jwteknix

his exact words were

"oh. my bad bro, are u ok?"

me

"no i just broke my arm"

him

"damn bro" broads away

some one else find me asks if i could get down the mountainhe got me a medic and they snowmobiled me down to the first aid spot

me

"no, i just broke my arm"

medic

"oh its probly not broken just spraned"

me

"no i felt it snap right over my wrist guard"

medic

"oh"

they thought I was milking it cuz I wasnt crying

then had to find my friends to drive me and my car to the hospital an hour away

jwteknix

so I was just going over the stuff that im going to need for the rebuild. so i went to mazdatrix to start pricing out my build I found a full gasket set 300 bux and the rotor kits like 1300 but is that just a stock kit? arent there REW seals or springs that would be considered an upgrade? what about apex seals? I was looking into goopy. anyhelp from you guys would be awsome. im back to being a noob lol

thanks

james

__________________

thatpoorguy

Bummer deal man :/ my rebuild was expensive but I had it ported and converted to single turbo and a jdm trans swap.

jwteknix

i looked thru the exhaust ports and saw no damage in there if I just cracked a seal could I just put in new ones and reassemble it with all new gaskets?

thatpoorguy

Depends man, when they tore mine apart they found that the housings were cracking around the spark plug holes. You never really know how bad it is till you get into it unfortunately.

thatpoorguy

Originally I thought I had just popped the twins....again lol my seals were good amazingly but the housings were toast. The seals were

All replaced though of course as part of the rebuild. How are you checking the compression btw? I thought you had to have a stupid expensive rotary specific tester

jwteknix

The motor is realitivly fresh 10-15k miles on it, pre mixed, oil changed every 1500-3000miles. Prior to this all rotor faces over 100psi. I shouldnt have a problem with my housings being I still have over 100psi on that one face Im hoping that I just cracked a seal.

checking compression with a regular compression tester w/o the shrader valve in

rotorjeff

Dear James:



With a turbo, detonation is much more likely. You should invest in a knock retard with the rebuild. I had two 1991's and a 1994 rebuilt. Then i found that it is about the same or cheaper to just buy a rebuilt engine from Bonzai or Pettit Racing and send them your core.



J&S used to sell a knock retard device called a Vampire. It is a one man show in Southern California. It retards the timing when detonation is likely. I have one on my rebuilt 3rd gen with efini twins.



Regards,



Jeff

jwteknix

yes what looking it to this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Knock...Q5fCarQ5fParts



looking in to the RA superseals and springs mihght just buy everything there anyone using there stuff have opinions on it?

jwteknix

also wondering how to use a 5 gallon bucket instead of purchasing a engine mount for the stand. Do u just drop the nose in and start unstacking? should i expect things exploding or pooping out when I open it?

also what tools will i need for checking clearances and seal specs?