FC3S Project
01-17-2008, 03:55 PM
#61
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
pushed the car outside for a look under normal daylight, but damn thta looks sexy!
mounted the plug wires, also wired the battery cables to the trunk
i sold the stock radiator some time ago, but i found out that i forgot to take the brackets off before i sold it, so i had to make new ones.
then mounted the new fan to those brackets
hooked up the Greddy boost controller solenoid
moved the Sard FPR, cause i ran into some troubles fitting the intercooler to the throttlebody
i have a deadline: 29 february! that day i have an appointment to get the car tuned on the dyno, so 1st of March i will be back on the road!
only thing thats been a little set-back is delivery of the Red intercooler hoses, which are awfully delayed. looks like i am not going to have them in time for the dyno, so for now i will be using blue hoses just to get all things running...
mounted the plug wires, also wired the battery cables to the trunk
i sold the stock radiator some time ago, but i found out that i forgot to take the brackets off before i sold it, so i had to make new ones.
then mounted the new fan to those brackets
hooked up the Greddy boost controller solenoid
moved the Sard FPR, cause i ran into some troubles fitting the intercooler to the throttlebody
i have a deadline: 29 february! that day i have an appointment to get the car tuned on the dyno, so 1st of March i will be back on the road!
only thing thats been a little set-back is delivery of the Red intercooler hoses, which are awfully delayed. looks like i am not going to have them in time for the dyno, so for now i will be using blue hoses just to get all things running...
01-17-2008, 04:48 PM
#62
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
two minor things:
1) your Driver's side front tire is on backwards.
2) that front brake line setup, even tho it will feel fine to your foot isn't how to do it. you want to split the front line after the proportioning valve not before it. your L/F brake is going to do more braking then your R/F with that setup, and depending on how bad it may pull your car to the left when you step on the brake.
kevin.
1) your Driver's side front tire is on backwards.
2) that front brake line setup, even tho it will feel fine to your foot isn't how to do it. you want to split the front line after the proportioning valve not before it. your L/F brake is going to do more braking then your R/F with that setup, and depending on how bad it may pull your car to the left when you step on the brake.
kevin.
01-17-2008, 11:46 PM
#64
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by teknics' post='892446' date='Jan 17 2008, 11:48 PM
1) your Driver's side front tire is on backwards.
2) that front brake line setup, even tho it will feel fine to your foot isn't how to do it. you want to split the front line after the proportioning valve not before it. your L/F brake is going to do more braking then your R/F with that setup, and depending on how bad it may pull your car to the left when you step on the brake.
2) that front brake line setup, even tho it will feel fine to your foot isn't how to do it. you want to split the front line after the proportioning valve not before it. your L/F brake is going to do more braking then your R/F with that setup, and depending on how bad it may pull your car to the left when you step on the brake.
1. so is the right rear tire, i just put on those wheels for rolling it onto the trailer to the paintshop. so doesnt even matter which way they are on.
2. the stock NON-ABS master cilinder has the connection on the bottom. so then the front left brake is also BEFORE the proportioning valve!
i was thinking about splicing it after the valve, but if the mazda engineers made it this way, then it should be fine dont you think...
01-17-2008, 11:48 PM
#65
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' post='892450' date='Jan 18 2008, 12:27 AM
You should be running a parallel fuel system, not in series.
this is fine for now. when i'm upgrading my turbo i will need even bigger injectors anyways. when i am at that point, all of the stock stuff will make way for new parrallel fuel rails
01-18-2008, 05:08 PM
#66
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
Originally Posted by Furb' post='892480' date='Jan 18 2008, 12:46 AM
2. the stock NON-ABS master cilinder has the connection on the bottom. so then the front left brake is also BEFORE the proportioning valve!
i was thinking about splicing it after the valve, but if the mazda engineers made it this way, then it should be fine dont you think...
i was thinking about splicing it after the valve, but if the mazda engineers made it this way, then it should be fine dont you think...
non-abs master has a proportioning valve inside the master.
kevin.
01-19-2008, 11:46 AM
#68
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
mounted the Racing Beat exhaust today, fitment is absolutely perfect!
only thing is that i have the GP-sports bodykit and now the endtips had to come down just a little, so i took out the torch again
the end tips are also a little too far in, you cant even see them from the side. so i have to bring them out some more.
otherwise there will also be a slight chance of setting the bumper on fire when this baby shoots flames...
only thing is that i have the GP-sports bodykit and now the endtips had to come down just a little, so i took out the torch again
the end tips are also a little too far in, you cant even see them from the side. so i have to bring them out some more.
otherwise there will also be a slight chance of setting the bumper on fire when this baby shoots flames...
01-27-2008, 04:53 AM
#69
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
in between some shots of our garage, where we have a installed a new toy
cant wait to get back on the road again!
short update on the project
this week i will be receiving the final parts to finish up and start the engine
- my yoohoo belts for the waterpump
- hoses for the intercooler
then some last electric work for all the gauges and stuff and start filling upwith oil and coolant
i think i will be ready for starting by next weekend...
in 2,5-3 weeks i think i will be ready to get back on the road, cause in 2 weeks my big brake kit will come in and thats the final thing i need!
cant wait to get back on the road again!
short update on the project
this week i will be receiving the final parts to finish up and start the engine
- my yoohoo belts for the waterpump
- hoses for the intercooler
then some last electric work for all the gauges and stuff and start filling upwith oil and coolant
i think i will be ready for starting by next weekend...
in 2,5-3 weeks i think i will be ready to get back on the road, cause in 2 weeks my big brake kit will come in and thats the final thing i need!
