2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

89 Turbo II, need your opinions

Old May 9, 2006 | 08:11 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rx-7Drifter' post='818296' date='May 9 2006, 05:56 PM

if it hasnt been said befor i would take it to a fram shop and get htem to look at it they can tell you for sure. i had to replace my core support and get mine straightend after a lady ran out in front of me. and the spacing looks a little off but that could be because of the angle of hte pics.


mm, i want to do this, but my question is, do i do this before or after the sale? The owner should be able to handle this request if he has nothing to hide right?
Old May 9, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #22  
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you should do this BEFORE you by it. there is nothing worse than a unalignable car that eats tires. fixing the unibody is very expensive. i agree you should walk from this car. that is too much for a damaged(and probably abused) car with clutch problems (bleeding is probably not a permanent fix). there are alot better cars out there for that kind of money.
Old May 9, 2006 | 08:39 PM
  #23  
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the car has a rebuilt motor and turbo with warranty and paperwork. Should this be a factor in the decision or should i look for somethign with the original motor but in better exterior shape (i've found one).
Old May 9, 2006 | 08:47 PM
  #24  
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i personally would rather do mechanical work than bodywork. who rebuilt the engine? is the warrenty transferable to you?(most are not). also who installed the engine? the more hands that have touched a car the greater the chance something is fucked up. i would look for a low mileage unmolested car.
Old May 9, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #25  
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what kind of mileage is on the car? how is the interior? just taken a quick look on ebay and there are some decent turbo II's for well under 5000 and cars on ebay are usaully overpriced. i looked in the completed listings and there was a damn nice looking black one that sold for 2600
Old May 9, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #26  
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The chassis is at 130k miles. The motor is at 20k. The interior is not bad at all, though there is a rip on the driver's side seat. The engine was purchased from a shop (it was probably a rebuild) and the installation of said motor was done by the owner. As far as what they have told me, the warranty is transferrable.



I've been browsing ebay as well, but I can't seem to find an S5 turbo II for the life of me.
Old May 9, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Bunchies' post='818316' date='May 9 2006, 06:39 PM

the car has a rebuilt motor and turbo with warranty and paperwork. Should this be a factor in the decision or should i look for somethign with the original motor but in better exterior shape (i've found one).


it is a factor, but almost any idiot can replace an engine. the cosmetic/bodywork stuff is the hardest to get right, and also the most expensive.
Old May 9, 2006 | 09:54 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='818297' date='May 9 2006, 05:59 PM

Can you buy that rad support from brand new?


yep. pic is complex, you need to look at it
Old May 10, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' post='818343' date='May 9 2006, 10:54 PM

yep. pic is complex, you need to look at it


Is it pricey? I'm thinking of buying a fender and all the rad support stuff and dropping the car off at a good body shop and telling them to cut out all the hacked jobs other body shops have done to my car and installing the new rad support, fender and my feed lip.
Old May 11, 2006 | 09:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' post='818619' date='May 10 2006, 08:36 PM

Is it pricey? I'm thinking of buying a fender and all the rad support stuff and dropping the car off at a good body shop and telling them to cut out all the hacked jobs other body shops have done to my car and installing the new rad support, fender and my feed lip.


dealer cost is $240.... list is $400, but it doesnt include the bumper holder framus.



again you should look at the pic, its a little odd how they broke it down

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