Air flow meter
#1
I believe i have a bad air flow meter as when i start the car it fires right up then dies immediately. this is the diagram i have for testing it. Between E2 and Vc I'm supposed to have 200 ohms closed and 400 open well the reading is like 250 closed but doesn't change when the plate is opened. I'm guess this is why it shuts fuel off as it's not getting the signal... Well i ordered a used one and i have same reading across those pins. Any ever test one of these things? Its a freak $1200 part from the dealer and is half the cost of the car i can get a rebuild online for $300 I just want to drive it and havnt in the year i've owned it's just sat while getting put back together. Any help would be greatly appreciated
#2
did you try checking the other side pins? i'm always checking these things backwards
on the s5 afms, resistance starts @200ish, then goes up and comes down a little, dunno why, but it does work when you have the 5v signal across it
on the s5 afms, resistance starts @200ish, then goes up and comes down a little, dunno why, but it does work when you have the 5v signal across it
#3
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='924912' date='Jul 30 2009, 11:25 AM
did you try checking the other side pins? i'm always checking these things backwards
on the s5 afms, resistance starts @200ish, then goes up and comes down a little, dunno why, but it does work when you have the 5v signal across it
on the s5 afms, resistance starts @200ish, then goes up and comes down a little, dunno why, but it does work when you have the 5v signal across it
S5 AFM Plug
Turbo and Non Turbo
- E2 to Vc:
- plate closed: 200 ohms
- plate opened: 400 ohms
- plate closed: 200 ohms
- E2 to Vs
- plate closed: 200 - 1000 ohms
- plate opened: 20 - 800 ohms
- plate closed: 200 - 1000 ohms
#4
on the flap side there are three wires, there is a power ground and signal. if you measure power and signal, i think you get the right readings. if you measure power and ground it wont change and ground to signal wont work either
last time i checked an afm, i did put the voltmeter on the signal wire at the ecu. i think key on engine off, is about 5v, idle is 2.5ish and anything over 5000rpms is going to be about 0
or you can just push the thing by hand with the key on.
last time i checked an afm, i did put the voltmeter on the signal wire at the ecu. i think key on engine off, is about 5v, idle is 2.5ish and anything over 5000rpms is going to be about 0
or you can just push the thing by hand with the key on.
#5
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='924931' date='Jul 30 2009, 05:37 PM
on the flap side there are three wires, there is a power ground and signal. if you measure power and signal, i think you get the right readings. if you measure power and ground it wont change and ground to signal wont work either
last time i checked an afm, i did put the voltmeter on the signal wire at the ecu. i think key on engine off, is about 5v, idle is 2.5ish and anything over 5000rpms is going to be about 0
or you can just push the thing by hand with the key on.
last time i checked an afm, i did put the voltmeter on the signal wire at the ecu. i think key on engine off, is about 5v, idle is 2.5ish and anything over 5000rpms is going to be about 0
or you can just push the thing by hand with the key on.
I think you might be refering to an S4 AFM there are 5 wires to the S5 which is what i have the connector shown on the origional blog...i've never messed with the S4 one
#6
Originally Posted by rtrypwr98' post='924938' date='Jul 30 2009, 06:33 PM
I think you might be refering to an S4 AFM there are 5 wires to the S5 which is what i have the connector shown on the origional blog...i've never messed with the S4 one
#7
Originally Posted by rtrypwr98' post='924938' date='Jul 30 2009, 04:33 PM
I think you might be refering to an S4 AFM there are 5 wires to the S5 which is what i have the connector shown on the origional blog...i've never messed with the S4 one
right, s5 is the two temperature sensor wires, 5v power, ground and the signal. s4 adds the fuel pump switch, which is two more wires.
signal voltage @the ecu is really similar between s4/s5
#8
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='925004' date='Jul 31 2009, 04:08 PM
right, s5 is the two temperature sensor wires, 5v power, ground and the signal. s4 adds the fuel pump switch, which is two more wires.
signal voltage @the ecu is really similar between s4/s5
signal voltage @the ecu is really similar between s4/s5
Alright i will try measuring resistance with it hooked up and see if anything changes
#9
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='925004' date='Jul 31 2009, 04:08 PM
right, s5 is the two temperature sensor wires, 5v power, ground and the signal. s4 adds the fuel pump switch, which is two more wires.
signal voltage @the ecu is really similar between s4/s5
signal voltage @the ecu is really similar between s4/s5
do you know of anything else that would cause my car to start up go to 1500rpm for cold start up high idle and shut off immediately. I'm talking starts and shuts down in 2 sec.
#10
Originally Posted by rtrypwr98' post='925039' date='Jul 31 2009, 10:35 PM
do you know of anything else that would cause my car to start up go to 1500rpm for cold start up high idle and shut off immediately. I'm talking starts and shuts down in 2 sec.
on a t2? sounds like a bad turbo inlet duct... or big vacuum leak
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