my buddy has a 94 Si honda del sol, we decided to race, we raced and as i past him in forth gear and shifted into 5th, i looked down at my guages and my oil pressure was at zero, i immediately shut it down pushed the clutch in,costed to a stop,popped the hood and checked the oil, the oil was right on the full mark, no oil is leaking anywhere from my engine,not a drop, wtf? i start it back up and the oil pressure is normal at idle and at 60 mph. go back to my buddies house check everything out and while its idling it start to hesitate, so i shut it off check everything the best i could, oil is at the full mark, go to start it back up and the engine feels like its seized up, felt like the starter was stuck, finally started up and now its runing on one rotor, im not sure if its the front or rear rotor that isnt running, i drove it down the road and back and about **** myself, it felt like i had about 50 hp. now the question is after i shut it down the first time and started it back up it was fine until i shut it off at my friends house? what gives? i think its an apex seal,damnit! lol its about 8 degrees out of the wind so i didnt feel like ripping out the spark plugs out and checking to see if they apex seals are still there, prior to all of this the car overheated about 7 months ago because the thermostat started acting funny, so maybe the rotor housing warped and just decided to **** on me? car only has 92,000 miles on it now, 64,000 when i bought it. thanks for reading all this and for the info, later



SEMPER FI

maybe something came unhooked,wire/vacuum line? i dunno? lost compression? please help,lol https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/violin.gif

If you got the car to start back up your front rotor is fine.. for some reason a rotary will run without the rear rotor.. (hense mine wouldn't run when i blew the front *doh* ) That's weird that you lost oil pressure though... like oil pump failure yet it was fine after you started again.. hehe yea check all your vacuum lines.. make sure your OMP is working

OMP? i dont know that abreviation? it thats not working it wont run right?

Did you check compression?

That sucks man..

maybe (cuz I've had similar probs.).....



#1 the oil pressure sender wire can (and will/might) get loose and make a shitty connection.

(you might not have really lost oil pressure at all I believe)

#2 the rear rotors seem to get coolant seal leaks (I have a '83 and a '86 whithrear coolant seal leak probs.) and this will cause the rear rotor (usually rear) to not start initially but eventually after a few seconds to a couple mins.



check to see if your overflow bottle for the radiator is bubbling more than usual if so thats exaust gas from the rear rotor blowing backwards into the water jacket through the leak.



sorry



I hope I'm wrong.

what is OMP?????

oil metering pump? I think...

yeah your right thats what it is.

The omp(oil metering pump) squrts oil into the intake air streem to lubricate the rotors.

i dont know, to ****** cold to check compression, i did drive it and the rear rotor will not start up,im home and its at my friends house thats 15 miles away and its on empty. and those engines at revolutionrotary are looking pretty good right about now https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif

hey, don't rule out T.P.S.!!! I had my Throttle Position Sensor go out and it did what you are talking about, and also never gave me a "Check engine light" make sure the tps is in range, when your car overheated it could have messed with the tps. Also keep in mind E.C.U., coil(both rotors), wires, ect. but you know that.



A flooded engine will act like a blown engine sometimes and if your tps is out of range it can flood your engine!



As for the oil pressure thing... https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif



how does it smell at idle??? A strong stink of unused gas???



hope I could be of some help!



P.S. check u'r codes! :bigthumg:

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https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif ((((((((Pineapple Streetport)))))))) https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683894.gif

Ok, if your reading zero oil pressure, you either have no oil in the sump, or the pressure sender for the guage is flaky (very likely.) Oil pumps on rotaries dont go bad. And popping an apex seal wont do **** do the oil pressure. So you have multiple probs my friend. For all we know, your motor could be just fine. And 2, dont worry about the OMP, the mechanical ones dont fail other than leaking externally. It has nothing to do with oil pressure either.

what he said.





check your compression on both rotors before you go making assumptions, also you might want to put some MMO in the combustion chambers before you do your test in case you have unburned fuel in the chambers, it will wash away all the oil and cause poor compression, and if it sits corrosion will set in.



good luck, don't freeze https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png it's been in the -10 - +10 range here in IL last few days, just crazy ass weather. wind chills make it feel like tundra.

thank you for all your help, i really appreciate it, i had no clue about the tps sensor, i hope to god im that lucky, i dont have a chance to look at it until sunday becasue of work(damnit,lol)



can some one tell me how to tune it the tps sensor? in the past 2 months or so i have had to mess with the idle to keep it running right, so the tps sounds like the best explanation at the moment, i have a haynes manual , but i figure someone here could tell me a better way and/or tell me what not to do, thank you for all the help i'll keep you posted,later



my car also smells like unused gas but i have all my cats hollowed out as well but if i recall correctly i did smell more than i usually smelled, also my car idled funny after i changed my spark plugs about 8,000 miles ago, could,hope its something easy and not the worst, once again thanks for all the info :bigthumg:





