2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Electric fan options

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Old 12-10-2007, 11:28 AM
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sneed said he would make me a set up like I pictured with a larger fan, so that seems like the way I will go.
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:38 AM
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That pic was before the system was complete, I had to have one of the stock hoses redone after putting the FD UIM on. I actually like the metal shroud on the sneedspeed one, with a larger fan I'm sure it'll work very well and look great too!
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Old 12-10-2007, 06:57 PM
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Here is the mount on the Be Cool fans.



We used aluminum brackets that sealed off the fan to the sides of the radiator. They move a ton of air and right now, with the cooler weather I do not see anything over 160° driving around town. On the interstate it barely hits 180°. I do not run a thermostat.











This fan moves 2780 cfm and draws 25 amps. Some day I want to wire it up to run only 1 fan and only fire up the second when it hits 190°.



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob x-7' post='889731' date='Dec 10 2007, 06:20 AM
sneedspeed sells a fan and shroud that is FC specific, the fan is only 2100cfm though, wonder if thats enough



that is the one my friend had and it cooled his car fine even with a stock radiator
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:26 PM
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some feel the thicker core radiators are HARDER to cool with weaker fans, they have to work too hard, especially with a FMIC
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:39 PM
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"i can see no falter in your logic" but think about it at low speed and cruise you are not boosting and the natural air flow is more than enough at cruise even at idle you are not boosting soo the fmic is not hot get my point?
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:06 PM
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I know one person who had a really thick radiator on his FC, with the FMIC it did not get enough air when driving, it was TOO thick!
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:18 AM
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FYI - I took my car out this morning and put 100 miles on it breaking it in. The air temp is in the 45° range and I could never get my engine over 150° all morning no matter the driving.
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Old 12-21-2007, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7 13B 4 UR AZZ' post='889819' date='Dec 10 2007, 10:39 PM
"i can see no falter in your logic" but think about it at low speed and cruise you are not boosting and the natural air flow is more than enough at cruise even at idle you are not boosting soo the fmic is not hot get my point?


It's right in front of the rad, it's going to get heat soaked. If the car is warmed up, the FMIC will be hot.



A really thick FMIC has alot of surface area to cool. I'm sure the weaker fan was working fine no problem, but another story is could it pull enough of a mass of air past the total thickness of all the components before the air became too hot and was no longer really effective.



Stop thinking about stock radiator for a second. Think about surface area and thermal transfer. Sure it cools with a stock rad no problem. It's only half as thick as an aftermarket one. The thickness is an obstruction. Obstruction to flow means the fan has to work harder, draws more power, and turns slower. That's the whole reason people get at bigger radiator. More surface area means more thermal transfer, so the car runs cooler. You ever hear about some guys notice their car running hotter with an upgraded radiator when they're sitting at a stop light right after beating the **** out of the car? Good rad, shitty fan. The opposite from the scenario you posted earlier (shitty rad, good fan, beacuse as you said the temperature came down after sitting still).



Just imagine the sum. Take a fan, and put it in front of a 3" radiator. Take the same fan, and put it in front of the exact same radiator and fins, only 6" this time. Does the fan have to work harder? Yes, the fins create resistance to flow. It's an obstruction. Will the fan still be as effective on the 6" as the 3"? No. It can't be.
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