2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Car Still Wont Stay Running, Need Advice Please.

Old 12-18-2003, 10:28 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 42
Default

Well heres the whole story, from start to finish. I figure the more info I give the more help I can get.





Bought the car in August of this year in indiana. Black 88 T2 with 114k on chassis, 400 miles on engine.



Put 400 more miles on it just driving it to and from places, basically a daily driver. Never shifting above 3k-4k. I think I redlined the thing once, but that was just because I had put new tranny fluid in and was seeing if my 2nd gear grind had gone away completly. (it has)



Then, one day as I'm going through the park, I'm at like 4000 rpms in second, then I lose power, the rpms drop off to idle (1k) but my foot is still on the gas. If i let my foot off the gas (im still rolling to a stop here) it would sputter but if i floored it it would barley bring the car out of vacuum but not go anywhere.



So I rolled to the side of the road and it wouldnt restart, so I got it towed home.



After about a month of troubleshooting, my mom had the car towed to a dealer, much to my dismay. I knew they wouldn't be able to fix it, and I was right. 2 months later and they didnt fix a damn thing.



So anyways heres the problem as of now, with the AFM unplugged and the fuel pump connector jumped, the car WILL start and idle... barley. The mechanic was able to drive it out of the yard with it like that, but he used a much better jumper than a paperclip. With the AFM plugged in and the connector unjumped/jumped (doesnt make a difference) the car spins up, revs to like 1k then dies back to cranking.



With just the afm unplugged and the connector not jumped it will start but if you tap the gas it dies, and if you let it sit for about 5 seconds it dies.



The dealer says they tried a new ecu (one i had to obtain for them) and a new fuel pump resistor relay. (i also provided) As far as I know those parts made no difference.



The car has good compression, no catostraphic failure there, and all 4 injectors ohm out correct etc.



I still remember after I took my UIM off and I saw two unplugged injectors I thought I found my problem, but I think they were my secondaries and thats why the car would sputter under hard acceleration at 3500rpm.



Anyways, any help to why my car won't stay running is greatly appreciated, anything metioned I will try, and as far as I know i have good fuel pressure (according to the dealer) but they are stupid so who knows.



Also, I put a new fuel filter on the car and used a new gasket when I put my UIM back on.
cloead is offline  
Old 12-18-2003, 11:30 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 319
Default

I'll give you somethings to try...





idle screw on the TB. For some unknown reason this screw on my car decides to move, even with a nut on the screw, it went from the idle position to the 5.5k rpm idle from just driving it around, and once it went from 800rpm to clean out of my engine bay, it was nowhere to be found. Car would start, hit bout 1k just long enough for me to notice, then die. Replaced it with a oversized wrong thread pitch beast with 2 nuts, its now fixed. So check this...



2nd Thing. Intercooler piping, this may or may not apply depending on the last time you pulled your intercooler, take it off. Reseat it, check it thoroughly. I had a tear in the boot that went to my ic to TB. And the car would start, hit the 1k mark, dive back down and die. It wouldnt want to start up again, but eventually with some pumping of the gas it would start, run like ***, try and die, it turned into an ebrake driving event....



Carb cleaner, spray it all over, check connections, look for leaks.



Also, if you still have emissions, under the IC near the oil filler neck, there is a **** load of solenoids, the manual has some pictures, they have little air filters on the ends of them, they look like buttons on the ends. If the yellow one i believe is fawked up, no start of the car. or start but not pretty well, and certainly wont stay running...*cautious when playing with these, they may break, they were brittle on my car so i just got rid of them all, and ditched emissions....**



I'd just start a check list, pull fuses, check them all. Reset your ecu, pop the initial setting jumper, reset tps, reset crank angle sensor. Try all sorts of odd ideas, you would be suprised what wierd off the wall **** can make these cars act up...



thats all i can offer...



ive got my own black 88 t2 thats been acting up...
tancred is offline  
Old 12-18-2003, 11:58 PM
  #3  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 42
Default

allright man thanks ill check all this tomarrow, the car is at my dads garage for now. i dont really feel like going out tomarrow night so i guess ill troubleshoot the fc some more.
cloead is offline  
Old 12-19-2003, 08:53 PM
  #4  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 42
Default

^
cloead is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rxdex
2nd Generation Specific
2
10-17-2008 05:08 PM
7's-for life
3rd Generation Specific
7
03-30-2008 01:31 PM
FC_Joe
ECU Discussions
13
11-10-2003 06:32 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Car Still Wont Stay Running, Need Advice Please.


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.