Hey Fluid, what all have you done as far as weight reduction. And congrats on teh time.

The altitude was under 1000', probably more like 300-500. Drag race weather is only going to get better this winter when it gets cold again.



I know I'm going to get rid of the main cat in a couple weeks and get an SAFC, and maybe make a trip to a dyno to tune it all, but I might make a supercharging attempt after that and postpone any other mods like a full catback. But I'm pretty sure with some colder weather, driving experience, slicks and full exhaust + tuned SAFC, this car could get very close to 13.99. It only has to trap another 6-7 mph higher and not launch so badly to get there.



Weight reduction on the car is basically: start with a total base model (not even a sunroof) and remove anything that you can't directly see that you don't need, and even some things that you can directly see (stereo, stereo surround, idiot lights, rear speaker towers / covers, bin structures).



Working off memory, this is the weight reduction I did:



Aluminum hood swap

_Kept_ the 91 coupe 15" 5 star wheels- they are 12 lbs each. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

under carpet sound deadening tar

under carpet (some) rubber mats - not the main one over the trunk floor

dash reinforcement metal

front bumper reinforcement (not recommended if u commute in the big city)

steering wheel reinforcement box (under the horn pad)

brake ducts

air pump and muffler

tow hooks

RB header in favor of stock manifold / precats - worth about 20 lbs.

Stereo and related wires

Center console (there is a piece of plywood there now, he he)

Idiot lights and related wires

Front manifold heat shields in the trans. tunnel (header is heat wrapped)

ECU mount plate (remount ECU onto the firewall)

AC (all components)





So yeah, basically the car might have been an even 2600 lbs. at first, and I got rid of stuff I didn't want, just like when buiding an airplane.



The car is plenty tight in the corners even without front bumper or dash reinforcement, and I don't even have strut tower bars. The interior is mostly still there, and the plywood "center console panel" will be changed out when I finish building a fiberglass Porsche 928 style angled fascia for it.



So there u go, FC builderz, every pound counts, just like every little power adding mod counts. I wouldn't call this car fast, but it's not really that slow anymore. Forced induction is calling me now. More specifically, a lysholm twin screw compressor is calling me!

It's kind of an occasional commuter car, and it still gets about 26 mpg at 75 on the freeway, and about 21 mixed city / highway, so I don't have any plans to do a PP, but if I was building a motor anyways, I would definately consider it. P ports are the king of all rotary ports in my opinion. The little R/C model airplane wankel engine has peripheral intake and exhaust ports, and it is about as powerful as something half again larger in displacement. It has the carb bolted right to the rotor housing. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png I've heard that PP's are just about streetable with aftermarket fuel injection (I know a guy who used to daily drive a PP 13B car).



I hate to say it, but forced induction is the best mod there is, if done right, and a close second would have to be porting. It is fun messing with an FC NA, but there is an upper limit to what the cars can do all motor on just a medium street port . . .

my nsu spider had (well its still there!) a carb bolted to the rotor housing, it has 2 pp's that match up with the primary and secondary of the carby. that being said the 79 factory imsa car (white and green) idles better, we saw it at laguna last year and they had it running really well with a carb



that being said for the street with a turbo, you can have the same power more torque, and still be quiet

congrats fluid... not bad at all..

congrats! 95 is a great trap for an NA, especially with the stock exhaust. As a comparison, I have run a 14.56 @ 93.83 on street tires in my Nissan on a 2.1 60'. On another run with a 2.4 60', I lost .6 and ran a 15.1. The 60' time is so important. You can easily cut a 1/2 second with some drag radials or slicks and the right launch rpm, etc.

nice times, now get some real tires and a exhaust

So how close were the Gtech #s?

Yeah, I was wondering when he was going to bring that up.

would this set up be good for 14.9 or faster?

Tuner's dream come true. 1990 RX-7 GXL with the heart of a GTUs. Here are the specs: [ENGINE] 70,000K since last rebuild. Total Mileage 181K. Compression FR 80-85-80 and RR 90-95-90. The engine has a mild streetport on TII housings and 3mm apex seals. TII oil pump and TII secondary injectors (550cc). 3rd Gen Fuel Pump. TPS is less than a year old. Alternator is BRAND NEW. Fan Clutch is BRAND NEW. Exhaust Gasket BRAND NEW. Belts are BRAND NEW. MAP Sensor less than a year old. [CLUTCH/TRANNY] Racing Beat lightweight steel flywheel. GSL-SE Disk/RB Pressure plate. [INTAKE/EXHAUST] Cone Filter intake w/headlight vent. Rotary Performance downpipe/high flow cat. Racing Beat Power Pulse Cat Back Exhaust. [SUSPENSION] Tokico Shocks and Struts. Racing Beat lowering springsw/camber adjustment. Racing Beat Polyurethane Bushings. Racing Beat Strut Tower Brace. Racing Beat Torque (tranny) brace. GTUs wheels. The hood is not the original one. I purchased the hood (steel) from a friend and matches the car. However if you plan to autocross, you may want to get an aluminum one. The AC blows at 35 degrees, COLD! The car has a new Blaupunkt CD player and 4 POLK audio speakers and two smaller factory speakers under the dash. I have a 600 WATT amp as well that the 4 POLK speakers plug into. On the car are 3 mildly worn Goodyear GT Qualifiers 16" and one new tire. I also have two Z rated Potenzas. The paint is fair with some few chips and rust spots. New NGK Spark plugs and racing beat sparkplug wires.