So now that I have my transmission off, I can see that the pressure plate looks like it's messed up. Half of the "fingers" seem to be angled outward like they should be, but the other half appear flat. So I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace everything while I'm here.



So I'm looking at mazdatrix.

From their description, it looks like the street/strip heavy duty clutch, street/strip pressure plate, and steel flywheel. That, or the Centerforce II setup (it's a little cheaper).



Anything wrong with centerforce? Are there other clutches that are just as good for cheaper, or is the mazdatrix setup the best bang for my buck?



Also, would someone let me use their flywheel stopper and nut removing tool, if I pay for shipping and a small fee? I think I also need the pilot bearing removal tool.

go with the dual friction center force. It is awsome. Go to advanced auto and get their timing gear puller. It works just the same.

I've heard nothing but bad about the Centreforce on RX-7s. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683561.gif



Have you priced out ACT clutch and flywheel?

get one of the medium duty pressure plates, and stay away from the copper clutch discs

ACT all the way, I have heard of numerous Centerforce DF clutches letting go.

I'll find some prices on ACT, thanks!



How do I know which ones are copper?

Also, if I just wanted to get an impact gun that could take care of the flywheel, what size (torque ability) would I need? I have a weenie one already.

usually it says something, or you can look at a picture



http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=12529

You need a BIG impact gun (spec torque is over 300 ft-lbs), and don't forget the really big socket!

Any downsides to this? It's from shaneracing.com. Or would I find a better deal elsewhere?

Or more importantly, is 9.5# way too light for city driving? (I know it's subjective, but I just need a general idea)

I don't know an exact weight on mine but it's atleast 9.5 maybe 8, and it's goot for city, the clutch is fully engaged by 1/4 travel on the clutch pedal.

Hey, before you buy the flywheel you ought to check the rules at your autocross club. They may bump you up! Here it would put you in Street Prepared without doing anything else!

cusco twin plate

Cancel all that crap, I thought the price at racing beat did not include the counter weight, but it does include it (or I did some other math wrong before, I dunno). I think I'll go with the racing beat steel flywheel then, with their clutch package.



flywheel, pp, clutch, bearings (t/o, pilot, and pilot seal), and clutch alignming tool at mazdatrix comes to a total of $703.22. Unless I did math wrong again.

while your there... retorque the tension bolts..

as far as torquing it to 300ftlbs.. there are torque wrenches that go up that high..

you dont need air for that.. try harbour freight...

yeah the rb stuff is the best deal, cause of the counterwieght

agreed. i have a copper spring 6 puck from SPEC clutches and a 9 lbs aluminum flywheel. It is definitly very very hardcore. So hardcore it makes driving on the street kinda crappy and not fun anymore...



You can get away with a really light flywheel if you have a nice progressive clutch. The ultra light weight flywheel gets crappy to drive with if you either have:



Some heavy hard to push pressure plate

6 puck copper



or combination of the above = yuo are no crack...

I have had very little problem driving around on my 8lbs wonder. Another thing you might want to replace is your rear main seal. Or at least don't mess it up like i did when I did my install. Its only $9.

I see what mazdatrix says about the tranny seals, but should I really replace the front and rear tranny seals? And how do I know if my transmission front cover is worn out front throwout bearing movement?

Ok, I ordered from mazdatrix the following:



flywheel

pressure plate

clutch disc

pilot bearing

pilot bearing seal

clutch alignment tool

front transmission seal

rear transmission seal



I was told I should also replace the rear engine seal, since I have it all apart anyway. Would this be called the "rear eccentric seal" or "seal oil rear main" (as I see on mazdatrix)?