I finally got to a real drag strip to verify my gtech numbers and was able to get a few runs in. On my third, I bumped up my timing a tad more to break into the 14s, which was kool, but I broke out of my dial in and lost the bracket race. All three runs produced a total burnout on launch due to some all season tires I was on. 60' was 2.35, so there is some time to lose by getting drag radials or slicks. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



I guess I'm posting this to show the NA guys what's possible. The car is a base model with LSD swap, five lug swap, intake and engine porting, ram/cold air intake, advanced timing, RB collected header, weight reduction and 15" wheels. It still has a very old stock cat and cat back, and stock ecu. I could get a significant amount more power with a tuned SAFC, high flow cat and cat back, and some creative intake manifold cooling devices.

Very nice! Congrats! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif

Sweet man. That is my goal. I would like to break into the 14's. I have not gone to the track yret this year, but I just put my RB header on, and a high flow cat.

Congrats.

thats great!

Thanks guys. The temp was 85 and the humidity was low, so there's more time to lose on a cooler day. I'm pretty sure now that it is possible to hit high 13's with a streetable, street ported FC NA.. My launches just sucked because I always had to let off, get traction, and bog in order to get going. Another FC NA (a s4 Gxl) ran mid 17's that day. I felt kind of sad for that car, but it was old and all stock.

Not too bad. What was the 1/8th mile and '60 foot times?



Imagine if you bridgeported your 7. Can you say 12's maybe with slicks? Or would that just be dreaming?

I don't see why this car couldn't hit 12's with another 100 hp to the wheels. I'm probably only putting down 140ish right now. It weighs about 2350 lbs. empty, with a quarter tank of gas. I'd say that with a bridgeport drag only car to reach its potential, street tires would be out of the question.



60' was 2.35

1/8th was 9.75 @ 74.5



There seems to be some technique to drag race driving and I was starting to get a feel for it. But it was funny seeing the mid 13 all motor hondas run. Scary, too. They weren't the riced out ones, but they had good tires and really didn't trap more than 10 mph higher than my FC. A 14 flat MR2 turbo trapped right around 95, too.

Read through this before you go again next time, might help ypu a little



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=31846

Yes, read that. I need to use that also. When I take the car to the track. Oh and once I get it fixed also.



A BP would be really silly, especially with a 2400 pound car. Is this car strictly a drag car? If so, peri-port that lil guy.

Get rid of that exhaust!! With your car that light, a few well chosen mods would put you into the 13's on the stock ecu.



What altitude are you at?



If its not raining tomorrow, I may go to the 1/8 mile. I think Ill run pretty good, even with the weight Ive been putting back in. And this will be one time Im happy to have tall gears. I wont have a problem finishing the 1/8 in 2nd gear, but those 9500 rpm shifts are taking a toll on the tranny. I think Ill be the first person to break a TII tranny with a n/a if I keep this up...

Hey Fluid, what all have you done as far as weight reduction. And congrats on teh time.

The altitude was under 1000', probably more like 300-500. Drag race weather is only going to get better this winter when it gets cold again.



I know I'm going to get rid of the main cat in a couple weeks and get an SAFC, and maybe make a trip to a dyno to tune it all, but I might make a supercharging attempt after that and postpone any other mods like a full catback. But I'm pretty sure with some colder weather, driving experience, slicks and full exhaust + tuned SAFC, this car could get very close to 13.99. It only has to trap another 6-7 mph higher and not launch so badly to get there.



Weight reduction on the car is basically: start with a total base model (not even a sunroof) and remove anything that you can't directly see that you don't need, and even some things that you can directly see (stereo, stereo surround, idiot lights, rear speaker towers / covers, bin structures).



Working off memory, this is the weight reduction I did:



Aluminum hood swap

_Kept_ the 91 coupe 15" 5 star wheels- they are 12 lbs each. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png

under carpet sound deadening tar

under carpet (some) rubber mats - not the main one over the trunk floor

dash reinforcement metal

front bumper reinforcement (not recommended if u commute in the big city)

steering wheel reinforcement box (under the horn pad)

brake ducts

air pump and muffler

tow hooks

RB header in favor of stock manifold / precats - worth about 20 lbs.

Stereo and related wires

Center console (there is a piece of plywood there now, he he)

Idiot lights and related wires

Front manifold heat shields in the trans. tunnel (header is heat wrapped)

ECU mount plate (remount ECU onto the firewall)

AC (all components)





So yeah, basically the car might have been an even 2600 lbs. at first, and I got rid of stuff I didn't want, just like when buiding an airplane.



The car is plenty tight in the corners even without front bumper or dash reinforcement, and I don't even have strut tower bars. The interior is mostly still there, and the plywood "center console panel" will be changed out when I finish building a fiberglass Porsche 928 style angled fascia for it.



So there u go, FC builderz, every pound counts, just like every little power adding mod counts. I wouldn't call this car fast, but it's not really that slow anymore. Forced induction is calling me now. More specifically, a lysholm twin screw compressor is calling me!

