FC3S Project
02-15-2008, 11:13 AM
#91
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by MarcoPyro' post='894551' date='Feb 15 2008, 04:24 PM
Is that a good tire/wheel size combination for a somewhat standard suspension set up also? Everyone always posts what size wheels they have but no one ever puts up the offset...
NO...
wheels and tires that width and offset will NOT fit with stock suspension, FINAL...
my wheels are all ligned up with the fenders, in front i have 5mm between the rim and coilover, in the rear about 1 finger.
so either get coilovers, or smaller wheels/tires
02-17-2008, 01:14 PM
#93
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
took it out for a little spin in the sun today! also found some minor things i needed to fix, but all is well now...
cant wait to get the car tuned properly
ofcourse some pics of the car together in one piece (watch the nice ghetto hood strut)
cant wait to get the car tuned properly
ofcourse some pics of the car together in one piece (watch the nice ghetto hood strut
03-02-2008, 12:39 PM
#94
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
ok guys, i have a major problem with my car and need some help or idea's. please read the following carefully before posting...!
to make a long story short, tuning my car didn't go as hoped...
i'll try to describe the problems the best i can, hoping you will do some serious thinking with me, seeing that myself and the guys who were tuning my car, don't have any clue on what the hell is going on!
it all starts about 1 year ago when i had some hesitation, and went to my rotary specialist to figure out the problem. it turned out to be a malfunctioning MAF. but in the process of finding the problem we had some hoses changed or unplugged to raise boost. then it hit 0,6bar with no problems or strange noises, we changed it all back to factory boost level. i can remember this: it felt a LOT quicker!
when i started to work on the car last september, the engine was still stock, i had just removed the power steering and A/C, and put on the racingbeat sparkplugs. then i took it for a spin and heard a strange noise coming from the engine and went to check it all out. it sounded like a ticking noise when i hit full boost (stock 0,5bar)
started searching, not knowing what it could be and then i found my fucked up turbo and thought that was it...
last friday i went to a company, who races FC's here in Holland, to get the car tuned.
we started out removing the factory fuel-cut and adjusting fuel @ stock boost (a lower 0,35-0,4bar due to my ported wastegate), no problems there.
all went well and we could be turning up the boost a little.
then all of a sudden, at just 0,5bar, again the same sound! they told me it was detonating like crazy... sounded like someone banging on the floor with a hammer!
we tried many things to figure out where it was coming from, but no luck.
mixture is fine, timing was at zero.
when we advanced the timing a lot, detonation no longer occurred, and we hit 0,9bar.
but then the timing was probably so advanced, that it did not really produce any more power.
they have tried building an engine with non-turbo rotors once and got about the same results.
detonating like crazy on just 0,4-0,5bar
so we compared it to a turboII engine they had, measuring the distance from the plughole to the rotors, they were pretty much the same (a bit hard to measure with the engine in the car) but not that much that it would indicate there would be the wrong rotors in my engine.
that was also almost impossible, due to the fact that i have hit 0,6bar before without any problems.
did a compression test: 6bar on both rotors and all the chambers, which is even a bit on the low side perhaps.
checked the plugs, coils, leads. they all work properly. even put on a stock pair of plugwires instead of the racing beat wires, but with those, the problem was probably even worse!
we decided to stop progress at this point and try to figure out what the problem is before we start spitting out apex seals...! at stock boost there is no problem at all, so i can run it safely for the moment.
so this strange problem was there a long time ago, and all my mods did not affect it and did not make it worse. so it would be safe to say those mods dont have anything to do with it and can be ruled out...
if anyone has any thoughts on this. dont hesitate to let me know!
to make a long story short, tuning my car didn't go as hoped...
i'll try to describe the problems the best i can, hoping you will do some serious thinking with me, seeing that myself and the guys who were tuning my car, don't have any clue on what the hell is going on!
it all starts about 1 year ago when i had some hesitation, and went to my rotary specialist to figure out the problem. it turned out to be a malfunctioning MAF. but in the process of finding the problem we had some hoses changed or unplugged to raise boost. then it hit 0,6bar with no problems or strange noises, we changed it all back to factory boost level. i can remember this: it felt a LOT quicker!
