if you want to you can pull the ABS its not that much work when your pulling the engine

 

as long as you put a brake balencer in between the rear brakes and the brake master cylinder you'll be fine. You will have to play around with getting the proper amont of brakes to the *** end. I'm running 315 Nitto's so I have added a lot of braking to the rear and my car stops way the hell faster now than when I had the ABS. If you don't put in the brake balencer and go 100% brakes to the rear you will lock the *** end up under hard braking and loose control of the car. This can cause injury or death.. :smirk: so be safe and make sure all your lines and fittings are done correctly and don't leak. This can also cause death or serious injury.. So make sure you do it right, brakes are not somthing you wanna **** up and not somthing you want to do the cheap easy way...



Now you need to reserch what you need to make it work, I would start with a brake balencer from summit racing and get the linlock line/fittings kit while your there. This should run you around $75 or so, I forgot the exact prices. You will also need to locate a flairing tool and a few pt's of DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid.. If you change over to DOT 4 I would recommend bleeding and purging the whole system of the DOT 3..



good luck! I'm sure you will be very happy with the results if you go threw with the swap and you usually run large sticky tires...



Chris