SEMPER FI

I repeat, if your engine has flooded, don't leave it like that for extended periods without getting it running... the flooding will wash away the oil that protects the internal parts (apex/side/corner seals and rotors) from corrosion.



if you can't get it running, pour some MMO into the combustion chambers and crank it a bit and maybe add more, it will help prevent corrosion.



stuck apex seals will keep your **** from running, corrosion can cause that. I wouldnt take it for granted.

it siezed up after all this happened, isnt there also a oil thrermostat that controls the lubrication of the rotors as well? MMO is that atf fluid?

and when i crank it over should i take out all the spark plugs and pour it in and then crank it over? or pour it in put the plugs back in, leave the wires disconnected and crank it over?

i have no idea about what could be wrong just i feel ure pain man..i would be bummed out toooo kid..but i lack mehcanical knowledge but just wanna say bumer lol



jazerx7, nyc

hey that sucks, yeah its cold as ****, i just did an oil change in like -10 below. beeeerrr! A garage and heater are a must, this was a friends car we did. First what you need to do is get a damn compression test before you do anything else.

will a normal piston engine compression guage work or do i need a mazda only one? yes this does suck, i dont even really beat on my car either,lol damnit :bigthumg:

you can use a piston one, you just have to remove the schroeder(sp?) valve.

sweet casue i actually have one of those,lol thanks for the info man

i'd hate to do one in this weather, it's a bitch to reach the spark plugs let alone remove them and install the compression tester.



also make an effort to count the 'spikes' while you crank it over a known time period so you can calculate the RPM of your compression test. IIRC you take the # of spikes over 15 seconds, and multiply by 4 (to make it a minute) and thats your rpm.



rotor rotates 1/3 the eccentric shaft rate, 3 sides to the rotor, so each spike maps to 1 eccentric shaft rotation... since you are only checking one rotor at a time, so it's easy to just do it for 15 second long and count it, should be easy anyways, not blistering fast. The RPM greatly effects the expected #'s of your compression test.

:bigok: :bigthumg: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/boink.gif ok, i just got that, lol , i do understand it though, yes it gonna suck in this weather but my spark plugs are easy to get too, i have no power steering or air conditioning, i ripped all that out and the bracket they were attached too, i really appreciate all the time you people are taking to help me out, no one else around here could even remotely give me this much info you all did in the past hour, thank you, later and keep posting if you know something i dont or something that would help

rock on, I love working on my FC with no AC or PS :bigok:



my friends TurboII pisses me off whenever I have to touch it, no room to even put your hand somewhere.



good luck! don't freeze your nuts!

hey, how can i check the and recalibrate the TPS sensor? also in the haynes manual is the TPS sensor referred to as the pressure sensor, if im correct its the sensor located by the air flow meter on the passenger side? thanks again

Negative, the thing near the AFM is the MAP/Boost sensor.



The TPS == Throttle Position Sensor, it is on the throttle body.



There are a few ways to calibrate it, one involves a visit to radio shack and some LED's and connectors, the other involves a multimeter.



http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html



that explains the multimeter way, theres another article out there that explains the LED way, but I have to hurry up here at work and go home, wife is draggin me out. (shes my ride)

kewl, thanks man,piece :bigthumg:

did a compression test, no apex seals at all on the rear rotor,the front front has perfect compression, guess im fucked,lol

Well now you know what you gotta do.

yes and no,lol ideas?

hey man, it still may not be as bad as you think!!! She may not have blown!!! Have you ever heard of a washed housing? It's when for some reason wether it be the T.P.S. or ecu or o2sensor goes out it can send too much fuel to a rotor and wash with carbon and gas, and it can act blown. It will actually give you no compression on that rotor and make you think you blew the seals, when indeed they may be fine.



Here is what I think. your T.P.S. or 02s, or the fuel injector relays on the ecu went out. This can wash the housing with carbon and gas and give you no compression reading on the rotor. If you blew a apex seal you should have 2 spikes on the testor, telling you one went out, get it? So when it gave you no reading on the rear rotor it may be just because it's washed.



Here is what you can do, take a plug out and with a eye droper, drop in a few drops of automatic transmission fluid on each face of the rotor, turn the engine with a wrench on the underdrive pulley. Then put the plug in and fire her up!!! It will burn so hot that it will get rid of the carbon and burn the unused gas, then do your compression test. Sometimes that's all it is!



hope I could be of some help, sorry about the spelling i'm doing 100 things at once!!!



later,

-Matt