defprun

Maybe in your power steering you just need a fluid change....if you havent done it already.

Feve

I experienced my car flooding super bad today.. No matter how much I tried the unflooding procedure, it just wouldnt start. I had to push the car down a hill to get it to start, once it started it puked black smoke. I read this http://www.rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html



Im going to try the ATF thing, and I am going to oder some new spark plugs. I was wondering what plugs should I order, I have no idea. I seen these greddy plugs but I dont know what type to order.

defprun

Get plugs from the dealer for now. If you tell them what kind of car you have theyll order them up for ya.



Don't try the ATF thing yet!!!

ColinRX7

Dont ATF it...



You should use that EGI cutout switch. How is yours wired again?



If you car floods (for both scenarios), shut off the EGI, and hold you foot wide open throttle, and crank. This will a) kill your injectors, or b) kill your injectors and ignition.



a) It will crank for a while, sputter, and it will run on the remnants of fuel left in the combustion chamber. Let it run until it dies, which indicates the chambers are dry of fuel. Turn the EGI back on and it should fire up no problem. Letting more air in increases the chance of making the proper AFR to get ignition and begin idling. Fuel will keep getting swept out the exhaust port, lowering the amount of fuel to air until it catches.



b) Crank it for 30 seconds, wait two minutes. Crank for 30 seconds, wait two minutes. Turn EGI back on, and try. 30 seconds is the maximum amount of time you can run a starter without any damage. Two minutes becomes the minimum wait time after a 30 second cycle. Rotary engines will push excess fuel out the exhaust port, so cranking it over for a full minute total will literally wipe the gas out of the chambers enough to get it started. WOT here assists pushing the fuel out, since there is no new injection event, and no ignition event happening, the combustion chamber pressurizes higher versus closed throttle at compression cycle and will help move particles towards the exhaust port.





It helps to know when your car is exhibiting signs of flooding when you crank, so you can minimalize the amount of time your cranking with the EGI working to inject more fuel (thus compounding the problem). You'll get to know the car a little better, the first flood is always the worst.

Feve

Today I had another flooding encounter, and I noticed fuel leaking out of the bottom of the car. Dad says I have leaking fuel injectors.



I am ordering new injectors and spark plugs at the speed shop tommoro.



About ATF flush, why do you warn against it? I have read all over the internet (forums and such) that it is a common fix for bad flooding problems.





My Dad (Mechanic for over 20 years now) says if I crank a starter for 30 seconds its going to destroy it, I normally crank it for about 5 seconds, then repeat about 5 times so that should make the same difference.



About my EGI switch, the switch is under my seat, hooked to the egi fuse of course. Normally when I start the car, I crank with the EGI switch off, and then after it cranks for half a second I switch it on and the car fires up. When the car doesnt start, I normally have to repeat this a couple times for the car to start and I always smell fuel.



Now yesterday, and today, nomatter how many combinations of using my switch, cranking it, and flooring my gas pedal, it would not start.



Thanks for the all the suggestions and help!

fc3s4utnv

sounds to me like you have a leaking pulsaition damper. very bad many have been lost to fire because of this. you dont need new injectors just pull yours and get them cleaned and balanced.





FYI, start saving for a rebuild if you having that many problems.

ColinRX7

No.



Peak torque occurs when the starter motor begins to crank. The starter may use ~100a to begin turning the motor over (since everything has stopped moving, it takes MORE work to make it start to turn), and then it will drop to, say ~40a or less during cranking.



1 second at ~100a and 29 seconds at 40a or less with a minimum two minute break in between for cooling is far better than 1 second at ~100a and 4 seconds at 40a or less, with a five second break for cooling. The starter motor will see peak torque way more often than it should, and it will burn itself out.



If you don't buy it, get an ammeter and hook it up to the starter, and watch the amps when you crank it at dead stop versus letting the starter crank at it's speed.





BTW, I really speculate you have a leaky pulsation dampener. It's way more common than leaky injectors (which don't require replacement to be repaired). Much easier repair than changing out all the injectors.









Whoever you chose to listen to, just remember the people here offering advice have had the issues, went through the bullshit to figure out what it is, and can offer typical scenarios based on the THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE that come here and think they have a wierd issue that turns out to be something we all see all the time. Don't waste your money, or your time. Have a looksee at the pulsation dampener. Not sure how or where? Just ask.















Oh and about the ATF, automatic transmission fluid is known to be detrimental to certain types of rubbers/seals. The kind of seals and stuff that you won't find inside an automatic transmission, because the transmission is understood to be using ATF. Inside your rotary engine, is oil seals in the rotors to prevent excess case oil from getting into the combustion cycle. Those seals are not compatable with ATF.

Feve

Okay heres where I currently stand:



I replaced my fuel filter today (by myself ) then after I did a fuel pressure test and got 50psi reading :S my service manual says it should be 92.4psi.



I have 4 NGK Laser Platinum spark plugs on the way.



I bought 4 Precision fuel injectors, two 550cc primary two 880cc secondary. Me and my buddy put them in.. backwards, *we thought the 880cc were the primary.. so now we are going to reverse them tommoro.



After we put in the injectors the car really had trouble starting, I had to crank for like ten seconds, and then floor the gas pedal to keep it running, and once it was running it would not hold an idle at all.



My current theory is that the fuel pump isnt pushing enough fuel to the "880cc Primary*" fuel injector, which as I understand the primary injectors is for starting the car, and idleing it so I am really hoping once I reverse the injectors, the starting problem will be fixed, all though I will still need to buy a fuel pump to support the 880cc secondarys for when im driving the car.



I also got my new master and slave cylinders I still have to put them in the car. I found Convertible Kouki door mirrors for my car, and then found out that they arnt compatable with RHD, so I can see out my drivers side mirror but the passenger side just looks at the side of the car, or the ground :@.



[attachment=44760SC01263.jpg]

door handle! installed all by myself!



[attachment=44761SC01281.jpg]

Kouki Door Mirror



[attachment=44762SC01292.jpg]

Cluch cylinders

ColinRX7

Ok , here is the deal man :



Those injectors deliver more volume of fuel per shot than those 550s that are suppost to be in the primary spot.



So, holding down the throttle allows the extra air in to bring up the AFR to a ratio the motor can actually run at . The ECU thinks its got 550s running the primary bank but you got it extra juiced up with 880s! No worries, just switch them around.



Now, somebody can say here, factory secondaries are 720s, I think. I dont know if you can jump to those 880s on a factory computer. I dont think you can. You got the right type of impedance when you got there new ones, yes?



And, where did you get the 100 psi of fuel pressure from? Sounds like your fuel pressure is normal to me. Factory FPR dumps off around 50 psi.

Feve

I just got home from switching the injectors around, had a little trouble with a coolant hose that BROKE off a fitting on the intake manifold, so had to tap and die that back together, got all that fun stuff done, put the car back together, turned my key, VROOM!! Fired up, then died. I tried again this time when it started I kept it idleing with the gas pedal, after five minutes it held itself at around 1100rpm.



I drove the car home from my buddys garage, holy smokes, felt like a brand new car! I cant wait till tommoro morning so I can drive to work lol!



Oh ya btw It wasnt 880cc injector, it was 780cc injector. I am not sure how the car will handle the 780cc one yet because my stock fuel pump is only* spraying 50psi , I am going to try bringing my rpms above 3000 tommoro.



*(I say only because service manual says it should be 92.4)



Now next project will be my clutch cylinders, and fixing my loose steering problem.