2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Anyone Want To Help The Newbie Out?

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Old 11-04-2003, 10:27 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pazuzu' date='Nov 4 2003, 11:17 AM
The fact is, there is alot of power hidden in the 13B that can be used with some minor basic mods (the classics, intake, exhaust, and the list of stuff in the FAQ). With those mods, and good driving, and good tires, you could take a NA RX-7 and beat most any stocker. These mods are on the order of $500 complete.



The RX-7 has some of the best handling out there. Period. Learn to drive it to it's limits, and you can whip porshes in the twisties. First, they had excellent weight distribution. Second, good strong RWD. Third, a truely linear torque curve. Forth, high RPMs.



So, you can sit in a lower gear, keep the revs up where the engine is happy, and have power on demand (no emergency downshifts for power in the curves). When you enter a curve, you're powered from behind and the weight distribution keeps things flat. No kick out in the turn. Then, since the torque curve is so easy to guess, you'll learn exactly when to get into it when exiting the curve, there is no power bumps or flat spots to fool with you.
Good post. I think the FC's handling capabilities sometimes get lost in the straight line acceleration.. or lack of it. I think the FC (even the stock T2's) LOOK a lot faster than they are.
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Old 11-04-2003, 12:47 PM
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God do i love FC T2s there just so sexy.... PEACE
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Old 11-04-2003, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pazuzu' date='Nov 4 2003, 07:17 AM
The fact is, there is alot of power hidden in the 13B that can be used with some minor basic mods (the classics, intake, exhaust, and the list of stuff in the FAQ). With those mods, and good driving, and good tires, you could take a NA RX-7 and beat most any stocker. These mods are on the order of $500 complete.



The RX-7 has some of the best handling out there. Period. Learn to drive it to it's limits, and you can whip porshes in the twisties. First, they had excellent weight distribution. Second, good strong RWD. Third, a truely linear torque curve. Forth, high RPMs.



So, you can sit in a lower gear, keep the revs up where the engine is happy, and have power on demand (no emergency downshifts for power in the curves). When you enter a curve, you're powered from behind and the weight distribution keeps things flat. No kick out in the turn. Then, since the torque curve is so easy to guess, you'll learn exactly when to get into it when exiting the curve, there is no power bumps or flat spots to fool with you.
Wow! Nicely said! You guys are starting to win me over (mixed with me being PISSED at my car now )! Could someone PLEASE tell me the g-pad #s of a GLX? I did'nt get to see the car today, I took my car to rebuild the alternator in auto tech, we ended up taking over 4hrs and It would'nt go back in right!!! So I had to call my dad to pick me up . I hope to get it fixed by tommrow! I had the camera and all... Oh well, such is life! This brings to a rather imporant question, how hard is the RX-7 to work on?I hope is'nt not as much as a Pain in the @SS as the fiero!!! You got to almost pull the engine to do any work to it!!! GRRRR!!!! And the engingeers put allinum and steel together alot (bad combo, they will rather quickly try to chemical bond together, making it near impossible to remove or reinstall the two things!). Thx guys!
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Old 11-04-2003, 06:43 PM
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Ok, I've been DROOLING and all over the pics at the top of the page (all 7m pages), And I've collected the links of pictures of the cars so I can KINDA give a better description, seince I can't figure out how to post a pic right (and there are too many for one post I think). Here you go guys, see what you can get out of this, first, it's white, lol.



BODY:

Front: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/uploads/po...-1057094814.jpg

Rear/Tail lights: https://www.nopistons.com/forums/uploads/po...-1064441332.jpg



INTERIOR:

Rear: http://www.attak.net/cloead/rx7/0013.JPG

Side: http://www.attak.net/cloead/rx7/0014.JPG



Wheels:

(I think these are factory, if not, they look the same): http://www.nfimports.net/forums/uploads/po...-1056756461.jpg



I hope SOMEONE can get SOMETHING out of this!
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:00 PM
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s4, s5 tails, GTU wheels?
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:05 PM
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you should go with the rx-7. they make for a good project car. and are very fun. like everyone said they have lots of hidden power to be extracted with easy mods. you can go with the 13bt, t2 engine, the 13b-rew thats twin turbo from the 3rd gen. 13b-re, from the cosmo and the 20b also from the cosmo. all it takes is thinking and some money. the more money you put in the better the results. the fc body style can be made to look very good. You must remember they crave fuel. what most cars use for large injectors rx-7's use for primary injectors. ie 550 or 610s are large for hondas talons evos subies etc...those are small for RX-7's you will not be sorry with it. but like may of us you will while building it.
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Old 11-04-2003, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Leetheslacker' date='Nov 4 2003, 05:00 PM
s4, s5 tails, GTU wheels?
I just realized that the front is a little diffrent then that. But that IS the EXACT tail! and it's got that cool "turbo" spoiler too ! And yeah, those exact rims. I don't know what S4 and S5 mean, lol. Yeah, THE determining factor to wether I get it will be the price, my dad has a little to do with it (if he'll actually let me). And the price of an engine...How hard are they to rebuild? I've never rebuilt an engine, just wondering if there is a how to on it. Road couse and Autocross performance are ALOT bigger to me then 1/4 mile times (Which is why I'm BEGGING for the g-pad #). Everything about them is growing on me, plus noticing first had some of the big disadvantages of piston engines and how little about rotterys my dad says is true (he's the "old school muscle car" type...more displacement is the ONLY power, hince why he hates RX-7s with only 1.3L, lol...too bad the out put stock can beat several 4.0L and higher engines!)! I'll keep you all posted on what I do.



