SmokeScream

car had a bouncy idle and when i when for a quick drive check engine light started to flicker whenever i was on the throttle. i pulled codes and got 13 (pressure sensor) and 30 (split air valve). split air might be because some previous owner pulled out air pump and 6pi actuators. my concern right now is with the pressure sensor code. is the oe sensor vac line a hard plastic deal? mine isn't normal rubber vac line. also i saw something on a plastic restrictor pill that is supposed to be in the vac line. someone also said theirs did it when it was cold and had a cold air intake. any ideas?

j9fd3s

stock line is rubber, but its 20 years old so its not going to be soft.



they do have a restrictor in the line, ive seen OE hoses with a little white paint daub where the restrictor went.



also since you're in there, make sure the hose is going to the right place

SmokeScream

this hose doesnt even look like it was ever soft. looks more like the plastic fuel line from newer vehicles. going to test tps and pressure sensor tonight as well as check vac line routing. its been below -20 celcius here and no heat in shop, but has warmed up quite a bit

j9fd3s

yeah, i wouldnt touch the car either... it might be that its just so damn cold

SmokeScream

was decent last night, so went and played with car some more. adjusted tps and found another open vac line. replaced pressure sensor vac line and used carb jet for restrictor(there wasn't one in old vac line). idles when warm now, but drops to about 600 rpm when warm. gonna try adjusting idle tonight. just the screw on top of throttle body right? which way to turn screw for idle up?

RicerJ

i cant remember but i believe you tighten it in so if its a regular type screw and not a reverse type then right

j9fd3s

the screw sits in the idle air bleed passageway, so loosening it, pulls it out of the passage, and allows more air which should raise the idle