i dont know, to ****** cold to check compression, i did drive it and the rear rotor will not start up,im home and its at my friends house thats 15 miles away and its on empty. and those engines at revolutionrotary are looking pretty good right about now https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

hey, don't rule out T.P.S.!!! I had my Throttle Position Sensor go out and it did what you are talking about, and also never gave me a "Check engine light" make sure the tps is in range, when your car overheated it could have messed with the tps. Also keep in mind E.C.U., coil(both rotors), wires, ect. but you know that.



A flooded engine will act like a blown engine sometimes and if your tps is out of range it can flood your engine!



As for the oil pressure thing... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif



how does it smell at idle??? A strong stink of unused gas???



hope I could be of some help!



P.S. check u'r codes! :bigthumg:

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Ok, if your reading zero oil pressure, you either have no oil in the sump, or the pressure sender for the guage is flaky (very likely.) Oil pumps on rotaries dont go bad. And popping an apex seal wont do **** do the oil pressure. So you have multiple probs my friend. For all we know, your motor could be just fine. And 2, dont worry about the OMP, the mechanical ones dont fail other than leaking externally. It has nothing to do with oil pressure either.

what he said.





check your compression on both rotors before you go making assumptions, also you might want to put some MMO in the combustion chambers before you do your test in case you have unburned fuel in the chambers, it will wash away all the oil and cause poor compression, and if it sits corrosion will set in.



good luck, don't freeze https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png it's been in the -10 - +10 range here in IL last few days, just crazy ass weather. wind chills make it feel like tundra.

thank you for all your help, i really appreciate it, i had no clue about the tps sensor, i hope to god im that lucky, i dont have a chance to look at it until sunday becasue of work(damnit,lol)



can some one tell me how to tune it the tps sensor? in the past 2 months or so i have had to mess with the idle to keep it running right, so the tps sounds like the best explanation at the moment, i have a haynes manual , but i figure someone here could tell me a better way and/or tell me what not to do, thank you for all the help i'll keep you posted,later



my car also smells like unused gas but i have all my cats hollowed out as well but if i recall correctly i did smell more than i usually smelled, also my car idled funny after i changed my spark plugs about 8,000 miles ago, could,hope its something easy and not the worst, once again thanks for all the info :bigthumg:





SEMPER FI

I repeat, if your engine has flooded, don't leave it like that for extended periods without getting it running... the flooding will wash away the oil that protects the internal parts (apex/side/corner seals and rotors) from corrosion.



if you can't get it running, pour some MMO into the combustion chambers and crank it a bit and maybe add more, it will help prevent corrosion.



stuck apex seals will keep your **** from running, corrosion can cause that. I wouldnt take it for granted.

it siezed up after all this happened, isnt there also a oil thrermostat that controls the lubrication of the rotors as well? MMO is that atf fluid?

and when i crank it over should i take out all the spark plugs and pour it in and then crank it over? or pour it in put the plugs back in, leave the wires disconnected and crank it over?

i have no idea about what could be wrong just i feel ure pain man..i would be bummed out toooo kid..but i lack mehcanical knowledge but just wanna say bumer lol



jazerx7, nyc