hello,

i remember seeing some pics of a "dry sump" system for the 13b a while back. it basically involved replacing the oil pan with a metal plate with the areas for the oil pick up and drop off receded outward a bit. i cannot afford the Mazdaspeed setup, though i am aware of its existence. i could have sworn i saw the "dry sump plate" somewhere on these boards, but i can't seem to locate it now (tried lots of searches). anyway, i have to drop an S5 13b into a 240sx, so I am definitely going to have to do this mod in order to clear the 240sx cross member. if anyone can help get me on the right track with some useful links that would be great. if you guys would like i can try to document the fabrication process to help out anyone else that would like to try this for whatever reason...

thanks in advance.

Love the idea of an 13b in a 240 lol you will get flamed alot if you post that on the 240 message boards though.



about your drysump idea sorry but dont know jack about it

I think I remember seeing that before too! I'm behind you on this project good luck!

thanks for the support guys, i don't plan on getting on the 240 boards until i start doing some suspension work on the ride, i probably wont mention which engine i am using when they ask me if i am "running KA or SR?" !



i might just try to "wing it" on this dry sump deal. i'll do my best to engineer fail safes into the control system for both low oil pressure and high oil temp. hopefully with these measures in place i will be free to do a little experimenting without smoking the motor. i'll get to fabricating the system next week and i'll try and post some pics to help others.

mazdatrix has a kit but it is pretty pricey.

the mazdatrix sump appears to be the mazdaspeed kit i mentioned. It seems madzdatrix is a vendor for mazdaspeed products.

I did find something promising on mazdatrix just under the listing for the sump however:

race parts

just below the pump is a dry sump plate for around $100.

I may purchase this and modify it for the "DIY dry sump" project. It seems pricey considering i could do all the fabrication, but when you take into account the price of metal stock, the tooling costs, and the time i will "waste" making it, just buying the plate seems like a pretty reasaonable option...

why waste ur time with it all premix and be done

Personally, I dont think being able to drop the engine 2" will be worth the $1k it will take you to piece together a kit. You would be better off cutting out part of the crossmember and re-welding it. I had to make a new crossmember with a 2" drop to make my b2200 rotary mounts work out. Another option would be an FD or GSL-SE oil pan, or even just a custom wet sump oil pan and pickup.



If you are set on dry sump though, hit up ebay or a circle track shop around you. Theres tons of used dry sump units you can pick up that bolt onto the engine like an accessory. Then you will just need an oil tank, plumbing, etc. But even still, you can expect to spend $ 500-1000 going this route, depending on your fab skills.

I had seen one last weekend at a shop, was a trick set up and definitly required as much thinking with your head

as being able to fab the rest with your hands.

I guess maybe what I am talking about is in fact a custom wet sump...I'm not planning on replacing the actual oil pump or suction tube, but rather, re-locating the actual volume of the oil pan into a cansiter adjacent to the motor on the spark side. the plate on the bottom of the motor would not be entirely flat, it would have little protruding areas where the suction tube would stick into, with an oil line coming from this side of this protrusion, from the neerby oil canister. there would be a similar protrusion near the back for the oil return line. the protruding areas would likely be fabricated by drilling two 3" holes in the plate where the suction tube and return dump are located. then we would cut two 2" long sections of 3" exhasut pipe and weld them to the plate where the holes are. then we would cap them off with the material we hole-sawed out of the plate in the first place. then we would weld a bung on each protrusion for oil feed and return. does this make more sence?



BTW, assuming this will work, i can pull this off for around $30, not $500-1000!