whats going on everyone just want some feed back on brake upgrade options for a 1986 gxl. i was thinking of the KVR/AP set up but they are a little on the pricey side any othe options out there?

The stock 4-piston caliper setup with decent pads are usually plenty adequate, what are you using the car for?



Also, welcome to nopistons! I just noticed the description of your car, do you have any pics?

ive heard good things about the ebc green pads...

Rotary performance sells a brake kit for $600(4 lug bolt pattern), comes with cross drilled rotors, pads, ss brake lines, and fluid. The website is rx7.com. Ebay also has a few options but i can't really say the parts would be quality(have to do a little research through the feedback).



happy hunting

zoominmyhead

T2 brakes?

no way!

i have crossdrilled brakes which turn blue with serious spirited driving on the street (although probably caused by the EBC greenstuff pads which are WAY TOO hard) and that's with stock engine...



after i get my car back together this winter, i'll be putting on a K-Sport 356mm 8 piston front brake kit.

also with the eye on the future when i hope to pull out some serious high HP numbers

good for granny driving, but if you need braking power, dont use these... better of with the ferodo's!

let me guess you have some ebay "brembo" cross drilled rotors?



they're fakes...the blueing is the **** metal overheating. plus as you said greenstuff's suck, they eat rotors alive.



the 4 piston t2 brakes provide tons of stopping power, a 356mm 8pot front brake setup is ridiculous overkill and in all reality probably wont help much, i wish i had the link but a lot of the BBK out there actual cause longer braking distances then stock setups.



when i get back home ill post a link to a good place for real brake upgrades that work if you really feel you need a brake upgrade.



kevin.

I run on a road course with stock size power slot rotors, Hawk HPS pads (street pad) and stock 4-pot calipers and have Motul RBF600 brake fluid in my system. I don't fade or lose consistency, and this is a street/track setup. I've never ran out of brakes, ever. Unless you heavily drive your car more than what I do on a track, (think brake from 120 down to 60, speed back up, brake back down), you don't need a big brake kit, unless you want it for the looks.



In regards to BBK stopping longer than stock, you have to get an adjustable proportioning valve and adjust your new brakes to the proper brake bias.



Looks are not a bad reason, btw. Depends on what you want from the car.

thank you for your time everyone. i have t2 brakes now just was thinking of going bigger

If you're overheating your brakes on the street there's something SERIOUSLY wrong. Either you're a maniac and should be locked up, or the brakes aren't working properly and need to be fixed. Getting rid of the drilled rotors is the first step, THEY ARE NOT AN UPGRADE! They crack when used hard, which is what it sounds like you're doing. Plain <$25/each rotors from the parts store are more than sufficient for even the hardest track use, so they'll be fine for you. Maybe your caliper pistons are sticking, keeping the pads pressed up against the rotors, or maybe you're missing some hardware. The pads can also be oversized and stick in the calipers. Check that. Changing to some different pads should also help since it sounds like you've overheated and glazed the EBC's, giving them the approximate friction properties of a couple blocks of wood. Something like Hawk HP+'s might be better for you, they dust and they squeak, but they've got good stopping power and heat resistance without being a race pad (terrible on the street, I know).



For the track, another thing you can do is add ducting (AWR has the backing plates), this helps cool the brakes and will make a big difference. If the pedal's getting soft, replace your fluid with fresh, high temp stuff.



If the stock brakes (with ducting, good pads, good fluid) are good enough for FC race cars running 230+hp to the rear wheels using 10" wide slicks (E Production cars), they're good enough for you on the street.

This is my exact experience. I would just like to add rebuild your 20 yr old brakes and you will notice a a HUGE difference...

Longer stopping distance isn't always a bad thing either. More rear bias can give you more ability to rotate under braking. Unfortunately, that's for when you're on the track, so for the street, many big brakes aren't an upgrade. And if you want looks, powder coat your calipers, clean everything up and get fresh rotors. Voila.

The stock balance is already too far to the rear for road racing purposes, giving people problems with rear lockup, lengthening braking zones, making the car slower overall. This is not the right way to get the car to rotate, it'll slow you down. If you want it to rotate, tune the suspension to accomplish that, don't suffer through improper brake balance for it. It's better to have too much front balance, since at least that's stable. Too much rear can easily lead to a spin.

beware of cheap slotted/crossdrilled rotors. they will crack/split. bigger brakes are only as good as the tires that stick to the road. spend more money on tires and just rebuild the stock brakes like said before. you should be pretty happy with the results. i learned the hard way.