2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Emission Testing...

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Old 09-30-2005, 05:52 AM
  #11  
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I would give serious consideration to having your injectors cleaned
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Old 09-30-2005, 07:13 AM
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not sure if any has mentioned it. But replace your o2 sensor with a bosch universal one. Make sure also taht the wire in your wireharness for the o2 sensor isn't damaged. Stick a multimeter on the end of the o2 sensor connector harness side and another in teh corresponding pin of hte ECU. Should show zero resistance.



That wire is very fragile and al ot of the time that wire is broken. Fixed wire combined with good o2 sensor should help you pass. It almost seems like your not going into closed loop.
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='764874' date='Sep 30 2005, 08:13 AM

not sure if any has mentioned it. But replace your o2 sensor with a bosch universal one. Make sure also taht the wire in your wireharness for the o2 sensor isn't damaged. Stick a multimeter on the end of the o2 sensor connector harness side and another in teh corresponding pin of hte ECU. Should show zero resistance.



That wire is very fragile and al ot of the time that wire is broken. Fixed wire combined with good o2 sensor should help you pass. It almost seems like your not going into closed loop.




Thanks for that suggestion. I'll definitely have to check it out with the wiring. I had already installed a brand new O2 sensor from Bosch with the connector on it and everything. The wire has been crimped once, very close to where it completely disappears behind the throttle body and into the wiring harness, but the crimp is solid. I'll have to try that with the multimeter.



You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the pin on the ECU?



That's probably *more than likely* where my problem lies in reference to running very rich... Other than the injectors possibly leaking? I never had a problem with flooding (knock on wood) but they may leak inbetween their normal on-off-on during operation? They're just the plane-jane stock injectors. Heck, the rest of the car is solid. I don't think my charcoal canister would dump all of the fuel fumes back into the motor during every single test, LOL.



Regardless of what the problem ends up being, hopefully I'll find it ASAP. That, combined with the catalytic converter I ordered had better pass me like it's a new car, LOL
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Old 09-30-2005, 04:19 PM
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Hmm, anyone ever heard of this working? I won't try it myself, even though I have a spare AFM, and don't want to use up my "free retest" for smog on experimenting, LOL



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=55962
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Old 09-30-2005, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy2' post='764858' date='Sep 30 2005, 02:46 AM

Wow, thanks for all the replies from all of you. Really do appreciate the help!



Well I have looked a little further and also asked on a few other forums and received the same advice as here. The air pump works fine, by the way, and the 02 sensor is brand new. I could not figure out how to do the ACV "stuck open" trick in order for the cat to ALWAYS have air pumped to it. Something about removing an upper vacuum line and capping it... I didn't want to use my 2nd "free" retest if I didn't know how to do it right. Already gone through $45 after paying for two and this next test will be my 2nd free retest (4th test overall)






thats not a good way to do it, those valves A) have a high failure rate, and B) you want the air pump air going into the EXHAUST ports NOT the cat directly. trust me i live in ca, we've always had to smog our cars it works. you need to pull the valve apart and mechanically force it to be open like that, should take about 15-20minutes
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Old 10-03-2005, 01:15 PM
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UPDATE:



DO NOT ORDER FROM THE PROVIDED WEBPAGES. JUST RECEIVED "DIRECT FIT" PART, AND GUESS WHAT? IT'S THE WRONG THING. CURRENTLY ATTEMPTING TO CONTACT THE SELLER'S CUSTOMER SERVICE.



The part I was sent is just the short length of pipe that connects to the flange from the exhaust manifold and has the somewhat smaller pre-converter attached, with NO air tube/pipe. Overall length should have been 48 3/8". The part supplied is only 28 1/2" in lenght.



DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY!



I will be posting an update once I have heard back from customer service.



In the meantime, looks like I get to go to an exhaust shop after all and have the correct pipe and converter installed (bolt in only!). Yaay, sounds like loads of fun.....not.....
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:09 PM
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just have the shop install a universal high flow cat like the Catco because its stainless steel with a airpipe and everything should be good for you
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Old 10-03-2005, 05:34 PM
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as for air flow to the catalytic...I don't know if I can explain this as good as the threads in the RX7 club forum...(absolutely no disrespect to this club intended) but it mention tricking the ACV into pumping air into the cat by removing the forward upper vacuum hose and capping it ..also turning the variable resistor to as lean as you can get it before it bogs out on ya .another mentions putting denatured alcohol into the tank (do this when nearly empty) ..one gallon to 5 of gas should cut it but do this only Right before the test..then after YOU PASS go and fill up to dilute the alcohol you put in...some mention methylhydrate and a table spoon of acetone orughly the same ratio...DO this ONLY if you feel comfortable doing ..I can't vouch for the dependability of these methods ..but for what it is worth alot of people have done it and are saying that it has worked for them ..so the methods i leave to you ..myself ..i'd read up on various forums post a question or 2 and then see for yourself what other s are doing in the same situation as yourself..note.I'm a newbie but have been a hands on guy all my workin life..use your own judgement ..then if you fail you can only say that yougave your all!!!..catch ya later!!
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Old 10-04-2005, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69' post='766022' date='Oct 3 2005, 03:34 PM

as for air flow to the catalytic...I don't know if I can explain this as good as the threads in the RX7 club forum...(absolutely no disrespect to this club intended) but it mention tricking the ACV into pumping air into the cat by removing the forward upper vacuum hose and capping it ..also turning the variable resistor to as lean as you can get it before it bogs out on ya .another mentions putting denatured alcohol into the tank (do this when nearly empty) ..one gallon to 5 of gas should cut it but do this only Right before the test..then after YOU PASS go and fill up to dilute the alcohol you put in...some mention methylhydrate and a table spoon of acetone orughly the same ratio...DO this ONLY if you feel comfortable doing ..I can't vouch for the dependability of these methods ..but for what it is worth alot of people have done it and are saying that it has worked for them ..so the methods i leave to you ..myself ..i'd read up on various forums post a question or 2 and then see for yourself what other s are doing in the same situation as yourself..note.I'm a newbie but have been a hands on guy all my workin life..use your own judgement ..then if you fail you can only say that yougave your all!!!..catch ya later!!


disrespect to the forum intended, all that stuff works "ok" but you'll have no trouble passing on normal fuel if you rig the acv to put air into the exhaust ports. my t2 passed the CA smog test no problem, and i acutally didnt even have to do anything, it was stock
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Old 10-06-2005, 10:16 PM
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Ran mine through the other day. with similar results..



Came home drained fuel, dumped in 2 gallons of denatured alcohol and drove back.. Pass. Knocked emissions down by 4 times from regular gas.



My CO was LOL... 0.0
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