It's kind of an occasional commuter car, and it still gets about 26 mpg at 75 on the freeway, and about 21 mixed city / highway, so I don't have any plans to do a PP, but if I was building a motor anyways, I would definately consider it. P ports are the king of all rotary ports in my opinion. The little R/C model airplane wankel engine has peripheral intake and exhaust ports, and it is about as powerful as something half again larger in displacement. It has the carb bolted right to the rotor housing. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png I've heard that PP's are just about streetable with aftermarket fuel injection (I know a guy who used to daily drive a PP 13B car).



I hate to say it, but forced induction is the best mod there is, if done right, and a close second would have to be porting. It is fun messing with an FC NA, but there is an upper limit to what the cars can do all motor on just a medium street port . . .

my nsu spider had (well its still there!) a carb bolted to the rotor housing, it has 2 pp's that match up with the primary and secondary of the carby. that being said the 79 factory imsa car (white and green) idles better, we saw it at laguna last year and they had it running really well with a carb



that being said for the street with a turbo, you can have the same power more torque, and still be quiet

congrats fluid... not bad at all..

congrats! 95 is a great trap for an NA, especially with the stock exhaust. As a comparison, I have run a 14.56 @ 93.83 on street tires in my Nissan on a 2.1 60'. On another run with a 2.4 60', I lost .6 and ran a 15.1. The 60' time is so important. You can easily cut a 1/2 second with some drag radials or slicks and the right launch rpm, etc.

nice times, now get some real tires and a exhaust

So how close were the Gtech #s?

Yeah, I was wondering when he was going to bring that up.

would this set up be good for 14.9 or faster?

Tuner's dream come true. 1990 RX-7 GXL with the heart of a GTUs. Here are the specs: [ENGINE] 70,000K since last rebuild. Total Mileage 181K. Compression FR 80-85-80 and RR 90-95-90. The engine has a mild streetport on TII housings and 3mm apex seals. TII oil pump and TII secondary injectors (550cc). 3rd Gen Fuel Pump. TPS is less than a year old. Alternator is BRAND NEW. Fan Clutch is BRAND NEW. Exhaust Gasket BRAND NEW. Belts are BRAND NEW. MAP Sensor less than a year old. [CLUTCH/TRANNY] Racing Beat lightweight steel flywheel. GSL-SE Disk/RB Pressure plate. [INTAKE/EXHAUST] Cone Filter intake w/headlight vent. Rotary Performance downpipe/high flow cat. Racing Beat Power Pulse Cat Back Exhaust. [SUSPENSION] Tokico Shocks and Struts. Racing Beat lowering springsw/camber adjustment. Racing Beat Polyurethane Bushings. Racing Beat Strut Tower Brace. Racing Beat Torque (tranny) brace. GTUs wheels. The hood is not the original one. I purchased the hood (steel) from a friend and matches the car. However if you plan to autocross, you may want to get an aluminum one. The AC blows at 35 degrees, COLD! The car has a new Blaupunkt CD player and 4 POLK audio speakers and two smaller factory speakers under the dash. I have a 600 WATT amp as well that the 4 POLK speakers plug into. On the car are 3 mildly worn Goodyear GT Qualifiers 16" and one new tire. I also have two Z rated Potenzas. The paint is fair with some few chips and rust spots. New NGK Spark plugs and racing beat sparkplug wires.

Oops, I forgot to mention that. My first run was 15.0 @ 95 and the Gtech reported 14.9 @ 98, so with my FC which has slightly stiffer suspension (Tokico HP shocks and Eibach springs) and its lighter weight, rear end squat didn't seem to throw off the Gtech too much. From now on, I'll just consider this Gtech to read 3mph faster trap speed and .1 second lower ET than an actual drag strip.



More importantly, the Gtech tells me if my mods help or not. When I installed my header, the Gtech time went from 15.6 ET to 14.9. This was just the RB "streetable" collected header that collects pretty short, nothing fancy. Also, changing from 41lb. Nissan 300zx wheels to 32lb. 91 coupe FC 15" wheels / tires gave me back .01-.02 g in first gear (you can just watch the instant g readings when driving around; my car pulled about .5g in first).



And point taken on the drag radials or slicks! There was just no way to launch the car with the street tires it was on. This car could probably reach a 2 second 60' with the stock flywheel and slicks. I'd love to lose a half a second just from getting slicks.



As far as shifting went, I was able to have usable power right up to 7800 rpm when the rev limit hit and I was just about bouncing off it in 3rd at the quarter mile mark. The rev buzzer spent more time buzzing than not during the runs. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif



I had a great time. Go rotaries!

I think I am going to make a rotary flag to take to the track. I had my hood open between runs, when I sprayed water on the manifold to cool it, and people kept checking out the wankel. There was an old Datsun 510 with a bridgeport, myself, the GXL, and a modded 3rd gen that ran 13.1 @ 110 while it was roasting its clutch all the way down the track. It was an import event full of built hondas. It was kind of fun running faster times than all the pretty Integras and Accords. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png

www.tirerack.com might have some slicks or some drag radials for sale.

try gettin some space savers for the front(spares). the turbo 2 spare tires have got to be less than 12 lbs and it will take a lot of friction off the front end.