So you can swap one of the Twin turbo 13b's into it with no fabrication? How much is the twin set up? HOW MUCH work is involved in this? Thx guys!



edit: and does anyone know where I could get a vented Carbon Fiber hood? Or if they even make them? Don't get me wrong, I'm NOT a ricer! I just like Carbon Fiber, and that's something they make nothing of for my fiero (several people have been claiming they are going to...but never any results)!



What kind of #'s could I expect with a TII and a Twin turbo 13b? thx! Oh, and are rottery's allinum?
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Old 11-04-2003, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Razor_Wing' date='Nov 4 2003, 04:20 PM
This brings to a rather imporant question, how hard is the RX-7 to work on?I hope is'nt not as much as a Pain in the @SS as the fiero!!! You got to almost pull the engine to do any work to it!!! GRRRR!!!!
Working on a Seven is give and take. Fact is, the rotary engine will run (poorly) with most of the engine broken, so you can always limp home.

The engine is a fraction of the bay, so it's easy to access any part. The problem is, most of the important guts are UNDER the intake, which is a big heavy three piece assembly. So, you'll become an expert at pulling the intake (which is the throttle body (TB), dynamic chamber (DC) upper and lower intake manifolds (UIM and LIM). It's a PITA the first time or two, but once you get all of the bolts and vacuum lines memorized, it takes about 30 minutes to tear down.



Rebuilding a 13B is easier than a piston engine, because there are so few parts. However, anything you might know (or people around you know) about piston rebuilds is 100% useless, so tell them to get lost and do it yourself.
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Old 11-04-2003, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Pazuzu' date='Nov 4 2003, 09:15 PM
Rebuilding a 13B is easier than a piston engine, because there are so few parts. However, anything you might know (or people around you know) about piston rebuilds is 100% useless, so tell them to get lost and do it yourself.
since i build piston race motors for a living and rebuild/fabricate stuff for both types of motors on the side, i find that statement totally untrue. Especially with porting and understanding retard/advance. If you have cam timing down to an exact science, you can port a 13b very well. With exellent flow characteristics down low and up top. Ignition systems and timing are the same contrary to popular belief. And a fuel map for a fuel injected chevy V8 look the same as a fuel map for a turbo 13b



It looks like if you buy this car, you'll have a big project on your hands. Getting a car without a motor is a mistake in my opinion. You dont know what goes where and if you a missing parts for the management systems and emissions control, your screwed. I suggest you get a car with a motor, running or not in it





As for skidpad numbers, i think it was in the .85g-.90g range off the showroom floor. With good tyres and an agressive alignment you can very close to 1g.



And to answer the 12A turbo question, there was one in japan
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Old 11-04-2003, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Nov 4 2003, 06:46 PM
since i build piston race motors for a living and rebuild/fabricate stuff for both types of motors on the side, i find that statement totally untrue. Especially with porting and understanding retard/advance. If you have cam timing down to an exact science, you can port a 13b very well. With exellent flow characteristics down low and up top. Ignition systems and timing are the same contrary to popular belief. And a fuel map for a fuel injected chevy V8 look the same as a fuel map for a turbo 13b



It looks like if you buy this car, you'll have a big project on your hands. Getting a car without a motor is a mistake in my opinion. You dont know what goes where and if you a missing parts for the management systems and emissions control, your screwed. I suggest you get a car with a motor, running or not in it





As for skidpad numbers, i think it was in the .85g-.90g range off the showroom floor. With good tyres and an agressive alignment you can very close to 1g.



And to answer the 12A turbo question, there was one in japan
Thx man! That was REALLY REALLY helpful!!! Thx! Yeah, it would be qute a project, lol. I agree that getting a car WITH an engine would be more helpful and better, but there's just....something about this car that....I don't know.... The guy that owns the car also has a Burgendy SE just on the other side of the gas station that is GOOD, but auto. I might ask if I could look at that or buy it or something and use it as a "Model" to where everything goes, lol. Plus with no engine = cheaper. And I'm 17, I don't exactly have money pooring out, lol. But one thing that you said that confused me, what 12A question...? you are currently the god of rotterys to me (other then Dr. Wankel, lol) !
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