when i started to work on the car last september, the engine was still stock, i had just removed the power steering and A/C, and put on the racingbeat sparkplugs. then i took it for a spin and heard a strange noise coming from the engine and went to check it all out. it sounded like a ticking noise when i hit full boost (stock 0,5bar)
started searching, not knowing what it could be and then i found my fucked up turbo and thought that was it...
last friday i went to a company, who races FC's here in Holland, to get the car tuned.
we started out removing the factory fuel-cut and adjusting fuel @ stock boost (a lower 0,35-0,4bar due to my ported wastegate), no problems there.
all went well and we could be turning up the boost a little.
then all of a sudden, at just 0,5bar, again the same sound! they told me it was detonating like crazy... sounded like someone banging on the floor with a hammer!
we tried many things to figure out where it was coming from, but no luck.
mixture is fine, timing was at zero.
when we advanced the timing a lot, detonation no longer occurred, and we hit 0,9bar.
but then the timing was probably so advanced, that it did not really produce any more power.
they have tried building an engine with non-turbo rotors once and got about the same results.
detonating like crazy on just 0,4-0,5bar
so we compared it to a turboII engine they had, measuring the distance from the plughole to the rotors, they were pretty much the same (a bit hard to measure with the engine in the car) but not that much that it would indicate there would be the wrong rotors in my engine.
that was also almost impossible, due to the fact that i have hit 0,6bar before without any problems.
did a compression test: 6bar on both rotors and all the chambers, which is even a bit on the low side perhaps.
checked the plugs, coils, leads. they all work properly. even put on a stock pair of plugwires instead of the racing beat wires, but with those, the problem was probably even worse!
we decided to stop progress at this point and try to figure out what the problem is before we start spitting out apex seals...! at stock boost there is no problem at all, so i can run it safely for the moment.
so this strange problem was there a long time ago, and all my mods did not affect it and did not make it worse. so it would be safe to say those mods dont have anything to do with it and can be ruled out...
if anyone has any thoughts on this. dont hesitate to let me know!
03-03-2008, 07:26 AM
#97
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Miami, Florida
Posts: 1,591
that is kind of strange that advancing it got rid of detonation that goes against everything i have been taught LOL well i doubt you are having cooling issues since you have a good radiator and fan so that factor is out. with that front mount i cant imagine to high of intake temps so that is ruled out. you said your air/fuel ratios are good rules that out. maybe you want to run a colder spark plug i have seen some cars pre-ignite becaus of too hot a plug it was acting like a glow plug and when switched to a colder plug all was good. try changing your plugs to a colder one that might work for you if all else fails and all other possible solutions come to no avail.
*EDIT* I just re read your thread it seems your problems started after the racingbeat plugs went in get a new set of NGK OEM plugs the OEM plugs are bye far the best ones hands down. I had a set of HKS plugs in a Jspec motor I bought a while back that where brand new i put them on my N/A and the car did not feel any better after like 3 months they went bad and I used OEM ones no problem for the next year.
*EDIT* I just re read your thread it seems your problems started after the racingbeat plugs went in get a new set of NGK OEM plugs the OEM plugs are bye far the best ones hands down. I had a set of HKS plugs in a Jspec motor I bought a while back that where brand new i put them on my N/A and the car did not feel any better after like 3 months they went bad and I used OEM ones no problem for the next year.
03-03-2008, 11:03 AM
#98
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
indeed, thats what they said: this is the exact oposite of what normally has to be done...
we have tried putting on a pair of stock wires, but that almost made it worse! could the PS or A/C begin removed have anything to do with it? i know they send a signal to the ECU for some adjusting to raise idle a bit. maybe something there?
should new stock plugs with stock motor give any problems? dont believe that really...
today i went by another specialist who is really amazed by the problem as well, but we did some searching and did not really find anything. we did see that when from idle you give some throttle, the timing changes, and when letting of the throttle, it should return back to normal. this returning went a little stiff. only when the rpms went lower the timing would switch back to normal.
the CAS is working properly, so maybe the ECU is not changing the timing as it should. also when you connect the single green pin to ground, the CAS should stay locked. this does not work, so it still changes timing...
