Any Ideas Guys?
#22
I did notice a really odd clank, clank, clank coming up through the exhaust, but figured it was the backfires.
I hope it is not a blown motor, cause I don't have the space nor the money for it at this time. But from your example, is what happened exactly to me.
Thanks all.
I hope it is not a blown motor, cause I don't have the space nor the money for it at this time. But from your example, is what happened exactly to me.
Thanks all.
#23
Justin, I heard it tonight while yoiu guys tried to get it ruinning. I also hate to say it man but she sounded like she was running on one rotor.
Compression test it already!!! Do this, take the plugs out of the rear rotor and turn the engine over, have yoiur pops hold is hand over the holes to feel for compressed air shooting out. If there is no realy air to speak of then you need to rebuild it. If it is blown then you need to figure out what your plan is. Don't ask me how the **** you managned to blow a seal in a N/A. So long as the internals are not to bad off you could rebuild and not break the bank. Or you can just give it to me.
Compression test it already!!! Do this, take the plugs out of the rear rotor and turn the engine over, have yoiur pops hold is hand over the holes to feel for compressed air shooting out. If there is no realy air to speak of then you need to rebuild it. If it is blown then you need to figure out what your plan is. Don't ask me how the **** you managned to blow a seal in a N/A. So long as the internals are not to bad off you could rebuild and not break the bank. Or you can just give it to me.
#24
Also, I was thinking today. How long did you actually drive the car with the oil pressure down? When that hose poped off, if you drove it for maybe a 1/4 mile even that would certainly explain why your engine is now failing.
#25
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Jun 15 2004, 03:17 PM
Also, I was thinking today. How long did you actually drive the car with the oil pressure down? When that hose poped off, if you drove it for maybe a 1/4 mile even that would certainly explain why your engine is now failing.
I probably drove about 30 miles or more that one night when the oil cooler line bursted, but I was under the speed limit by like 20mph. But that does not matter now does it.
And I can afford a new seal kit, but I just don't have the space to really do it, no engine stand(Dave?????), or knowledge(Dave????).
I think if I need a rebuilt engine, I will of course replace everything, minus the internals, make sure they are okay, have Dave help me port the motor, throw a Haltech in there and cat back and header and be ready for rotorfest. HA!!! I wish.
Thanks for the help guys. Appreciated.
I will post the compression test numbers tonight if I do it, and see what you all think. Should it be above like 6:1 or 7:1? If it is above those on all three pulses I am okay right?
#26
Originally Posted by RowTarEh?' date='Jun 16 2004, 12:52 PM
Hmmm. Going to compression test it tonight and see what is up with it. It did sound like it was running on one rotor, because I remember rikki saying something about it sounding like a UFO when running on one rotor. I do know that I did put paper towels over the plug holes when I turned it over with the EGI fuse out, that the paper towels flew out, of course, but does not tell me I have great compression.
I probably drove about 30 miles or more that one night when the oil cooler line bursted, but I was under the speed limit by like 20mph. But that does not matter now does it.
And I can afford a new seal kit, but I just don't have the space to really do it, no engine stand(Dave?????), or knowledge(Dave????).
I think if I need a rebuilt engine, I will of course replace everything, minus the internals, make sure they are okay, have Dave help me port the motor, throw a Haltech in there and cat back and header and be ready for rotorfest. HA!!! I wish.
Thanks for the help guys. Appreciated.
I will post the compression test numbers tonight if I do it, and see what you all think. Should it be above like 6:1 or 7:1? If it is above those on all three pulses I am okay right?
I probably drove about 30 miles or more that one night when the oil cooler line bursted, but I was under the speed limit by like 20mph. But that does not matter now does it.
And I can afford a new seal kit, but I just don't have the space to really do it, no engine stand(Dave?????), or knowledge(Dave????).
I think if I need a rebuilt engine, I will of course replace everything, minus the internals, make sure they are okay, have Dave help me port the motor, throw a Haltech in there and cat back and header and be ready for rotorfest. HA!!! I wish.
Thanks for the help guys. Appreciated.
I will post the compression test numbers tonight if I do it, and see what you all think. Should it be above like 6:1 or 7:1? If it is above those on all three pulses I am okay right?
#28
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Jun 16 2004, 08:30 PM
You just want three consistant surges on each rotor. So long as they are above 5psi you still should technically be ok. That is if they are close to each other. If the front rotor pulls 8's and the rear pulls 5's that is no good. If you need to rebuild it I can help you pull it, (dont know when but wont be until after rotorfest) I cannot store yur car though. You will have to pull it at your house and I can rebuild the engine in my shop. I will rebuild it for you for free so long as you buy me some beer and pay for your own parts. Porting, I can if you want but keep in mind that I am no tuner (yet hopefully) and you will need alot more mods than you have now to benefit from larger ports. BTW you blew yoru engine driving with no oil. You should have stopped the car immediately and had it towed home. Now you need a rebuild because you drove on it. Food for thought.
#30
Sorry guys, I was busy last night and tonight. Will be done tomorrow for sure though.
If it does need a rebuild I would like to do it after Rotorfest of course, but before the Maryland BBQ. It would really be cutting the time, and I would have to rush on it.
What else would I need to do the port job? I figured an ECU, and maybe a header? But that would only be if I was porting the exhaust. But I would be porting the air intake, so I would wanna port the exhaust ports. Damn!! Having a car is fun and expensive. I will see what goes on.
Ummm. What else would I really need? The ECU of course, maybe some stronger coolant seals(teflon junx), and I hope I won't need new Apex Seals. Those are expensive. Or do they come with seal kits?
I would like to just scrap that 6-port motor and throw a turbo into there, but drivetrain would need to be upgrade, an S4 or S5 TII block, TII ECU(or Haltech). That would be too much work though.
I wanna rebuild it, get it back to good running condition, do all the things I have skipped, and sell it then buy a TII, or an FD(dreaming on the FD)
If it does need a rebuild I would like to do it after Rotorfest of course, but before the Maryland BBQ. It would really be cutting the time, and I would have to rush on it.
What else would I need to do the port job? I figured an ECU, and maybe a header? But that would only be if I was porting the exhaust. But I would be porting the air intake, so I would wanna port the exhaust ports. Damn!! Having a car is fun and expensive. I will see what goes on.
Ummm. What else would I really need? The ECU of course, maybe some stronger coolant seals(teflon junx), and I hope I won't need new Apex Seals. Those are expensive. Or do they come with seal kits?
I would like to just scrap that 6-port motor and throw a turbo into there, but drivetrain would need to be upgrade, an S4 or S5 TII block, TII ECU(or Haltech). That would be too much work though.
I wanna rebuild it, get it back to good running condition, do all the things I have skipped, and sell it then buy a TII, or an FD(dreaming on the FD)