Or more importantly, is 9.5# way too light for city driving? (I know it's subjective, but I just need a general idea)

I don't know an exact weight on mine but it's atleast 9.5 maybe 8, and it's goot for city, the clutch is fully engaged by 1/4 travel on the clutch pedal.

Hey, before you buy the flywheel you ought to check the rules at your autocross club. They may bump you up! Here it would put you in Street Prepared without doing anything else!

cusco twin plate

Cancel all that crap, I thought the price at racing beat did not include the counter weight, but it does include it (or I did some other math wrong before, I dunno). I think I'll go with the racing beat steel flywheel then, with their clutch package.



flywheel, pp, clutch, bearings (t/o, pilot, and pilot seal), and clutch alignming tool at mazdatrix comes to a total of $703.22. Unless I did math wrong again.

while your there... retorque the tension bolts..

as far as torquing it to 300ftlbs.. there are torque wrenches that go up that high..

you dont need air for that.. try harbour freight...

yeah the rb stuff is the best deal, cause of the counterwieght

agreed. i have a copper spring 6 puck from SPEC clutches and a 9 lbs aluminum flywheel. It is definitly very very hardcore. So hardcore it makes driving on the street kinda crappy and not fun anymore...



You can get away with a really light flywheel if you have a nice progressive clutch. The ultra light weight flywheel gets crappy to drive with if you either have:



Some heavy hard to push pressure plate

6 puck copper



or combination of the above = yuo are no crack...

I have had very little problem driving around on my 8lbs wonder. Another thing you might want to replace is your rear main seal. Or at least don't mess it up like i did when I did my install. Its only $9.

I see what mazdatrix says about the tranny seals, but should I really replace the front and rear tranny seals? And how do I know if my transmission front cover is worn out front throwout bearing movement?