he is going to find another stock ECU for me, which he has lying around somewhere, and then see what happens.
we have tried putting on a pair of stock wires, but that almost made it worse! could the PS or A/C begin removed have anything to do with it? i know they send a signal to the ECU for some adjusting to raise idle a bit. maybe something there?
should new stock plugs with stock motor give any problems? dont believe that really...
today i went by another specialist who is really amazed by the problem as well, but we did some searching and did not really find anything. we did see that when from idle you give some throttle, the timing changes, and when letting of the throttle, it should return back to normal. this returning went a little stiff. only when the rpms went lower the timing would switch back to normal.
the CAS is working properly, so maybe the ECU is not changing the timing as it should. also when you connect the single green pin to ground, the CAS should stay locked. this does not work, so it still changes timing...
he is going to find another stock ECU for me, which he has lying around somewhere, and then see what happens.
05-17-2008, 04:39 AM
#99
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
all problems are solved! turned out to be something fairly easy....
i upped the fuel pressure to 4.5bar at full throttle and replaced the plugs with NGK B9EGV. now there is no more detonation!
in a few weeks i will be updating with new pics, specs and dynosheets!
i upped the fuel pressure to 4.5bar at full throttle and replaced the plugs with NGK B9EGV. now there is no more detonation!
in a few weeks i will be updating with new pics, specs and dynosheets!
08-23-2008, 09:57 AM
#100
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 89
after a long time of insecurity and setbacks it has all come together in the end.
in february the engine was ready for tuning, but fun was over when we got detonation when boost raised above 7psi. we mapped it at stock boost for the moment and power was still already about 250hp instead of the stock 200hp
it took me quite some time to get the info to solve the problems, but it payed off in the end! the cure appeared to be fairly easy as i changed to different sparkplugs (B9EGV) and cranked up the fuel pressure to 65psi at full load.
2nd attempt:
still didn't go as planned... thank god i had no more detonation, but we ran into some other troubles. at 15psi the engine stopped producing power after 5k rpm and stopped accelerating. we got stuck on 290hp...
also another problem...
i replaced the OMP-lines by different ones, but it appeared they could not stand the heat as well as i thought they would.
they became soft and got loose on the OMP and due to my fan right in front of it, the entire car got a shower of fine oil-mist.
we decided to stop at that point and replace the lines before we did damage to the engine.
not long after that i got the new lines and ordered a HKS twinpower, because i had the idea that the lack of power was due to the fact that my ignition was not powerfull enough.
attempt number 3:
all went pretty smooth in comparison to the past. also the twinpower did its job, cause there was no more hesitation at high rpm's
now we are pretty much at the max for this setup, cause it is noticable that the stock engine and turbo cannot produce any more power right now.
final dyno figures: 305hp and 420Nm
in february the engine was ready for tuning, but fun was over when we got detonation when boost raised above 7psi. we mapped it at stock boost for the moment and power was still already about 250hp instead of the stock 200hp
it took me quite some time to get the info to solve the problems, but it payed off in the end! the cure appeared to be fairly easy as i changed to different sparkplugs (B9EGV) and cranked up the fuel pressure to 65psi at full load.
2nd attempt:
still didn't go as planned... thank god i had no more detonation, but we ran into some other troubles. at 15psi the engine stopped producing power after 5k rpm and stopped accelerating. we got stuck on 290hp...
also another problem...
i replaced the OMP-lines by different ones, but it appeared they could not stand the heat as well as i thought they would.
they became soft and got loose on the OMP and due to my fan right in front of it, the entire car got a shower of fine oil-mist.
we decided to stop at that point and replace the lines before we did damage to the engine.
not long after that i got the new lines and ordered a HKS twinpower, because i had the idea that the lack of power was due to the fact that my ignition was not powerfull enough.
attempt number 3:
all went pretty smooth in comparison to the past. also the twinpower did its job, cause there was no more hesitation at high rpm's
now we are pretty much at the max for this setup, cause it is noticable that the stock engine and turbo cannot produce any more power right now.
final dyno figures: 305hp and 420Nm