If you're overheating your brakes on the street there's something SERIOUSLY wrong. Either you're a maniac and should be locked up, or the brakes aren't working properly and need to be fixed. Getting rid of the drilled rotors is the first step, THEY ARE NOT AN UPGRADE! They crack when used hard, which is what it sounds like you're doing. Plain <$25/each rotors from the parts store are more than sufficient for even the hardest track use, so they'll be fine for you. Maybe your caliper pistons are sticking, keeping the pads pressed up against the rotors, or maybe you're missing some hardware. The pads can also be oversized and stick in the calipers. Check that. Changing to some different pads should also help since it sounds like you've overheated and glazed the EBC's, giving them the approximate friction properties of a couple blocks of wood. Something like Hawk HP+'s might be better for you, they dust and they squeak, but they've got good stopping power and heat resistance without being a race pad (terrible on the street, I know).



For the track, another thing you can do is add ducting (AWR has the backing plates), this helps cool the brakes and will make a big difference. If the pedal's getting soft, replace your fluid with fresh, high temp stuff.



If the stock brakes (with ducting, good pads, good fluid) are good enough for FC race cars running 230+hp to the rear wheels using 10" wide slicks (E Production cars), they're good enough for you on the street.

This is my exact experience. I would just like to add rebuild your 20 yr old brakes and you will notice a a HUGE difference...

Longer stopping distance isn't always a bad thing either. More rear bias can give you more ability to rotate under braking. Unfortunately, that's for when you're on the track, so for the street, many big brakes aren't an upgrade. And if you want looks, powder coat your calipers, clean everything up and get fresh rotors. Voila.

The stock balance is already too far to the rear for road racing purposes, giving people problems with rear lockup, lengthening braking zones, making the car slower overall. This is not the right way to get the car to rotate, it'll slow you down. If you want it to rotate, tune the suspension to accomplish that, don't suffer through improper brake balance for it. It's better to have too much front balance, since at least that's stable. Too much rear can easily lead to a spin.

beware of cheap slotted/crossdrilled rotors. they will crack/split. bigger brakes are only as good as the tires that stick to the road. spend more money on tires and just rebuild the stock brakes like said before. you should be pretty happy with the results. i learned the hard way.