wire tommoro and see what my computer tells me.



I am positive my BACV is wrong like I mentioned before my idle doesn't change when I disconnect the wiring on it.

Im telling you just block it all off and idle it up a few hundred rpm's. You wont be passing a smog check anytime soon if you do that though.

I am planning on buying a s5 in the spring, on ebay.ca I found a couple of places that sell full engine swaps, like for example



http://cgi.ebay.ca/JDM-MAZDA-RX7-13B-T-S5-...1QQcmdZViewItem





But until then I need to get my car to start I was hoping to drive the car in the winter to familiarize myself with it better. I am determined that the motor is still fine, compression test showed 100% consistant needle bounces at 85psi.



I will keep you posted on my luck getting this car to work right. But like I said before, the car starts 100% when its warm outside, like in the afternoon, but its just in the early morning, or when it rains that the car wont start.

Its been a while since I been here lol. So I just started work on the seven again, in my driveway. The temperature has gotten to +15, so I was hoping I might be able to start the seven, no luck. I tried to jump start it, ( had my buddy tow the car down the street with his truck ), still no start.



When I was tweaking here and there, I noticed if my keys in the on position, and my BACV is plugged in, it makes a rapid clicking noise (at first I thought it was an injector stuck open or something). I have a front mount intercooler set up, and the car has been hacked and modded, so the BACV has NO hoses or lines attatched too it. How do I just "block it all off" as fc3s4utnv suggests?



Oh ya, when I plug in my MAF with the key to on position, it makes a clicking noise somewhere in my throttle body, me and my dad could not detirmine the ezact location, but I was just wondering if anyone knows what this clicking noise would be?



Also, last fall, when I was first running into cold starting issues, I had a much easier time starting the car if I unplugged my MAF (of course I would have to get someone to plug it in for me while I kept the car alive because there is no limp mode). Does this point stricktly to a problem with my MAF?

I want to make sure before I go and spend $500 on a new MAF lol.