Big Brakes
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: One hour north of chicago (Mundelein to be exact)
Posts: 811
BTW, kind of a side note. How much louder does it get in the interior of your car without the carpeting and insulation and ****? I've heard people complain how shitty it is and wish they had never done it but maybe it is worth the reduced weight?
#12
Originally Posted by Redwood' date='Jan 30 2004, 01:13 AM
Well, I don't really have any ideas, but I do have my opinion
What problems are you experiencing with your brakes right now? I have TII calipers, braided lines, semi-metallic pads, and (perhaps most important) a well-bled system. Every braking attempt I've made, be it autocross or street, has resulted in rapid acceleration to any speed my heart desired. Are you doing this for the performance gain or to do it (I respect both, don't get me wrong)?
Redwood
#37 CSP
What problems are you experiencing with your brakes right now? I have TII calipers, braided lines, semi-metallic pads, and (perhaps most important) a well-bled system. Every braking attempt I've made, be it autocross or street, has resulted in rapid acceleration to any speed my heart desired. Are you doing this for the performance gain or to do it (I respect both, don't get me wrong)?
Redwood
#37 CSP
#13
That's a good point about filling out the rim, I hadn't thought of that. It would be cool and I hope you can figure something out for it.
As for the interior thing, I'd say remove all the carpet first, then use dry ice to get out all the sound deadening. Then return the carpet (it's not the heaviest part). This should net you about 30 pounds of weight savings with minimal degredation of the interior (I'll be damned if I've ever pulled the carpet without breaking something). It'll get a bit louder, but it won't be unbearable.
As for the interior thing, I'd say remove all the carpet first, then use dry ice to get out all the sound deadening. Then return the carpet (it's not the heaviest part). This should net you about 30 pounds of weight savings with minimal degredation of the interior (I'll be damned if I've ever pulled the carpet without breaking something). It'll get a bit louder, but it won't be unbearable.
#14
If you make a spacer, whatever you do, make sure the pads touch the right area on the rotor and not too far on the outer edge. I still dont think its possible to go much larger but I am curious to see the result.
#15
Originally Posted by Travis R' date='Jan 30 2004, 01:55 PM
The 4 piston dynalites? Which version? I'm guessing the billet dynalites. What piston size? And do you think it'll throw off the brake balance F/R?
I'm considering using those calipers in the front on the stock disks, and stock rear brakes with new tandem master cylinders (no booster).
I'm curious about the pedal effort. My calculations right now have it at less than 100 lbs for max braking.
I'm considering using those calipers in the front on the stock disks, and stock rear brakes with new tandem master cylinders (no booster).
I'm curious about the pedal effort. My calculations right now have it at less than 100 lbs for max braking.
this is one of em:
#16
if you do hack in your own 'big brakes', make sure they're well engineered.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...25&pagenumber=1
imo (working) stock TII brakes are very very good (they are the same as the FD's if i'm not mistaken), and a bigger rotor is just more unsprung weight and more rotating mass to accelerate.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...25&pagenumber=1
imo (working) stock TII brakes are very very good (they are the same as the FD's if i'm not mistaken), and a bigger rotor is just more unsprung weight and more rotating mass to accelerate.
#17
Originally Posted by ikrazygluebrokenapexseals' date='Jan 30 2004, 09:31 PM
if you do hack in your own 'big brakes', make sure they're well engineered.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...25&pagenumber=1
imo (working) stock TII brakes are very very good (they are the same as the FD's if i'm not mistaken), and a bigger rotor is just more unsprung weight and more rotating mass to accelerate.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...25&pagenumber=1
imo (working) stock TII brakes are very very good (they are the same as the FD's if i'm not mistaken), and a bigger rotor is just more unsprung weight and more rotating mass to accelerate.
and aluminum hats all around wouldnt hurt
#18
Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Jan 30 2004, 01:41 PM
and aluminum hats all around wouldnt hurt
maybe this supplier would be up for a group buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=2978448779
#20
Originally Posted by ikrazygluebrokenapexseals' date='Jan 30 2004, 09:46 PM
agreed.
maybe this supplier would be up for a group buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=2978448779
maybe this supplier would be up for a group buy?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...item=2978448779