GMON

Castrol SRF Brake Fluid - DOT 4 motor vehicle brake fluid suitable for use in all disc and

drum brake systems - wet boiling point of 270 deg. C (518 deg. F)



http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf.htm



Its not too hard to make a big break setup. Buy some rotors that fit our bolt pattern, Buy some calipers that fit the rotors and have enough space left over to clear the wheel, and last but not least weld up a bracket to bolt them to.



Thing is if your adding fluid you need a bigger master and proportioning valve. The math may hurt a bit.



I dont see any reason to do the backs other than vanity. Lets face it, they just dont get hot enough.



I seriously dont buy your break fade related to size issue. I think somethins fuked with your setup. Ive beat the holy christ out of my car for extended periods of time and never had a problem other than my pads being perminantly glazed when I was done for the day.



Again, new fluid and pads at every event. Even if you get bigger calipers.



Buddy of mine put a set of these on his 240, just take the hat, caliper and spindle to someone who can make a bracket for you and your good to go.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-6-P...020581499QQrdZ1

RONIN FC

rear 4-pots should give you a little better brake modulation than the very compliant floating calipers in the rear. But no, you prolly wont see much of an increse in braking.







And of course, your gonna need an adjustable proportioning valve to get a good bias. Stock valve will be off if you start mix-matching calipers.

pbrx7

for the guy who bought the ebay rotors, would you buy them again? how long have you had them and how are they holding up? im looking at completly redoing my brakes and as always, am on a tight budget. are those rotors a savings, or will they have to be replaced more often?



on the big brake issue, i agree with the guy who said tires stop a car, not the brakes. im sure the bigger brakes will help but is the upgrade worth the cost. all the big brake kits ive seen are upwards of $1500 for two calipers, two rotors, and two shiny brake lines. thats pretty ridiculous in my book. im sure you could rival the performance of these brakes by replacing stock componants (ie: brake lines, pads, good rotors, etc) with performance parts and get the fade to go away. you could also look at removing some weight off your car if your thinking of autocrossing. that will help. let the flaming begin!



just my opinion, good luck with whatever way you decide to go.

nismo convert

You would trust a weld on your braking system? YOu're a brave man, how do you know the integrity of the weld? you want to use a one piece machined part, expensive yes, but much stronger, and safer.

j9fd3s

the k2 ones were a big piece of steel with holes drilled into it, no welding

banzaitoyota

The liability issues associated with producing a BBK for sale to the public are tremendous.

inanimate_object

I can imagine that, mine have "not for street use" stamped on them.



Mark

One320B

That's funny..those porsche 6pot are the same ones i'm using for my FC,lol...damn 240 guy....

One320B

Lol, at least somebody knew the technicality!





But yea, I'm aware you can't use it in a DOT3/4 system.. I was curious if anybody had used 5(5.1) before in a track car or other.... wasn't really thinking of using DOT5.1, i'm not willing to risk thrashing $750 calipers by accidentally leaving the fluid cap off, or line undone so moisture can get in DOT5..separate and corrode,lol...I'll stick w/ DOT4. There is a new kind out that was in the recent issue of modified mag..I'll have to dig them up again..i think it had a higher boiling point than 270d....

fc3s4utnv

I bought ebay rotors for my MX-3, they were brembo blanks that the company has machined themselves. The car gets "spirited" driving at best, but it has a woman driver, so you know the brakes are going threw hell. The rotors have held up well, they have aobut 10k on them, no problems what so ever.