mazdadrifter

Ok I'm diving into my engine swap, I'm swapping from s4 to s5 (both) turbo blocks and using a haltech (most likley) to controll the new engine. Removing omp and plugging injector holes.



4 720's, walbro, hybrid, lightweight flywheel, couple other mods.



I'm removing all a/c and converting my p/s to manual. And removing all other non-essentials to the engine (keeping the heater core and that's about it). If it doesn't make me go faster then it's getting pulled.



OK, my question to you guys is... do you have any pointers for me before I jump into this swap? Like should I remove something that won't function anymore? (like do i need that metal vaccum line spider that wraps around the engine and intake?)



Or any tips or tricks that you guys had to learn the hard way??



Or even any links that might help me out.



This is the first major amount of work that i've done to my car, and I want to make sure I get it right the first time.



Any info will be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!!!



A couple quick questions....



Can I unbolt the engine from the tranny without supporting the tranny in any way??



Can I remove the engine without removing the tranny?? ( I will have plenty of room in front because I plan on taking my radiator out during a/c removal)



Is there anything other than engine managment issues that I need to address before a s5 block will drop into my car??

djgiantrobot

lots of stuff to cover here, but basically doing the most basic stuff on the engine will make your life ALOT easier and make the tuning easier as well. You don't have to worry about tuning for load and stuff because your AC and PS is gone. Anyway my suggestion

1) is to put as much stuff onto the engine before you install it, it will save alot of time later.



2) Clean the hell out of the engine bay and everything (pressure washer) while its empty, or if you are going paint it, do it then.



3) taking the engine and tranny out together and putting them in together is alot easier in my opinion.



4) don't cheap out on the electrical connectors for wiring your stand alone, order from an electronics store online, not radio shack. I suggest high quality GM weatherproof or deusch connectors, don't just use cheapo butt connectors or even worse twist and wrap with electrical tape.



5) invest in a case of carb cleaner and a case of PB blaster as well as a whole mess of shop rags

mazdadrifter

awesome



Yeah I'm installing a new clutch,PP flywheel and everything so it would probably be easier to do it where i have room to work (out of the car)



Will i need to replace anything on the rear of my tranny due to removing it?? I've heard the u-joints can be a bastard to get apart and that a lot of people tear them up trying.



I'm getting mazdaspeed motormounts. Oil cooler lines and such.



The motor is a j-spec, so I'm praying that there is no damage done to it already.



I'm really starting to think this car is going to be a screamer when it's back together, I'd say I've already taken out 120 lbs of stuff that'll never go back in. I'm just worried that it's being removed from the wrong place. (up front) I'd rather have a slightly front heavy car than the opposite, so I'm thinkin about not relocating the battery.



Thanx for the info, this beer's for u

mazdadrifter

mazdadrifter

mazdadrifter

mazdadrifter

mazdadrifter

mazdadrifter

done for the night, havein a couple six cold ones



never realized how much **** they crammed under the hood, my car is going to float away cheers

mazdadrifter

and my engine is black because of a leaking front main seal and oil cooler line, oil is caked on the bottom of the block



I don't know what im gonna do with a clean engine bay??