RotorBalls

I was following the instructions on rotary ressurection and it says to cap the front and rear lines. I already capped the front but then I read that you're supposed to run a bypass line from the rear block to the front water pump. I don't want to have to pull of the water pump assembly to unclog the rtv from the hole. Does it really matter if they're both capped off?



also my thermowax assembly has a plate attached that looks like it might be important. Possibly for throttle cable? It's been a while since my engine has been assmbled so I wasn't sure what it was for.

CGeek2k

I'm pretty sure the plate on the thermowax thing is for the cruise control cable.



As for the line, I have read that without that line running to the top of the block, it wont bleed all the air out of the system, causing large cooling issues.

RotorBalls

argh!! boo to bad info on rotaryressurection. Seems like I keep going backwards with this stinking build. I might get it done some year lol.



Guess I'll just throw the thermowax back on there since there's no way to properly mount that plate for the cruise control. **** while I'm at it the bac and everything else...guess the extra TB plates will have to stay gone. What a waste of time

CGeek2k

When I did my TB mod, I left the thermowax on to help with cold starts but I pulled out that stupid little vacuum line valve. Its a standard pipe thread so just go to the hardware store and find a plug to fit it. Then just run the coolant lines normally.

RotorBalls

I dunno, I just thought it might be different for the NA and turbo models. The write ups on the two are different with this part specifically. NA model says cap it off and the turbo says run hose from from to rear. The thermowax should help with idle in the cold here but I keep it garaged all winter anyway so I was gonna do away with the cold start assist and the thermowax