goodshit rob! from me working in a bodyshop before i commend you for going the extra mile!

That paint job is 4 years old this Christmas, I painted it myself and it sits outside all the time, no garage. Thanks for all the good words people, coming from a guy with a vert I have my work cut out for me when it comes time to show up the FDs and the TIIs, lol.



As for prices, again I have been keeping track of my hours to figure out a fair price if anyone wants thier car painted. I dont want to run a factory and dont look at this as a means to make a living, only because I enjoy doing it, when it comes time I dont enjoy doing it there is a problem, lol.



Fastrotories- I use all brand name top of the line products, from 3M abrasives to DuPont paints/primers, US Paint/AwlGrip primers, AwlGrip is rarely used for autos, its a military/aeronautical/marine product line that has been around for a long time.

Most body shops tend to go fast/high production which can sacrafice the job in the long run, NOTHING I use is high-production and nothing is easy, but in the end you get what you pay for or what you put into a job, go cheap and fast and it shows.

yah around here we can always tell if a car has been painted, usually from 10 feet away, and thats even if you take it to the expensive ($5k+) places



mike

damn... want to paint my car... too bad i live in toronto.



got a quetsion for u though... everyone i talk to is always concerned about overspray into the wheel wells... do u mask off the wheel wells?

I usually do mask the wheel wells, in this case I didnt because :



#1- I only put 2 light coats on the wheel well lips

#2-nothing will really stick in the wheel wells anyhow

#3-some pressure washing and a few passes of some flat black spray paint goes into the wheel wells after anyhow.



Its hard to keep paper stuck to the inside of the wheel well to be able to paint the wheel well lips, the masking paper can sometimes end up blowing off and into the paint when the pressure of the paint gun passes, so I would rather clean a small amount of overspray off then have paper blow into my paint. They do sell overspray protection spray that is water soluable which I can spray into the wheel wells, undercarriage and engine compartment.

So does the quality of the primer really make a difference?

im happy i live only 20 min. from rob...i cant wait to drop off my car :yum: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

Damn, Rob is the Man... I wanna paint my truck next year... oops I mean this Year.. I actually want to paint both of them.. I am doing the body work on my B2600i and will begin on the Repu once I get it started..... Are PPG and Dupont products good? How bout for Primer?

The primer absolutely 100% makes a difference.



I prefer either US Paint AwlGrip 545grey epoxy primer, or DuPont URO Prime

Nice thing about the AwlGrip primer is its self etching on bare metal, and is military spec for anti-corrosion. URO prime you have to use VariPrime on the bare metal first.



After using some PPG I can say thier older Deltron was good ****, I dont like any of thier BC/CC after I tried thier BC on my Lexus this summer. I can honestly say I prefer the DuPont Chromasystem over PPG BC/CC. I always used Chrombase but my friend with a body shop talked me into using his PPG Global and I tried it, HATED it. Alot of people use the PPG and thats what they may prefer I guess. I ended up using Chroma Premier clear with the PPG base and after wish I had gone with my instinct and used Chromabase. The Chroma Premier clear coat was nice ****, considered the top of the line clear for DuPont, my cost was about $200 or so for the clear, and I buy a little over cost.

Jebus...

Looks hella good...